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Birthday Presents 2016
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Mod: MTB Honey Badgers in a Demolisher
Quick post regarding the new MTB Honey Badgers. Mazofactory Grenade Pouch review will go live once I've combat tested them at MLF this Sunday, then Recon MkII and Worker flywheels at some point too.
MTB Honey Badgers are a 130 sized motor intended for use as a high speed RS pusher on 3S - getting about 14dps as opposed to Rhinos at about 9dps. Their specs however also suggest possibility for use as a 2S flywheel motor. I decided to try them in my Demolisher as I didn't want to bother with Blade 180s for it.
A quick diversion to the battery pack in question, the pack I use for the Demolisher and Elite Rayven is a Turnigy "Bolt", which is a high voltage Lithium pack (LiHV). They differ from traditional LiPos in that they are significantly thinner (this one is 11m thick) yet have a very high discharge rating (this 500mAh pack has 65C constant and 130C burst), but also are designed to be charged to a maximum of ~4.35V per cell, instead of 4.2V as with traditional LiPo. For my purposes, the extra voltage is unnecessary and actually potentially detrimental, but the discharge rating and size are very useful for fitting battery trays like that of the Demo and Elite Rayven.
The "ideal" flywheel motor speed is around 30-35kRPM without load, as it is high enough to maintain "glass ceiling" velocities (the maximum speed at which a standard single stage flywheeler can launch a full length dart), while not being so high as to introduce excessive noise, vibration and potential dart burning. The Blade 180 has a no load speed of ~32kRPM at 7.4V (pretty much perfect), while the "Banshee", another popular 2S motor, has a no load speed around 38.5kRPM, which is slightly higher than necessary. The MTB Honey Badger on the other hand, has a no load speed of ~43kRPM at 7.4V, which is way excessive for a flywheel motor. This is clearly noticeable upon revving, as the flywheels spin up to a much higher speed and make a massive amount of noise, far more than most popular flywheel motors like Blade 180s and Falcons/Rhinos, and even the already high speed Banshee, despite having roughly the same (perhaps a touch better) performance. They also take noticeably longer to slow to a stop if left to drift.
BlasterTech have a good video of actual numbers and firing:
MTB Honey Badgers have a good amount of torque, however take a fair time to reach full speed. Since the sweet spot of ~30-35kRPM is well below full speed, Honey Badgers reach glass ceiling speed very quickly. This is in contrast to something like a Blade 180, or Falcon/Rhino, which only reach glass ceiling speed at near full speed, but reach full speed quite quickly.
As a 2S flywheel motor, I personally would recommend against using Honey Badgers if alternatives like Blade 180s or Badgers are available and suitable. They spin up to unnecessarily high speed, are excessively loud and provide no significant performance benefit over the aforementioned motors. From my test fires they also seem to fire more helicoptering darts than more conventional flywheel motors, though that could just be my Demolisher as it still has the faux spiral rifling. If you have no other choice and have to use 2S, Honey Badgers will work as flywheel motors but I feel like slower motors like Blade 180s work pretty much just as well and are less ear breaking.
MTB Honey Badgers are a 130 sized motor intended for use as a high speed RS pusher on 3S - getting about 14dps as opposed to Rhinos at about 9dps. Their specs however also suggest possibility for use as a 2S flywheel motor. I decided to try them in my Demolisher as I didn't want to bother with Blade 180s for it.
A quick diversion to the battery pack in question, the pack I use for the Demolisher and Elite Rayven is a Turnigy "Bolt", which is a high voltage Lithium pack (LiHV). They differ from traditional LiPos in that they are significantly thinner (this one is 11m thick) yet have a very high discharge rating (this 500mAh pack has 65C constant and 130C burst), but also are designed to be charged to a maximum of ~4.35V per cell, instead of 4.2V as with traditional LiPo. For my purposes, the extra voltage is unnecessary and actually potentially detrimental, but the discharge rating and size are very useful for fitting battery trays like that of the Demo and Elite Rayven.
The "ideal" flywheel motor speed is around 30-35kRPM without load, as it is high enough to maintain "glass ceiling" velocities (the maximum speed at which a standard single stage flywheeler can launch a full length dart), while not being so high as to introduce excessive noise, vibration and potential dart burning. The Blade 180 has a no load speed of ~32kRPM at 7.4V (pretty much perfect), while the "Banshee", another popular 2S motor, has a no load speed around 38.5kRPM, which is slightly higher than necessary. The MTB Honey Badger on the other hand, has a no load speed of ~43kRPM at 7.4V, which is way excessive for a flywheel motor. This is clearly noticeable upon revving, as the flywheels spin up to a much higher speed and make a massive amount of noise, far more than most popular flywheel motors like Blade 180s and Falcons/Rhinos, and even the already high speed Banshee, despite having roughly the same (perhaps a touch better) performance. They also take noticeably longer to slow to a stop if left to drift.
BlasterTech have a good video of actual numbers and firing:
MTB Honey Badgers have a good amount of torque, however take a fair time to reach full speed. Since the sweet spot of ~30-35kRPM is well below full speed, Honey Badgers reach glass ceiling speed very quickly. This is in contrast to something like a Blade 180, or Falcon/Rhino, which only reach glass ceiling speed at near full speed, but reach full speed quite quickly.
As a 2S flywheel motor, I personally would recommend against using Honey Badgers if alternatives like Blade 180s or Badgers are available and suitable. They spin up to unnecessarily high speed, are excessively loud and provide no significant performance benefit over the aforementioned motors. From my test fires they also seem to fire more helicoptering darts than more conventional flywheel motors, though that could just be my Demolisher as it still has the faux spiral rifling. If you have no other choice and have to use 2S, Honey Badgers will work as flywheel motors but I feel like slower motors like Blade 180s work pretty much just as well and are less ear breaking.
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MLF Game Report 17/4/16 - Grenade Launchers, Worker Flywheels Usage
Another MLF event, because of the shields there was a lot more grenade action. I also got a good amount of experience with Worker wheels in my Bullpup Rapidstrike, and tried out my Demolisher with MTB Honey Badgers.
Nerf Big Bad Bow (extra spring, dart firing barrel) - much the same as the Sledgefire, although larger and more awkward to use. It had quite good range and accuracy, but naturally had an exceptionally low ROF. Useful for supporting fire, but not effective in direct combat or close quarters.
Base rules:
If a player is hit with a dart, they are downed ("hit" and "downed" are often used interchangeably). When downed, they can choose to wait for a medic, or go to respawn (if the gamemode has respawns). If the downed player chooses to respawn, once they move from their spot they can no longer be revived by a medic.
A medic revives a downed player by placing their hand on the player, counting to 3 (at a reasonable speed). Once the countdown is complete, the downed player is revived.
A grenade hit forces a player to respawn, and they cannot be revived by a medic.
A melee tag also forces a player to respawn. If a melee weapon is not available, the attacking player can simply tag the target player with their hand.
A shield naturally blocks darts, but breaks when hit by a grenade - the shield must be dropped immediately and cannot be used for the rest of the round.
Gamemodes:
Old:
Kill Confirmed - very similar to Freeze Tag/Tag Teams. When a player is hit, they are downed and must wait for a teammate to revive them, which is achieved with a simple hand tag. In Kill Confirmed, all players are medics. An opposing player may tag a downed player with their hand to "confirm the kill" and eliminate them from the game. Naturally if an entire team is downed, then that team loses even if none of them are "confirmed". The last team with surviving, non-downed players wins.
Capture the Flag - classic gamemode, obtain both flags at your team's flag post to win. When hit while holding the flag, drop the flag as well as being downed.
*NEW RULES* if both flags are taken, the game enters a sudden death mode with no respawns.
Black Hawk Down - assymetric gametype with two teams: the smaller Special Forces (SF) and larger Insurgents (who often go by a variety of less politically correct names). The SF win if they eliminate all Insurgents. The Insurgents win if they eliminate all SF, or capture the SF's flag. The SF players are all medics and instantly revive with a tag, while the Insurgents have a single medic who operates on ordinary medic rules.
*NEW RULES* An Insurgent melee attack is a suicide attack and eliminates both the SF and Insurgent.
VIP - one player from each team is designated as the VIP of that team (the teams do not need to tell other teams who their designated VIP is). If the VIP is downed, their team can no longer respawn (but can still be revived by their medic). The VIP must call out when they are downed, and cannot be revived by the medic. One player is designated as the medic of the team (likewise whose identity does not need to be publicly shared). The last team with surviving players wins.
New:
None
New:
None
Blasters:
Only the blasters that saw significant action (that I saw and remember) are listed here.
Regulars:
Elite Rapidstrike (various motors, LiPos) - a staple for these sorts of games, performed as usual. Excellent for raw dart output but somewhat lacking in longer range accuracy.
I had my first combat experience with Worker flywheels in my Bullpup RS, and it performed exceptionally well. Grouping seemed to be significantly better, I was getting a lot less spread even at longer ranges, allowing me to actually get a lot more hits at longer ranges. It may have been getting slightly better muzzle velocity, but the accuracy improvement was the big difference I noticed.
Elite Alpha Trooper (upgraded spring) - solid all rounder that's very easy to use, though compared to flywheelers and Pump Retals are rather outclassed. Could be used effectively, but often took a lot more effort than with say flywheelers. Fairly good as an entry level blaster.
Elite Demolisher (MTB Honey Badgers, 2S LiPo) - tried it for one round before dumping it again. It felt far less accurate than my Bullpup RS, the spinup time was a little longer than what I'm used to and the noise felt excessive. I think the accuracy problem is partly a flywheel cage issue and partly not having Worker flywheels, but overall was not happy with its performance. I feel like Honey Badgers are not an especially good 2S flywheel motor, stick with better established motors like "Banshees" or Blade 180s/3240s.
Elite Stryfe (various motors, LiPos) - very solid blasters, solid range, decent accuracy and good ROF. Less ROF than Rapidstrikes, but a lot smaller and lighter. Easily the best entry level flywheeler, and arguably the best entry level blaster for this type of event.
N-Strike Stampede (upgraded spring) - competitive in range compared to the flywheelers, but had a slower ROF. It did *work*, and is a little easier for a newbie to not screw up (no risk of shoving darts into stationary flywheels), but otherwised offered no real advantage over flywheeler autos.
Elite Retaliator (upgraded springs, pump grips) - solid all rounders similar to but in many ways better than EATs. Superior internals and customisable pumps often make them preferable over the rarer EATs, but the cost of making one is far more than an EAT (assuming roughly retail price).
N-Strike Longstrike (Extreme Blastzooka tank, air compressor, brass breech) - this thing was the closest to a sniper rifle present on the day. Excellent range, but the accuracy was not especially good (I believe due to a shorter than ideal barrel), and ROF was exceptionally slow. I think a well done Longshot is overall far more effective.
Zombie Strike Sledgefire (singled, upgraded spring) - a high power, blaster that is relatively easier to build than a lot of other high power blasters (e.g. a brass breeched or similar Longshot). ROF is exceptionally slow due to the reload process, but if well set up, has very good range and accuracy. Useful as a support blaster, but heavily lacking in direct combat. Might actually work well if paired up with a Stryfe or Rapidpistol as a secondary, though repeatedly switching blasters is a pain.
New:
Buzz Bee Sentinel (brass breech, extra/upgraded springs) - this thing was a very good blaster, excellent range and a not-terrible ROF. In close quarters naturally it's at a huge disadvantage to flywheelers or pump actions, but much better overall than other long range blasters like the Longstrike above. I was shot by it at pretty much point blank (I'm assuming through being mistaken for a live player when I was actually out and just filming), and it stung quite a lot for a good minute.
N-Strike Longshot (new breeches, upgraded springs, pump grips) - similar to the Sentinel above, these were excellent for long range potshotting, but couldn't stand up to flywheelers or the smaller pump actions in close quarters. One was not used significantly as the user became lazy and switched to a Stryfe, and the other had some kind of internal issues, giving it suboptimal and inconsistent performance.
This was also my first time seeing in person and trying an Xmando. Though it felt quite tough and weight, I found the design to be exceptionally boring, more so even than a lot of Buzz Bee designs. I found the stock to be almost unusably short, and despite the stiff prime, performance did not seem particularly good in my few test shots. This of course could be an internal issue with this unit rather than a design flaw, but honestly I didn't like the shell at all.
This was also my first time seeing in person and trying an Xmando. Though it felt quite tough and weight, I found the design to be exceptionally boring, more so even than a lot of Buzz Bee designs. I found the stock to be almost unusably short, and despite the stiff prime, performance did not seem particularly good in my few test shots. This of course could be an internal issue with this unit rather than a design flaw, but honestly I didn't like the shell at all.
Nerf Big Bad Bow (extra spring, dart firing barrel) - much the same as the Sledgefire, although larger and more awkward to use. It had quite good range and accuracy, but naturally had an exceptionally low ROF. Useful for supporting fire, but not effective in direct combat or close quarters.
Buzz Bee Blastzooka (stockish) - this was my choice of grenade launcher and it worked surprisingly well. Has decent range and accuracy, though pump up time is a little long (~12 pumps for full power). It was also a pain to carry as I had it slung on my other shoulder, and tend to flap about when I was running fast. I'll be looking at creating something that is either more convenient to carry (probably an attachment of some sort) or something with faster and easier priming. Maybe both...
N-Strike Longshot (stock) - this thing only appeared as it was changing hands, but it was pretty cool seeing a complete red Longshot. It's new user used it for a couple of rounds and managed at least 1 hit with it, despite it being completely stock.
N-Strike Longshot (stock) - this thing only appeared as it was changing hands, but it was pretty cool seeing a complete red Longshot. It's new user used it for a couple of rounds and managed at least 1 hit with it, despite it being completely stock.
We used the first play area this event. It has a lot of trees, but no significant bushes except along one border, and so is purely tree-to-tree combat and has no major "lines" of cover. Weather was not an issue, temperature peaked probably around 20C and the skies were clear, though the tree cover protects much of the play area from the sun. While there are generally enough trees for cover throughout the area, the north western area near the path is quite sparse, with just a single sparse line of trees. This area is much harder to use, though is generally not a big problem. Personally I think I prefer the second play area due to the greater density of cover, especially some particular large shrubs.
Player count peaked at around 14 or 15, a little more than previous games.
Player count peaked at around 14 or 15, a little more than previous games.
MLF also received an extra batch of darts, which was very helpful. This reduced the number of necessary dart sweeps to just two - one mid event just before lunch, and one at the end of the event. In previous events, darts sweeps were sometimes after every 2 or 3 rounds, as the main dart box was quickly depleted and players were running out of ammo.
We played a few rounds of Kill Confirmed, and they went pretty much as expected. Short, intense and simple fun. Since the play area and spawn points used lent well to two main front of combat, the teams typically split into two groups. As usual, the winning team is typically the one that is able to eliminate one portion of the opposing team, and take control of one side of the play area. As we played KC with smaller player counts while waiting for others to arrive and load up, downing even just two players meant a significant portion of a team.
In the one KC round I have recorded, I was able to quickly down the two enemies on my side of the area, while getting downed myself in the process. Since my side of the play area was clear, I was quickly revived by a teammate, proceeded to eliminate the two downed enemies, and by that time the enemy team had just one player left, who was quickly eliminated.
The early stage of the round could easily have gone either way - a stray dart here or there and suddenly a hit becomes a miss, or a miss miraculously becomes a hit. With a bit of bad luck, I could have been downed before hitting either player, which would probably have resulted in defeat for my team. I didn't see anything of what happened on the other side of the field though, it could have been that my team was doing really well regardless. That is pretty much Kill Confirmed in a nutshell though, a bit of strategy does a lot, but given the fast paced nature of the game, so does a bit of luck.
We played a number of Capture the Flag rounds. Most of them went about as expected, although one particular game went rather unusually.
In this particular long game, both teams had pushed quite close to the other teams' flag. My team had progressed through the north end of the play area, while the other team had pushed up along the south. My team was the first to actually push through and steal the flag, however before we could return it, the other team managed to steal ours. As a result, the flags ended up being brought all the way to the spawn points, which naturally resulted in a horribly long stalemate. It's literally impossible to push into the spawn area to steal the flag, since any defenders can just sit on the spawn point and be effectively invincible.
Eventually the respawns were reworked for this situation - every player had just one more respawn, after which they would be eliminated from the game. Medics could still revive of course. This mechanic led to a bit of a back-and-forth fight as players ran back to respawn or were eliminated, eventually resulting in both teams having just a few surviving players. The enemy team was actually able to retrieve both flags and get them very close to their flag post (within about 5 metres), but were eliminated at the last minute, and so my team actually won through elimination rather than flag capturing.
This mechanic was slightly altered and turned into a rule for the remaining CTF rounds, being that if both flags are stolen, the game becomes a sudden death. This is somewhat awkward and turns the game basically into an elimination game, which I'm not a huge fan of. I believe a flag exclusion zone around spawn would work better, something like the flag cannot be brought within ~10 metres (or some other reasonable distance or area) of spawn. Additionally, I believe that the flag should only be dropped if the player carrying it is downed, and so should otherwise always be in the hands of a player, or in its appropriate flag post. Among other things, this would help to solve flag hiding issues. If the flag bearer chooses to hide, then their team effectively loses one player, giving the enemy team the upper hand numerically. If they choose to engage in combat, then it is clearly obvious to the enemy team where their stolen flag is, and so where they should attack.
All the other CTF rounds went about as expected, taking only a couple of minutes each and each ending with a clean flag capture. Like usual, the two teams would generally engage each other on two fronts, one down the south end and one through the middle. I typically play very aggressively and always sprint from the start, so I am always one of the first players in position. When spawning in the south west corner, I would usually push up along the south as it is closer to my spawn and offers generally better cover as it has more trees. This cover allows me to better push up to the south east corner, just below the flag, from which I can potentially sprint out and steal the flag. The problem for moving along the south edge is that you are easily fired upon from the middle, and the flag is slightly harder to return as the flags are in line with each other through the middle. When spawning in the north east corner, I usually push up through the middle as it is much easier to reach from spawn and is usually directly in line with the enemy flag. From the middle, I have a (slightly) better view of the area, and due to being slightly uphill, can also provide slightly better suppressing fire. However the middle is much more exposed, and especiallycan have trouble advancing against particular groups of trees that offer longer ranged blasters an excellent defensive position.
Being that I am almost always playing quite aggressively, I tend to get a fair few hits on enemies, but also get hit a lot. By virtue of my speed, I'm always able to get back into combat quickly, and also make a lot of attacks at the flag. I ended up making a number of flag captures, I recorded at least 3 successful flag thefts and returns.I couldn't have made most of these runs without the help of teammates, as when running the flag, I focus purely on running and almost never try to engage, and so must rely on teammates to hold off any pursuers. In particular, there was one run where a few enemies were able to get between me and my team's flag post, and I only survived that run through the intervention of several teammates.
Overall besides that one extra long round, CTF worked pretty much as expected.
We played a couple of Black Hawk Down rounds, and they went similarly to the previos event's games, however I think these rounds didn't go as well. We had 14 players for the BHD rounds, so played with 5 SF v 9 Insurgents. Each team had one shield.The SF team was able to win once, with every other roundgoing to the Insurgents. The SF started in the north west, while the Insurgents started in the south west.
As with before, the Insurgents' survival hinged on the survival of their medic. Without the medic in play, the SF would be able to easily blast through the Insurgents as they can all revive one another instantly, while the Insurgents get instantly eliminated. Because of the amount of combat going on and the general lack of cover, the Insurgent medic was always busy running back and forth reviving people. If the medic was unable to reach a certain group of downed Insurgents in time, chances are the SF team would be able to push up, eliminate the downed Insurgents and flank the survivors.
As with the other game types, the teams usually split in two, with one group fighting through the middle and the other along the south edge. Given the general lack of cover outside of particular lines and groups, the two groups are usually confined to quite narrow lines of attack. For instance in the game where I was on the SF team, three SF players (including me) and about 5 or 6 Insurgents had a firefight along the south edge. The lack of cover made it such that pretty much all 8 or 9 of us were in line, and it was total chaos. We eventually were all downed through sheer volume of fire, though not before some pretty cheesy revive chain tactics in a desperate attempt to survive.This is in contrast with the second play area, where the Insurgents were generally able to attack along the entire width of the main play area, which felt much more like a defence game.
In the one game where the SF team won, they actually won by drawing a significant portion of the Insurgents out of cover, then eliminating them and pushing up to wipe out the remaining Insurgents. Instead of engaging along the middle or the south, most of the SF team stuck to the northern most tree line. This tree line starts near the north east spawn and runs along west, but does not quite get to the western flag. Additionally it is quite far north of even the middle line, so is rather hard to attack from, but quite easy to defend. Several of us Insurgents decided to attack this northern line from the middle, and due to lack of cover and the significant distance to cross, we were all downed quickly. Since we were quite far from the other Insurgents, and were downed out in the open, it was pretty much impossible for the medic to reach and revive us. The other group of Insurgents were not faring too well either. Although they managed to down an SF player, they were unable to eliminate them, and eventually the SF team were able to push back and eliminate the remaining Insurgents.
Besides this positioning and baiting, this SF team was also extremely well coordinated and were constantly moving back and forth and covering one another, making it very difficult to isolate and eliminate any one of their members. A bit of luck probably also played a part, given the inherent inaccuracy of darts and blasters, and the fact that one of the other SF teams had a similar position, but wereeliminated.
I personally feel that the denser and wider cover of the second play area works much better with BHD, as it doesn't encourage funneling of players quite as much. The significant funneling of players into lines of cover turns the game into a tree to tree spamfest, with neither team having much opening to push forward without significant luck. The denser cover of the second area allows more progressive combat along a wider area, and gives a much better environment for this sort of assymetric offensive/defensive game. The balance of roughly 2 Insurgents to 1 SF works reasonably well I think, there are enough SF players to offer them a decent chance of victory, but enough Insurgents to make it a challenge.
Finally we played two VIP games, and both of them went terribly for my team. Not due to balance issues or anything, more just very poor communication, coordination and awareness.
In the first round, we had our VIP picked, but didn't have our medic chosen until *after* the game had started. About half of the team was not really paying attention or really into it at that point, and by the time everyone had actually realised we were in combat, most of the enemy team had moved up along the middle to flank and attack. We were in a very bad position, and our VIP was one of the first, if not the first player to be taken out. Naturally from there the rest of us were wiped out pretty fast.
In the second round, our team was more prepared but still not that well coordinated. Furthermore, our VIP decided to engage in front line combat, which was a very poor decision. While I was rather successful attacking along the south edge, the rest of my team was apparently less successful, and when I went back to respawn I found our VIP taken out. As it turns out, our VIP was lost relatively early, but whether due to the intensity of combat, my distance from him or something else, I didn't hear him announce his defeat. Several of my teammates kept going back to respawn despite our VIP standing right there, out of the game.
Given that these were the last games of the day, a fair few of the players were probably tired by then and sort of out of it, so the exceptionally poor coordination and communication is perhaps not much of a surprise, but it was a little annoying to be out of the game so quickly. I guess that is the punishment for poor coordination and VIP choice.
The shields were used in this event a lot, and performed much as previously, with a few more weaknesses. In the second play area with a lot of dense cover and a relatively narrower area, it is very easy for shields to protect their own flank with cover and advance with minimal fear of flanking. Additionally, since noone had grenade launchers, everyone had to rely on throwing grenades, which is very difficult to do when under fire. In contrast, in this play area with a lower density of trees and a wider play area, shields are very vulnerable to flanking. Although they can just as easily duck behind a tree and turn their shield to hold off the flanker, the abundance of open space around the play area made it much harder for shields to just advance at will. In this event I witnessed a lot more shields get forced back due to the threat of flanking than in the second play area. For the most part though, thrown grenades were still not very effective as they are even easier to dodge with all the open space, and are almost never thrown particularly well due to the stress of being under fire.
However, those of us with grenade launchers saw more success in 1v1 against tanks. I personally achieved two separate shield hits, which in the new rules renders the shield unusable for the rest of the game. The ability to fire off a grenade with good range and accuracy at a moment's notice is far, far superior to trying to throw a grenade, especially when under fire. In one of the times I got a successful shield hit, I was engaged in a 1v1 with the shield, and likely would not have been able to throw a grenade accurately in that situation. The presence of grenade launchers along with the updated rules significantly reduced the shields' effectiveness, and I think they're at a good spot currently. They're still extremely powerful of course, but the threat of permanently losing the shield as well as the increased effectiveness of grenades with launchers makes it much harder to just charge forward or set up, which was something that happened annoyingly frequently in the previous event.
The shields and shield balance is at a good spot now I think, and the gamemodes are all in pretty good places. I think a few more events refining the details of some of the gamemodes would be good, but besides that MLF is a pretty good group to have games with.
A link to the same post on BlasterHub: link
Being that I am almost always playing quite aggressively, I tend to get a fair few hits on enemies, but also get hit a lot. By virtue of my speed, I'm always able to get back into combat quickly, and also make a lot of attacks at the flag. I ended up making a number of flag captures, I recorded at least 3 successful flag thefts and returns.I couldn't have made most of these runs without the help of teammates, as when running the flag, I focus purely on running and almost never try to engage, and so must rely on teammates to hold off any pursuers. In particular, there was one run where a few enemies were able to get between me and my team's flag post, and I only survived that run through the intervention of several teammates.
Overall besides that one extra long round, CTF worked pretty much as expected.
We played a couple of Black Hawk Down rounds, and they went similarly to the previos event's games, however I think these rounds didn't go as well. We had 14 players for the BHD rounds, so played with 5 SF v 9 Insurgents. Each team had one shield.The SF team was able to win once, with every other roundgoing to the Insurgents. The SF started in the north west, while the Insurgents started in the south west.
As with before, the Insurgents' survival hinged on the survival of their medic. Without the medic in play, the SF would be able to easily blast through the Insurgents as they can all revive one another instantly, while the Insurgents get instantly eliminated. Because of the amount of combat going on and the general lack of cover, the Insurgent medic was always busy running back and forth reviving people. If the medic was unable to reach a certain group of downed Insurgents in time, chances are the SF team would be able to push up, eliminate the downed Insurgents and flank the survivors.
As with the other game types, the teams usually split in two, with one group fighting through the middle and the other along the south edge. Given the general lack of cover outside of particular lines and groups, the two groups are usually confined to quite narrow lines of attack. For instance in the game where I was on the SF team, three SF players (including me) and about 5 or 6 Insurgents had a firefight along the south edge. The lack of cover made it such that pretty much all 8 or 9 of us were in line, and it was total chaos. We eventually were all downed through sheer volume of fire, though not before some pretty cheesy revive chain tactics in a desperate attempt to survive.This is in contrast with the second play area, where the Insurgents were generally able to attack along the entire width of the main play area, which felt much more like a defence game.
In the one game where the SF team won, they actually won by drawing a significant portion of the Insurgents out of cover, then eliminating them and pushing up to wipe out the remaining Insurgents. Instead of engaging along the middle or the south, most of the SF team stuck to the northern most tree line. This tree line starts near the north east spawn and runs along west, but does not quite get to the western flag. Additionally it is quite far north of even the middle line, so is rather hard to attack from, but quite easy to defend. Several of us Insurgents decided to attack this northern line from the middle, and due to lack of cover and the significant distance to cross, we were all downed quickly. Since we were quite far from the other Insurgents, and were downed out in the open, it was pretty much impossible for the medic to reach and revive us. The other group of Insurgents were not faring too well either. Although they managed to down an SF player, they were unable to eliminate them, and eventually the SF team were able to push back and eliminate the remaining Insurgents.
Besides this positioning and baiting, this SF team was also extremely well coordinated and were constantly moving back and forth and covering one another, making it very difficult to isolate and eliminate any one of their members. A bit of luck probably also played a part, given the inherent inaccuracy of darts and blasters, and the fact that one of the other SF teams had a similar position, but wereeliminated.
I personally feel that the denser and wider cover of the second play area works much better with BHD, as it doesn't encourage funneling of players quite as much. The significant funneling of players into lines of cover turns the game into a tree to tree spamfest, with neither team having much opening to push forward without significant luck. The denser cover of the second area allows more progressive combat along a wider area, and gives a much better environment for this sort of assymetric offensive/defensive game. The balance of roughly 2 Insurgents to 1 SF works reasonably well I think, there are enough SF players to offer them a decent chance of victory, but enough Insurgents to make it a challenge.
Finally we played two VIP games, and both of them went terribly for my team. Not due to balance issues or anything, more just very poor communication, coordination and awareness.
In the first round, we had our VIP picked, but didn't have our medic chosen until *after* the game had started. About half of the team was not really paying attention or really into it at that point, and by the time everyone had actually realised we were in combat, most of the enemy team had moved up along the middle to flank and attack. We were in a very bad position, and our VIP was one of the first, if not the first player to be taken out. Naturally from there the rest of us were wiped out pretty fast.
In the second round, our team was more prepared but still not that well coordinated. Furthermore, our VIP decided to engage in front line combat, which was a very poor decision. While I was rather successful attacking along the south edge, the rest of my team was apparently less successful, and when I went back to respawn I found our VIP taken out. As it turns out, our VIP was lost relatively early, but whether due to the intensity of combat, my distance from him or something else, I didn't hear him announce his defeat. Several of my teammates kept going back to respawn despite our VIP standing right there, out of the game.
Given that these were the last games of the day, a fair few of the players were probably tired by then and sort of out of it, so the exceptionally poor coordination and communication is perhaps not much of a surprise, but it was a little annoying to be out of the game so quickly. I guess that is the punishment for poor coordination and VIP choice.
The shields were used in this event a lot, and performed much as previously, with a few more weaknesses. In the second play area with a lot of dense cover and a relatively narrower area, it is very easy for shields to protect their own flank with cover and advance with minimal fear of flanking. Additionally, since noone had grenade launchers, everyone had to rely on throwing grenades, which is very difficult to do when under fire. In contrast, in this play area with a lower density of trees and a wider play area, shields are very vulnerable to flanking. Although they can just as easily duck behind a tree and turn their shield to hold off the flanker, the abundance of open space around the play area made it much harder for shields to just advance at will. In this event I witnessed a lot more shields get forced back due to the threat of flanking than in the second play area. For the most part though, thrown grenades were still not very effective as they are even easier to dodge with all the open space, and are almost never thrown particularly well due to the stress of being under fire.
However, those of us with grenade launchers saw more success in 1v1 against tanks. I personally achieved two separate shield hits, which in the new rules renders the shield unusable for the rest of the game. The ability to fire off a grenade with good range and accuracy at a moment's notice is far, far superior to trying to throw a grenade, especially when under fire. In one of the times I got a successful shield hit, I was engaged in a 1v1 with the shield, and likely would not have been able to throw a grenade accurately in that situation. The presence of grenade launchers along with the updated rules significantly reduced the shields' effectiveness, and I think they're at a good spot currently. They're still extremely powerful of course, but the threat of permanently losing the shield as well as the increased effectiveness of grenades with launchers makes it much harder to just charge forward or set up, which was something that happened annoyingly frequently in the previous event.
The shields and shield balance is at a good spot now I think, and the gamemodes are all in pretty good places. I think a few more events refining the details of some of the gamemodes would be good, but besides that MLF is a pretty good group to have games with.
A link to the same post on BlasterHub: link
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Review: MazoFactory MOLLE Single Grenade Pouch (HSG1)
One of the common mechanics in Melbourne Nerf groups is the utility of "grenades", an ammo type that can be thrown or launched, which are usually designed and used to combat shields. They also often have special abilities if they directly hit a player. With the creation of shields for MLF, the continuing importance of grenades in MHvZ and the increasing usage of Demolisher rockets and other thrown ammo in my own games, I decided to get some dedicated grenade pouches to allow easier and faster access to any grenades I'm carrying. Enter the MazoFactory Grenade Pouch (HSG1-R2).
Note that a variety of objects count as "grenades" in Melbourne games, depending on the group and what is available at the time. Common "grenades" are Demo rockets and Vortex Pocket Howlers, although stress balls are commonly used in MLF. Pretty much any throwable ammo is applicable to "grenade" for this review.
The Mazofactory HSG1 has been designed specifically to hold either a Demo rocket or a Vortex Pocket Howler, though could easily be used for other similar sized objects.
The pouch is a reasonably simple design, a fabric box with tightening shock cord. The shock cord allows securing of objects, particularly smaller objects that aren't secured by the fabric.
The pouch fits a Demo rocket quite tightly, even with the cord loosened. The fabric box feels *just* large enough to fit a Demo rocket without significant squishing.
This is about the furthest I'd put a Demo rocket in such that it can be easily pulled back out. The head, being the stiffest part of the body, is the main part gripped by the fabric. Even in this position barely into the pouch, the rocket is held quite firmly in place, though can pivot a little.
The pouch is much deeper though and the rocket can be pushed further in if desired. Besides making it harder to pull out the rocket, the rocket is also even better secured and will not move of its own accord
The best technique I have for pulling rockets out is to put my index finger into the hole and pinch the rocket with my thumb and third finger. For Vortex Pocket Howlers, it is easy enough to just grip the shaft and yank it straight out. The Demo rocket however is very squishy towards the back, and thus is more difficult to quickly grab and pull out.
I would argue that perhaps the pouch should be a little looser - given the squishy nature of the rear of a Demo rocket, it is much harder to grab and pull the rear of it with significant force. The grip position required also forces a grip shift before loading the rocket into a blaster, as most rocket blasters take rockets on a rocket post. Smaller objects like Vortex Pocket Howlers would still be easily secured with the shock cord.
Alternatively, a pouch that holds a Demo rocket pointing up would also make life a lot easier, as grabbing and pulling the rather rigid head is far easier. It would also make reloading a little bit faster and more natural.
It should be noted though that like with a lot of other Mazofactory products, significant use loosens the pouch somewhat. This is particularly useful for Demo rockets, which remain secure but become a little easier to yank out quickly.
The Grenade Pouch attaches to PALS/MOLLE webbing, using a single column and up to 3 rows.
The strap has a fabric hook on the bottom which prevents the strap from retracting through the PALS webbing.
The way around this is to simply bend the top of the pouch backwards, exposing more of the strap on the bottom, allowing it to be fed back through the webbing.
Once out of the first row, the strap is easy to remove.
As with other PALS/MOLLE equipment, attaching the pouch to something else first requires threading the strap through the first row of webbing.
Once through, feed the strap through the first row of webbing on the back of the pouch...
...and flatten. Naturally with 2 rows of webbing still to be used, the pouch is not very stable and will flap about, but will not detach easily.
Repeat the strap threading process to fully secure the pouch.
Nice and secure, and loaded.
The pouches will fit in adjacent columns, they're *just* narrow enough to fit together nicely.
This is how I currently have my grenade pouches set up, both just right of centre. Being that I wanted them in a throwable/reloadable at a moment's notice, I wanted them somewhere in the front facing columns. Since I'm right handed (and so throw better with my right), and fire a slung grenade launcher with my left, having them on the right is ideal. I had to do a little pouch shifting but settled on the pouch setup pictured above, which works well and has quite good symmetry.
Grenade pouches are in my mind far less important than clip/mag pouches, as grenades are a special use ammo type and are simply thrown, or directly loaded onto a blaster to be fired, and are far easier to normally carry. Unless you're playing sock ninja or similar, you'll probably be using throwables far, far less than you'll be switching clips/mags. Given their significantly smaller size compared to clips/mags as well as being squishable, it's a lot easier to carry spare grenades than it is clips/mags without tactical gear, whether it be in a pocket, squished somewhere on your blaster or even squished in one of your hands. Tactical gear is highly preferable for clips/mags as it is highly beneficial for them to be lined up properly for ease and consistency of reloading, as well as keeping track of which ones still have ammo. Additionally clips/mags of reasonable capacity can be very difficult to carry in significant number without appropriate tactical gear.
Mazofactory grenade pouches cost $15 each, which is probably more than most people would pay for something that holds a single grenade. Unless you're going for the tactical look or use grenades a lot, I'd say you could probably get away with stuffing them in your pocket or something. I personally like these separate grenade pouches as I find the grenades like to bounce out of dump pouches when running, and especially when I'm not using clip (mag) system blasters, use the dump pouch for loose darts.
Note that a variety of objects count as "grenades" in Melbourne games, depending on the group and what is available at the time. Common "grenades" are Demo rockets and Vortex Pocket Howlers, although stress balls are commonly used in MLF. Pretty much any throwable ammo is applicable to "grenade" for this review.
The Mazofactory HSG1 has been designed specifically to hold either a Demo rocket or a Vortex Pocket Howler, though could easily be used for other similar sized objects.
The pouch is a reasonably simple design, a fabric box with tightening shock cord. The shock cord allows securing of objects, particularly smaller objects that aren't secured by the fabric.
The pouch fits a Demo rocket quite tightly, even with the cord loosened. The fabric box feels *just* large enough to fit a Demo rocket without significant squishing.
This is about the furthest I'd put a Demo rocket in such that it can be easily pulled back out. The head, being the stiffest part of the body, is the main part gripped by the fabric. Even in this position barely into the pouch, the rocket is held quite firmly in place, though can pivot a little.
The pouch is much deeper though and the rocket can be pushed further in if desired. Besides making it harder to pull out the rocket, the rocket is also even better secured and will not move of its own accord
The best technique I have for pulling rockets out is to put my index finger into the hole and pinch the rocket with my thumb and third finger. For Vortex Pocket Howlers, it is easy enough to just grip the shaft and yank it straight out. The Demo rocket however is very squishy towards the back, and thus is more difficult to quickly grab and pull out.
I would argue that perhaps the pouch should be a little looser - given the squishy nature of the rear of a Demo rocket, it is much harder to grab and pull the rear of it with significant force. The grip position required also forces a grip shift before loading the rocket into a blaster, as most rocket blasters take rockets on a rocket post. Smaller objects like Vortex Pocket Howlers would still be easily secured with the shock cord.
Alternatively, a pouch that holds a Demo rocket pointing up would also make life a lot easier, as grabbing and pulling the rather rigid head is far easier. It would also make reloading a little bit faster and more natural.
It should be noted though that like with a lot of other Mazofactory products, significant use loosens the pouch somewhat. This is particularly useful for Demo rockets, which remain secure but become a little easier to yank out quickly.
The Grenade Pouch attaches to PALS/MOLLE webbing, using a single column and up to 3 rows.
The strap has a fabric hook on the bottom which prevents the strap from retracting through the PALS webbing.
The way around this is to simply bend the top of the pouch backwards, exposing more of the strap on the bottom, allowing it to be fed back through the webbing.
Once out of the first row, the strap is easy to remove.
As with other PALS/MOLLE equipment, attaching the pouch to something else first requires threading the strap through the first row of webbing.
Once through, feed the strap through the first row of webbing on the back of the pouch...
...and flatten. Naturally with 2 rows of webbing still to be used, the pouch is not very stable and will flap about, but will not detach easily.
Repeat the strap threading process to fully secure the pouch.
Nice and secure, and loaded.
The pouches will fit in adjacent columns, they're *just* narrow enough to fit together nicely.
This is how I currently have my grenade pouches set up, both just right of centre. Being that I wanted them in a throwable/reloadable at a moment's notice, I wanted them somewhere in the front facing columns. Since I'm right handed (and so throw better with my right), and fire a slung grenade launcher with my left, having them on the right is ideal. I had to do a little pouch shifting but settled on the pouch setup pictured above, which works well and has quite good symmetry.
Grenade pouches are in my mind far less important than clip/mag pouches, as grenades are a special use ammo type and are simply thrown, or directly loaded onto a blaster to be fired, and are far easier to normally carry. Unless you're playing sock ninja or similar, you'll probably be using throwables far, far less than you'll be switching clips/mags. Given their significantly smaller size compared to clips/mags as well as being squishable, it's a lot easier to carry spare grenades than it is clips/mags without tactical gear, whether it be in a pocket, squished somewhere on your blaster or even squished in one of your hands. Tactical gear is highly preferable for clips/mags as it is highly beneficial for them to be lined up properly for ease and consistency of reloading, as well as keeping track of which ones still have ammo. Additionally clips/mags of reasonable capacity can be very difficult to carry in significant number without appropriate tactical gear.
Mazofactory grenade pouches cost $15 each, which is probably more than most people would pay for something that holds a single grenade. Unless you're going for the tactical look or use grenades a lot, I'd say you could probably get away with stuffing them in your pocket or something. I personally like these separate grenade pouches as I find the grenades like to bounce out of dump pouches when running, and especially when I'm not using clip (mag) system blasters, use the dump pouch for loose darts.
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Mod: FK-180PH-3250 Rapidstrike Pusher Motor
Another motor experiment, this one of the -3250.
I wanted to get a 180 pusher motor that would get a slightly higher ROF than a -3050 on 3S (which gets 10-11dps), because I like high ROF and I find 10dps to be a tiny bit slow. Don't get me wrong, the -3050 is an excellent 10dps pusher on 3S, and in my opinion is the best ~10dps pusher of all the motors I've tried (only major one I haven't tried is the XP180). I just wanted a slightly higher ROF because I wanted something special and a little nuts.
The -3250 had no axle issues like the -3050 did, so was a simple drop in and resolder. Unfortunately, it spins just a little bit too fast, and so with a standard Rapidstrike wiring, tends to do trailing shots (ie you pull the trigger for 2 shots, then the pusher overruns and fires a 3rd). I went and changed the wiring from my current layout ("live centre") to a slightly different, more suitable one ("dead centre"). Torukmakto04 has an excellent wiring diagram that shows the difference:
Source: The Dart Zone
Live centre is a standard 3-switch build. It is how a Rapidstrike behaves in stock form (ignoring all locks and other unnecessary parts of course), and is how I like standard ~10dps Rapidstrikes. Regardless of when the trigger is released, the pusher will always complete its stroke and return to rest position.
The one difference between live and dead centre is that dead centre does not have the green wire. With live centre, if the pusher is not in rest position and the trigger is released, the pusher will be driven until it hits the switch and brakes. The problem is that if the pusher is travelling too fast or does not have enough braking torque, it will not brake completely and will travel (and drive) for another full cycle.
Dead centre solves this by removing pusher self driving, meaning that when the trigger is released, the pusher will coast, and if it hits rest position, will brake. This means that the pusher is far, far less likely to overrun, and cannot go "runaway", but also means that the pusher may not always stop in rest position, and may coast to a stop halfway through a cycle. For the most part, the combination of coasting and then braking will stop the pusher in rest position anyway, but in a small fraction of times (say 5-10% without significant practice), the pusher will stop while still out. This presents an issue for reloading as the pusher arm is still out and will get hit by the top dart in the new clip, but especially with practice and with loaded darts providing extra friction, this issue does not occur frequently.
Live centre is the preferred wiring schematic for anything that fires slower than ~12dps, since below that speed any good pusher should be able to brake to a stop with no problem. Faster than ~12dps, dead centre is necessary as just about any motor on live centre will just go runaway and won't stop itself.
ROF is around 12dps on a fully charged 3S, which was the target ROF. I was hoping for a pusher that would be able to stop itself reliably on live centre at 12dps, but unfortunately it overruns quite a far bit. A diode or two to drop the voltage a little would probably put it at a perfectly controllable ~11dps on live centre, but I decided to stay with 12dps on a dead centre circuit.
Honestly I would not recommend the -3250 as an ordinary pusher motor. It's in an odd spot - it's just a little too fast to be reliable on live centre, but is substantially slower than the especially fast pusher motors that are often used.
If you want standard controllable ~10dps with live centre, I'd recommend the -3050 on 3S, -3240 on 2S or perhaps MTB's upcoming 180 on 3S if it goes into production. I don't recommend using a 130 for the pusher (at least for live centre), I used a Falcon pusher for a time and it overran a fair bit despite only being around 9dps and having quite a lot of torque for a 130.
If you want high speed ~15dps+, the MTB Honey Badger or -3240 both on 3S, and they'll need to be on dead centre, or MTB's 2 switch setup. They are guaranteed to go runaway on live centre, even the excellent 3240 does not have enough torque to brake to a stop at that speed.
Nevertheless, I quite enjoy having a higher than usual but still controllable ROF of about 12dps from the -3250.
I wanted to get a 180 pusher motor that would get a slightly higher ROF than a -3050 on 3S (which gets 10-11dps), because I like high ROF and I find 10dps to be a tiny bit slow. Don't get me wrong, the -3050 is an excellent 10dps pusher on 3S, and in my opinion is the best ~10dps pusher of all the motors I've tried (only major one I haven't tried is the XP180). I just wanted a slightly higher ROF because I wanted something special and a little nuts.
The -3250 had no axle issues like the -3050 did, so was a simple drop in and resolder. Unfortunately, it spins just a little bit too fast, and so with a standard Rapidstrike wiring, tends to do trailing shots (ie you pull the trigger for 2 shots, then the pusher overruns and fires a 3rd). I went and changed the wiring from my current layout ("live centre") to a slightly different, more suitable one ("dead centre"). Torukmakto04 has an excellent wiring diagram that shows the difference:
Source: The Dart Zone
Live centre is a standard 3-switch build. It is how a Rapidstrike behaves in stock form (ignoring all locks and other unnecessary parts of course), and is how I like standard ~10dps Rapidstrikes. Regardless of when the trigger is released, the pusher will always complete its stroke and return to rest position.
The one difference between live and dead centre is that dead centre does not have the green wire. With live centre, if the pusher is not in rest position and the trigger is released, the pusher will be driven until it hits the switch and brakes. The problem is that if the pusher is travelling too fast or does not have enough braking torque, it will not brake completely and will travel (and drive) for another full cycle.
Dead centre solves this by removing pusher self driving, meaning that when the trigger is released, the pusher will coast, and if it hits rest position, will brake. This means that the pusher is far, far less likely to overrun, and cannot go "runaway", but also means that the pusher may not always stop in rest position, and may coast to a stop halfway through a cycle. For the most part, the combination of coasting and then braking will stop the pusher in rest position anyway, but in a small fraction of times (say 5-10% without significant practice), the pusher will stop while still out. This presents an issue for reloading as the pusher arm is still out and will get hit by the top dart in the new clip, but especially with practice and with loaded darts providing extra friction, this issue does not occur frequently.
Live centre is the preferred wiring schematic for anything that fires slower than ~12dps, since below that speed any good pusher should be able to brake to a stop with no problem. Faster than ~12dps, dead centre is necessary as just about any motor on live centre will just go runaway and won't stop itself.
ROF is around 12dps on a fully charged 3S, which was the target ROF. I was hoping for a pusher that would be able to stop itself reliably on live centre at 12dps, but unfortunately it overruns quite a far bit. A diode or two to drop the voltage a little would probably put it at a perfectly controllable ~11dps on live centre, but I decided to stay with 12dps on a dead centre circuit.
Honestly I would not recommend the -3250 as an ordinary pusher motor. It's in an odd spot - it's just a little too fast to be reliable on live centre, but is substantially slower than the especially fast pusher motors that are often used.
If you want standard controllable ~10dps with live centre, I'd recommend the -3050 on 3S, -3240 on 2S or perhaps MTB's upcoming 180 on 3S if it goes into production. I don't recommend using a 130 for the pusher (at least for live centre), I used a Falcon pusher for a time and it overran a fair bit despite only being around 9dps and having quite a lot of torque for a 130.
If you want high speed ~15dps+, the MTB Honey Badger or -3240 both on 3S, and they'll need to be on dead centre, or MTB's 2 switch setup. They are guaranteed to go runaway on live centre, even the excellent 3240 does not have enough torque to brake to a stop at that speed.
Nevertheless, I quite enjoy having a higher than usual but still controllable ROF of about 12dps from the -3250.
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Review: Nerf Modulus Recon MkII
With the first Modulus blaster being a flywheeler, the next logical blaster to release is a Retaliator-based springer, being that the Retaliator platform has the most tacticool potential. Nerf did exactly that, releasing the Recon MkII. How does it compare to the still available Retaliator?
Pretty standard Modulus style box, open front with the Modulus advert on the back.
Let's take a look at the base Recon MkII blaster first.
The Recon MkII is based on the Recon/Retaliator platform, and so is a compact slide primed, clip (mag) system blaster. Compared to its older siblings, it has a unique Modulus aesthetic, in particular the different handle and slide designs, the entirely new handguard and side tac rail. Unfortunately, like so many other blasters released recently, it is lacking detail on the left side. This is particularly irritating as the slide and front body look especially plain and boring.
Looking at the front, note how the shell is completely flat. Especially take note of the lack of divot below the muzzle that is found on the Recon/Retaliator.
Sling loop at the bottom of the handle, pretty standard, though the triangular shape is new.
The Recon MkII has two tac rails, one on the slide (ala Recon/Retaliator), but also one on the side.
This side rail is ideal for lights, though the lack of Nerf-made lights recently is perplexing. This point looks to be resolved soon once those new Modulus attachments get released.
The handle is a more curved design than that found in the N-Strike line. I personally like it, it's a good size and quite smooth, with the cuts in the handle being unnoticable. The handguard is perhaps a little small, especially that strange edge just below the trigger.
The slide is also a slightly different design to that on the Recon/Retal. The first difference is that the slide doesn't actually rest flush with the front surface, which is especially disconcerting with barrel attachments. I feel that the flow of the body with barrels works much better if the slide goes all the way forward.
More troublesome however is the tac rail, which is raised slightly above that of a Recon/Retal. I find that the raised rail digs much more into my hand compared to a Recon/Retal.
The jam door is a flip open as normal for this platform, and has the same aperture.
The firing cycle of the Recon MkII is much same as other springer clip (mag) system blasters.
Pull the slide back to prime the spring and open the bolt.
Switch clips if needed with the slide back.
Push the slide forward to close the bolt and load a dart.
Pull the trigger to fire, then repeat.
Note that my Recon MkII is a revised model from the original. There are a few key physical differences that you can spot while still in box.
The first is that the revised model lacks a small nub at the front that the original model had. This is probably the easiest change to spot.
Closer examination reveals a small slot cut into the back of the magwell, circled in red. Additionally, the handguard has been recessed slightly, and is vertical and rectangular, rather than slightly angled and trapezoidal.
The key functional difference however is clip (mag) compatability. The original model only worked with 6 and 12 dart clips (mags), which is completely ridiculous and unacceptable. Making a blaster incompatible with probably the most popular of all clips (mags) is an incredibly stupid oversight, how this got past initial design phases I have no clue. The new revised model is compatible with all clip (mag) sized, as demonstrated below:
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Let's look at how the Recon MkII compares to the Retal. After all, they are extremely similar.
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In terms of basic shape and function, the two are pretty much the same. Though they have significant aesthetic differences, there is pretty much no functional difference between the two.
While the handles are quite different, the trigger and clip (mag) release switches are not.
The slides are somewhat different, especially with the Recon MkII's not going forward all the way, but they have the same travel anyway and feel quite similar besides the tac rail differences.
The jam doors and jam door apertures are pretty much the same.
The magwells are rather different, the Recon MkII's is boxier but slightly lower profile.
Take note of the difference in the front. The Recon MkII's is completely flat and excessively boring, while the Retal's has more detail, and more importantly a small divot below the muzzle. This divot allows locking of most barrel extensions onto the muzzle. Without it, barrel extensions that rely on this divot are not locked in place and are somewhat looser. This is especially a problem for the Recon MkII given that the whole Modulus idea is about customisability.
Let's take a look at the Recon MkII's new barrel extension.
The barrel extension is a very short piece, but a cool looking one at that. It's drastically different from most other barrels in style, being quite aggressively cut and an unusual muzzle piece. I personally quite like it.
Oddly, from the front, the barrel extension is actually rather hollow - there are a lot of gaps throughout the shell, much like the barrel shroud of a Rapidstrike.
The back is pretty standard, with one exception. Instead of using a spring loaded dome below the barrel as with most barrel extensions of this type, this one uses a barrel locking mechanism akin to the Modulus Proximity Barrel. I see this as a bit of an issue, as this method is generally less secure than with the spring loaded dome. This method is necessary for barrels like the Proximity Barrel which don't have the space for it, and acceptable as such barrels are typically lighter and so shake themselves less.
The barrel extension also has a faux tactical rail on the bottom. Though I would have liked it to be functional, given its length I understand why they chose to block it out.
Certain attachments can sort of grab on to it, but won't be secure and can fall off or be knocked off very easily.
Here's the Recon MkII barrel extension compared to various others. As you can tell, even compared to a half-length Recon/Retal barrel it's shorter. The only barrel of comparable length could be the Modulus Proximity Barrel but I sold mine off some time ago so didn't have it for comparison.
Like a lot of other barrel extensions, the Recon MkII's doesn't serve much, if any, purpose besides looking cool.
Now let's take a quick look at the Recon MkII's stock.
Unlike the barrel extension, the stock is quite boring, being a solid grey piece with no special feature. It's also extremely short, as the next picture shows. At very least it's solid.
The stock is painfully short, comparable to the Stormtrooper Deluxe Blaster's extremely short stock. On a Recon MkII (and most other blasters for that matter), I find this stock pretty much unusably short and overall not very good, easily one of the worst of Nerf's stocks.
Finally let's look at the fully assembled Recon MkII.
It's a decent looking piece, the parts stylistically work together to form a neat looking micro-carbine sort of thing. The left side is a little bland, but the right side looks rather nice.
Next to a full Retal set. The Retal is much more substantial and has more useful parts, though I'd suggest that the Recon MkII's parts are more aesthetically focused. Both have annoyingly short stocks, but while the Recon MkII's barrel is basically pointless, the Retal's barrel is ideal for mounting pump grips, and the foregrip is useful for a DIY vertical pump grip.
Finally for performance. Does the Recon MkII match up to the original Recon replacement, the Retaliator?
Sadly not. Ranges are pretty poor for an Elite-era blaster, about 9-10m true flat range. Really not remarkable, and not close to the range claim of 21m.
Accuracy is not very good either, but certainly not the worst I've seen. Spread at full range of ~9m is about 1m wide, and a lot of darts tend to swerve, but for the most part the spread is better than some other blasters I've seen.
Rate of fire is about the same as a Retal, 2-3dps is possible, especially with locks removed.
The Recon MkII works best as a large pistol, given its compact base blaster size and slide prime. In stock form, stocks and barrels are just a disservice to mobility and performance. Unfortunately, it suffers from obsolescence despite being a newer blaster, as the Retaliator can fill the exact same roles and performs better. Even worse, the Retaliator can fill some roles that the Recon MkII cannot, such as firing potshots at long(ish) range with surprising accuracy.
The Recon MkII retails for about 40AUD, with sales bringing it down usually to 30AUD. I picked mine up for 20AUD from Myer thanks to a catalogue error (the Ion Fire and Recon MkII prices got switched), but even for that price I don't think I got that good a deal. For ~30AUD I would not even have consider it at all. The Retaliator can be had for 29AUD from Kmart regularly, and offers far superior value. Not only does it include more and better accessories (primarily the 12 clip [mag] and barrel for pump grips), but it is also a superior performer. Outside of aesthetics or abnormal circumstances, I cannot think of a legitimate reason to buy a Recon MkII over a Retaliator.
In a way, the Recon MkII is faithful to its namesake - it is completely outclassed by the Retaliator.
Pros: Has a new and different aesthetic that I personally like, new barrel extension piece is quite cool
Cons: Outclassed in just about every respect by the Retaliator
Power: 3.5/7
Accuracy: 3/5
Rate of Fire: 3.5/5
Usability: 3.5/5
Value for Money: 2/5
Overall: 2.9/5
Personal Rating: 2.5/5 - it should be on par with the Retaliator for performance and yet isn't, and is sold for a higher price. I like its aesthetic and the barrel extension, but that's all I can really say about it.
A link to the review I posted on BlasterHub: link
Pretty standard Modulus style box, open front with the Modulus advert on the back.
Let's take a look at the base Recon MkII blaster first.
The Recon MkII is based on the Recon/Retaliator platform, and so is a compact slide primed, clip (mag) system blaster. Compared to its older siblings, it has a unique Modulus aesthetic, in particular the different handle and slide designs, the entirely new handguard and side tac rail. Unfortunately, like so many other blasters released recently, it is lacking detail on the left side. This is particularly irritating as the slide and front body look especially plain and boring.
Looking at the front, note how the shell is completely flat. Especially take note of the lack of divot below the muzzle that is found on the Recon/Retaliator.
Sling loop at the bottom of the handle, pretty standard, though the triangular shape is new.
The Recon MkII has two tac rails, one on the slide (ala Recon/Retaliator), but also one on the side.
This side rail is ideal for lights, though the lack of Nerf-made lights recently is perplexing. This point looks to be resolved soon once those new Modulus attachments get released.
The handle is a more curved design than that found in the N-Strike line. I personally like it, it's a good size and quite smooth, with the cuts in the handle being unnoticable. The handguard is perhaps a little small, especially that strange edge just below the trigger.
The slide is also a slightly different design to that on the Recon/Retal. The first difference is that the slide doesn't actually rest flush with the front surface, which is especially disconcerting with barrel attachments. I feel that the flow of the body with barrels works much better if the slide goes all the way forward.
More troublesome however is the tac rail, which is raised slightly above that of a Recon/Retal. I find that the raised rail digs much more into my hand compared to a Recon/Retal.
The jam door is a flip open as normal for this platform, and has the same aperture.
The firing cycle of the Recon MkII is much same as other springer clip (mag) system blasters.
Pull the slide back to prime the spring and open the bolt.
Switch clips if needed with the slide back.
Push the slide forward to close the bolt and load a dart.
Pull the trigger to fire, then repeat.
Note that my Recon MkII is a revised model from the original. There are a few key physical differences that you can spot while still in box.
The first is that the revised model lacks a small nub at the front that the original model had. This is probably the easiest change to spot.
Closer examination reveals a small slot cut into the back of the magwell, circled in red. Additionally, the handguard has been recessed slightly, and is vertical and rectangular, rather than slightly angled and trapezoidal.
The key functional difference however is clip (mag) compatability. The original model only worked with 6 and 12 dart clips (mags), which is completely ridiculous and unacceptable. Making a blaster incompatible with probably the most popular of all clips (mags) is an incredibly stupid oversight, how this got past initial design phases I have no clue. The new revised model is compatible with all clip (mag) sized, as demonstrated below:


Let's look at how the Recon MkII compares to the Retal. After all, they are extremely similar.

In terms of basic shape and function, the two are pretty much the same. Though they have significant aesthetic differences, there is pretty much no functional difference between the two.
While the handles are quite different, the trigger and clip (mag) release switches are not.
The slides are somewhat different, especially with the Recon MkII's not going forward all the way, but they have the same travel anyway and feel quite similar besides the tac rail differences.
The jam doors and jam door apertures are pretty much the same.
The magwells are rather different, the Recon MkII's is boxier but slightly lower profile.
Take note of the difference in the front. The Recon MkII's is completely flat and excessively boring, while the Retal's has more detail, and more importantly a small divot below the muzzle. This divot allows locking of most barrel extensions onto the muzzle. Without it, barrel extensions that rely on this divot are not locked in place and are somewhat looser. This is especially a problem for the Recon MkII given that the whole Modulus idea is about customisability.
Let's take a look at the Recon MkII's new barrel extension.
The barrel extension is a very short piece, but a cool looking one at that. It's drastically different from most other barrels in style, being quite aggressively cut and an unusual muzzle piece. I personally quite like it.
Oddly, from the front, the barrel extension is actually rather hollow - there are a lot of gaps throughout the shell, much like the barrel shroud of a Rapidstrike.
The back is pretty standard, with one exception. Instead of using a spring loaded dome below the barrel as with most barrel extensions of this type, this one uses a barrel locking mechanism akin to the Modulus Proximity Barrel. I see this as a bit of an issue, as this method is generally less secure than with the spring loaded dome. This method is necessary for barrels like the Proximity Barrel which don't have the space for it, and acceptable as such barrels are typically lighter and so shake themselves less.
The barrel extension also has a faux tactical rail on the bottom. Though I would have liked it to be functional, given its length I understand why they chose to block it out.
Certain attachments can sort of grab on to it, but won't be secure and can fall off or be knocked off very easily.
Here's the Recon MkII barrel extension compared to various others. As you can tell, even compared to a half-length Recon/Retal barrel it's shorter. The only barrel of comparable length could be the Modulus Proximity Barrel but I sold mine off some time ago so didn't have it for comparison.
Like a lot of other barrel extensions, the Recon MkII's doesn't serve much, if any, purpose besides looking cool.
Now let's take a quick look at the Recon MkII's stock.
Unlike the barrel extension, the stock is quite boring, being a solid grey piece with no special feature. It's also extremely short, as the next picture shows. At very least it's solid.
The stock is painfully short, comparable to the Stormtrooper Deluxe Blaster's extremely short stock. On a Recon MkII (and most other blasters for that matter), I find this stock pretty much unusably short and overall not very good, easily one of the worst of Nerf's stocks.
Finally let's look at the fully assembled Recon MkII.
It's a decent looking piece, the parts stylistically work together to form a neat looking micro-carbine sort of thing. The left side is a little bland, but the right side looks rather nice.
Next to a full Retal set. The Retal is much more substantial and has more useful parts, though I'd suggest that the Recon MkII's parts are more aesthetically focused. Both have annoyingly short stocks, but while the Recon MkII's barrel is basically pointless, the Retal's barrel is ideal for mounting pump grips, and the foregrip is useful for a DIY vertical pump grip.
Finally for performance. Does the Recon MkII match up to the original Recon replacement, the Retaliator?
Sadly not. Ranges are pretty poor for an Elite-era blaster, about 9-10m true flat range. Really not remarkable, and not close to the range claim of 21m.
Accuracy is not very good either, but certainly not the worst I've seen. Spread at full range of ~9m is about 1m wide, and a lot of darts tend to swerve, but for the most part the spread is better than some other blasters I've seen.
Rate of fire is about the same as a Retal, 2-3dps is possible, especially with locks removed.
The Recon MkII works best as a large pistol, given its compact base blaster size and slide prime. In stock form, stocks and barrels are just a disservice to mobility and performance. Unfortunately, it suffers from obsolescence despite being a newer blaster, as the Retaliator can fill the exact same roles and performs better. Even worse, the Retaliator can fill some roles that the Recon MkII cannot, such as firing potshots at long(ish) range with surprising accuracy.
The Recon MkII retails for about 40AUD, with sales bringing it down usually to 30AUD. I picked mine up for 20AUD from Myer thanks to a catalogue error (the Ion Fire and Recon MkII prices got switched), but even for that price I don't think I got that good a deal. For ~30AUD I would not even have consider it at all. The Retaliator can be had for 29AUD from Kmart regularly, and offers far superior value. Not only does it include more and better accessories (primarily the 12 clip [mag] and barrel for pump grips), but it is also a superior performer. Outside of aesthetics or abnormal circumstances, I cannot think of a legitimate reason to buy a Recon MkII over a Retaliator.
In a way, the Recon MkII is faithful to its namesake - it is completely outclassed by the Retaliator.
Pros: Has a new and different aesthetic that I personally like, new barrel extension piece is quite cool
Cons: Outclassed in just about every respect by the Retaliator
Power: 3.5/7
Accuracy: 3/5
Rate of Fire: 3.5/5
Usability: 3.5/5
Value for Money: 2/5
Overall: 2.9/5
Personal Rating: 2.5/5 - it should be on par with the Retaliator for performance and yet isn't, and is sold for a higher price. I like its aesthetic and the barrel extension, but that's all I can really say about it.
A link to the review I posted on BlasterHub: link
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MHvZ Game Report 7/5/16 - Police Appearance, Virus Bunkers
MHvZ event with a surprise appearance by the police. I'll let the MTB video fill you in on more of the details and such. Basically someone in the park saw what they thought was a rifle of some kind, called the cops, and the cops responded appropriately. Thankfully noone was fined or anything, but obviously it's better if the cops don't need to come at all.
Gamemodes:
Old:
Survival - Standard HvZ gametype, humans try to survive for a given amount of time (or until the last human falls). Zombies are given access to upgrades at various times, for instance Infectors at 5 minutes, Tanks at 10 minutes and Husk at 13 minutes.
Secret VIP - There are 3 special players in this game: the VIP, the General and the Traitor. The VIP is a human who the other humans are trying to protect and is restricted to a given area (we used the usual tambark area), while the Traitor is a zombie masquerading as a human. When stunned, zombies must move outside of the VIP's area before counting down their stun. The only person who knows the VIP's identity is the General, while all original zombies know the Traitor's identity. Everyone knows the identity of the General, making them the only guaranteed trustworthy human. The Traitor acts as a human, but can at any point do a single Traitor zombie tag, revealing that they are the Traitor, and thus turn into a regular zombie. Additionally, if a human hits another human, the hit human is stunned for 25 seconds. If the humans protect the VIP for a given period of time (e.g. 15 minutes), the humans win. If the zombies successfully tag the VIP, the zombies win. Zombie upgrades are unlocked on a timer like Survival, something along the lines of 3 minutes for Infectors, 6 minutes for Tanks and 10 minutes for Husk.
If a human is hit by a grenade, they are instantly turned into a zombie - this is the only way to eliminate the Traitor.
6 Round Pair Sweep - Each player is given 6 darts to start with, and may take any number of blasters or a single melee weapon. Humans have 3 respawns at the nearest tree, and go to respawn when they are hit. A melee hit or a zombie tag immediately turns a human into a zombie. Humans try to deposit as many darts to a dart collector as possible and are safe during the depositing, and can no longer deposit darts as a zombie. Humans work in pairs. Once all humans have been turned, the game ends and the winner is the pair who deposited the most darts as humans.
New:
Virus Bunkers (name pending) - At regular intervals (we used 2 minutes after beginning of round), the play area is filled with an airborne virus (or something along those lines) that turns any humans not in designated safe zones ("bunkers") into zombies. The virus remains lethal for a set time (we used 30 seconds), after which humans can leave the bunkers safely. Some time later (we used 2 minutes) later the virus is released again, and so the cycle repeats until all humans have been turned. Humans are given a 30 second warning of virus release. Zombies naturally are unaffected by the virus, and may enter the bunkers.
Zombie rules:
Zombies tag humans with their hands onto any body part, blaster, tactical gear, etc, turning the human into a zombie. If a human hits a zombie with a dart, the zombie is stunned for 25 seconds. A human can also stun a zombie with melee, but only with a direct hit to the back.
There are 3 standard zombie upgrades/mutations/perks:
Infector - zombies get to use foam swords, pool noodles, etc. Tags with said foam melee weapons on humans count as regular tags. Said melee weapons can also be used to block darts.
Tank - zombies get to use shields, which block darts. The shields cannot be used to tag humans, presumably as a precaution against shieldbashing which could certainly cause injury.
Husk - a zombie gets to use a ranged attack, in this case a Drain Blaster firing rockets. A ranged Husk attack counts as a regular zombie tag. Husk ammo can be picked up by any zombie, but can only be used by the Husk naturally. The Husk may move from the place they were stunned to retrieve their ammo, but do not count down their stun timer until they return to their original stun place.
Zombie upgrades cannot be stacked, so a zombie can only have one upgrade at any time.
If in play, grenades can stun a zombie with a hit to any equipment, including swords and shields, and can be reused at will.
Blasters:
Since there were a lot of different blasters there, I've generalised them and only listed down the ones that I saw as significant or noteworthy, or remember for that matter. Being that I can't be everywhere at once, it's entirely possible I completely missed some blasters.
Recurring/Regulars:
Rebelle Sweet Revenge (light mods)- my standard dual pistols, worked well when I went to them against a couple of zombies, but easily overwhelmed by more than ~4.
Elite Rapidstrike (various motors, LiPos) - standard high ROF blaster, a staple at MHvZ. Excellent for mowing down multiple zombies in close quarters or saturating an area with darts, but generally not as good at longer ranges. Worker flywheels do help a lot in the accuracy department though.
This was my first event running my Bullpup RS with the -3250 pusher motor, and it worked fine. I was still able to reliably fire off 2 dart bursts, and could easily dump a clip (mag) at a moment's notice if necessary. I did appreciate the 2 darts being fired off very quickly together, perfect for HvZ style combat.
Elite Retaliator (various pump grips, upgrade springs) - solid pump action springer, good range and accuracy though a little lacking in ROF. I used my Pump Ret for the first time this event, and it worked well. I was able to get a fair number of tags from a longer range than usual. In the round I used it in, the lack of ROF did get me into trouble as I had to engage multiple zombies in close quarters, eventually resulting in me getting tagged.
Elite Demolisher (MTB Honey Badger motors, 2S LiPo) - decided to give it a try again after tweaking it following the previous MLF event. It still feels much less accurate than my Bullpup RS, and I struggle to get used to semi auto compared to full auto. I think I've been spoiled by Rapidstrikes, and struggle to use a semi auto effectively. I felt like I actually used a lot more darts with the Demolisher than I did with my Bullpup RS, because I simply couldn't hit anything.
Zombie Strike Sledgefire (singled, spring upgrades) - as previously, powerful and fairly accurate, making it excellent for picking off single zombies. Being single shot makes it rather difficult to use in close quarters against multiple zombies, though priming on barrel opening does give it an edge over other high power singled blasters.
Elite Stryfe (various motors, LiPos) - the other main MHvZ staple, good ROF with practice, solid range and usable accuracy. Not as fast firing as a Rapidstrike, and not as effective at longer ranges as a Retaliator, Sledgefire, etc, but it's a good all rounder.
N-Strike Barricade (Elite-compatible flywheels, unknown other mods) - though slow revving and a lot clunkier than say Stryfes, the main advantage of these dual Barricades is the ability to load on the fly. The user of these dual Barricades runs around quite a lot, constantly reloading and picking up darts.
Elite Alpha Trooper (assumed upgrade springs) - standard solid pump action blaster. Slightly better ROF than Retals, but much slower than flywheelers. A good entry level or low fuss blaster.
ZS Slingfire (upgrade spring) - used by the same player as all previous events. Works decently well with practice and experience, but still inferior to pump actions.
Star Wars Stormtrooper Deluxe Blaster (upgrade spring) - worked decently as usual, basically a mini Rampage/side loading EAT. Slightly better ROF than a Retal, but significantly inferior to a flywheeler.
Modulus Recon MkII (AR removed) - same as previously, performed slightly worse compared to a Retal. Works fine for very close quarters against a couple of zombies, but the low effective range prevents effective use beyond close range.
New/Infrequent:
Buzz Bee Sentinel (stock) - incredibly powerful for a stock blaster, performing competitively with spring upgraded EATs and such. ROF is a fair bit slower being lever action instead of pump action, but for a stock blaster it's extremely impressive.
Lanard Hand Cannon (couplered for absolvers) - by virtue of using absolvers, it puts out a lot of darts in an instant at surprisingly good ranges. Excellent for pushing back tanks, suppressing groups of zombies and wiping out zombies at close range, but having to reload after every burst makes it very difficult to use when covering multiple angles.
N-Strike Vulcan (stock as far as I'm aware) - performed as expected, unnecessarily large and bulky, slow firing and not very powerful, but just looked cool. Not recommended unless you want to challenge yourself.
Vortex Pyragon (stock as far as I'm aware) - first time seeing a Vortex blaster actually get used at MHvZ. I think it worked ok, certainly not as good as a spring upgraded EAT/Rampage/etc, but far from the worst choice possible. Low disc velocity makes for very easy dodging beyond close range, but I think just the surprise factor of Vortex did catch some zombies off guard. Easy high ROF also helps a lot in close quarters.
Mega Rotofury and Cycloneshock (stock as far as I'm aware) - decent blasters, though far outclassed by clip (mag) system blasters. Had decent power, certainly comparable or superior to other stock blasters (besides the Sentinel of course), but the low capacity-size ratio and scarcity of ammo made their use rather more difficult.
Play area was same as usual, a large triangle that's mostly open barring a few large trees and a tambark area. Weather peaked around 25C which is fine. Player count peaked around 25ish which is a little higher than usual, although a lot more than usual seemed to be newbies/inexperienced/less-tactically-inclined.
Annoyingly, there were several other groups of people using the same area, with one particular yoga group camped out just south of the big cluster of trees. This effectively turned the play area into a trapezoid, as the southern area was pretty much avoided. Late in the day, a group of people started playing soccer in the north east corner, which was not a huge issue as that open area is not essential to play.
We started the event with two Survival rounds, which both went pretty much as expected. Progress for the zombies would be pretty slow for the first ~10 minutes. They might get a tag or two from sneaking up on unaware humans or managing to isolate one or two from the group, but no major progress against the group as a whole. Those humans who get isolated are usually isolated through lack of awareness and poor tactical thinking, as just two or three humans can easily fend off about 5 ordinary/Infector zombies with good coordination. Once the zombies were given access to Tank shields, they can actively move to separate the human groups, making them far easier to rush, isolate and thus tag. The last survivors are a combination of humans who have just avoided notice (usually by skirting around the edges of the play area, or being otherwise stealth) and those who can run and fend for themselves.
In the first round, I was with a small group of humans that was one of the last groups remaining. Human coordination in this round was fairly poor, and so the humans fell rather quickly. I was tagged through poor awareness, being tagged from behind just after fending off a group of zombies in front. Generally the humans didn't do too well this round, I felt like the Tanks were not very well combated which resulted in a lot of easy tags.
In the second round, I was one of, if not the last human remaining. I feel like this round went a little better than the first, as it felt like it lasted a little longer and I went through more ammo. I was however running my Demolisher, which as I noted above, I have serious trouble getting any hits with. By the end of the round, I was completely out of darts in my clips (mags), and had switched to my Sweet Revenges. I think if I had used my Bullpup RS instead, I could have survived even longer, and kept other humans alive longer as well.
We played a couple of Secret VIP rounds, and overall they worked decently well, though there was an unusual amount of confusion at times. In both rounds, I played an ordinary human. I was never the General, VIP or Traitor, and I survived both rounds long enough to lose the rounds as a human.
In the first round, the zombies were unable to make much progress until they acquired Tank shields, and even then, their progress was slowed by the sheer number of humans they were facing. Because of the sheer number of humans clustered in the area, if a Tank charges in, they'll be very quickly surrounded and mowed down before they can do any significant damage. They might get a tag if they're lucky, but generally the raw volume of fire is enough to bypass the shield and stun the Tank. Ordinary and Infector zombies naturally have little hope against the human group, since they have basically no protection and will get instantly hosed down. Usually the only way the zombies make significant progress without the Traitor's help is a coordinated Tank rush or very poorly coordinated humans.
In the first round, the zombies made minimal progress until the Traitor revealed themselves, and the Traitor themselves did pretty much no damage to the humans, being stunned very quickly. However they did serve as a very valuable distraction - a good lot of the humans formed a circle around the Traitor, and had him grenaded, but in the process the Tanks rushed in and were able to tag a number of humans. One of the humans who was tagged thought they were the VIP (the VIP had been repicked just before the round, but clearly that message didn't reach the original VIP), and in the ensuing chaos and confusion, the real VIP was tagged. As usual, I was nowhere near the real VIP, and I still have no idea who it was. That Traitor reveal was a critical distraction, and even though the Traitor themselves didn't do much, the distraction gave the Tanks an opening to rush in.
In the second round, the zombies were able to make better progress without the Traitor's help, although there were still plenty of humans. Late in the game, I retreated out of the tambark area to try and get out of the chaos of the human defences and have a chance to reload. I was spotted and chased around the outside while reloading, but was able to elude my pursuers, only to find out that our VIP had been tagged. It turns out that the Traitor was in fact guarding the VIP the whole time, although I wasn't there to see what happened exactly (as usual...). It's becoming a really annoying habit of mine, it makes writing these posts pretty damn hard.
With a relatively well coordinated human group (as with this event), it's entirely up to the Traitor to give the zombies a chance. Without a good Traitor, the zombies will have major trouble going up against a much larger human group, who given the length of usual Secret VIP games, will likely have lots of ammo and firepower. Given how tight the VIP's area is, even just a distraction by the Traitor can be enough to give the zombies a chance, though the zombies have to always be ready to charge in. With a poorly coordinated human group, a well organised Tank rush can sometimes be enough to break the human defences, allowing the zombies to just pick off the rest.
We tried a new gamemode, with prototype name Virus Bunkers. The idea of this gamemode is that the humans are periodically forced to return to designated safe zones, where they will have to fend off zombies while stuck in an enclosed area for a short time. In this first trial, we played with 3 hidden OZs and no regular starter zombies, 30 second virus time and 2 minutes between virus releases. Zombie upgrades were released something along the lines of after 2 virus releases (Infector), after 4 virus releases (Tank) and after 6 virus releases (Husk). Because of the presence of OZs (aka Traitors), a 25 second human stun rule is implemented ala Secret VIP. We had 3 rather small square safe zones ("bunkers"). The game had a fair share of issues and has a lot of potential improvements, but even just from this flawed trial, I felt like it has a lot of potential for a really fun gamemode.
From the start of the game, everyone is quite paranoid of each other, and so during the first virus releases, the humans typically have a 30 second long standoff within each small bunker. I was not near the first OZ to reveal themselves (and the other two were some of the last survivors), so my first zombie encounter was with 2 or 3 zombies, who were easily fended off. The game quickly became more intense once there were multiple zombies during a virus release. Since the humans are confined to a small space for longer than the zombie stun timer (30 sec virus time vs 25 second stun time), a smart zombie will be able to fit two charges into one virus phase. Given how small the squares are, this gives a smart zombie quite a good chance (perhaps even too good) of tagging a human (or providing a good distraction for another zombie to get the tag). I was one of the last survivors, however did not survive on my own for very long. Due to an impending virus release, I was confined to a small square, having to fend off zombies from all directions, which naturally ended very quickly with my getting tagged.
In ordinary Survival rounds, humans can survive quite a while just from constantly moving, as they are constantly distancing themselves from stunned zombies, and escaping potentially awful situations. In Virus Bunkers, the humans have no such luxury and so must rely on teammates and firepower to survive - and given the chaotic and claustrophobic nature of Virus Bunkers, are likely to lose track of some nearby zombies and so get tagged. The long virus phase and relatively short time between virus phases makes it nearly impossible for a human to survive by running away, especially once the zombies notice any stray humans not already in a group in a bunker.
The zombie upgrades make what is already a bad situation for the humans into a deathtrap. Infectors make it just that little bit easier for zombies to tag their prey, while both the Tank and Husk are severely overpowered when the humans are so tightly confined. I have been told that upgrades may be dropped entirely from Virus Bunkers, given that the zombies are already so much more powerful than usual.
I think Virus Bunkers is a good complement to the current primary gamemodes, with some alterations of course. The bunkers we played with were very small, perhaps only 3 or 4 metres wide. This along with the painfully long virus time made it extremely difficult to survive a whole virus phase against multiple zombies. Additionally, the short time between virus phases makes it extremely hard to survive by running away, as chances are you'll just get caught by the virus and get turned anyway. I would suggest increasing the size of the bunkers by maybe 50%, along with a shorter virus phase (15-20 seconds, has to be less than the zombie stun time), to give humans a better chance of survival during the virus phase. Increasing the time between virus phases I believe would be healthy for the potential survival strategies of the game as well. Zombie upgrades are not really necessary in Virus Bunkers as stated previously. Hidden OZs are suitable, they prevent it from being too easy to defend the bunkers, but perhaps an ordinary starting zombie or two could be beneficial for the game, as it would further increase the paranoia of the humans - maybe only 1 or 2 hidden OZs would be necessary. One other minor issue which would be easy to solve is that not all players could hear the admin's whistle, which is used for all virus related warnings. This is easily solved by getting a louder whistle.
Overall I quite liked Virus Bunkers, I think it would be a good shorter/more hectic gamemode than Survival, with less stagnation tham Secret VIP often has.
A link to the same post on BlasterHub: link
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MLF Game Report 15/5/16 - Low Player Count, Rapidstrike Testing
MLF event with less players than usual for the majority of the time, with several players joining in about an hour before the end of the rounds. Nevertheless the day had quite a few good rounds, and the play area was very nice. I chrony'd several blasters as we had a chrono on hand, which was very useful for me.
Base rules:
Base rules:
If a player is hit with a dart, they are downed ("hit" and "downed" are often used interchangeably). When downed, they can choose to wait for a medic, or go to respawn (if the gamemode has respawns). If the downed player chooses to respawn, once they move from their spot they can no longer be revived by a medic.
A medic revives a downed player by placing their hand on the player, counting to 3 (at a reasonable speed). Once the countdown is complete, the downed player is revived.
A grenade hit forces a player to respawn, and they cannot be revived by a medic.
A melee tag also forces a player to respawn. If a melee weapon is not available, the attacking player can simply tag the target player with their hand.
A shield blocks darts, but breaks when hit by a grenade - the shield must be dropped immediately and cannot be used for the rest of the round.
Gamemodes:
Old:
Kill Confirmed - very similar to Freeze Tag/Tag Teams. When a player is hit, they are downed and must wait for a teammate to revive them, which is achieved with a simple hand tag. In Kill Confirmed, all players are medics. An opposing player may tag a downed player with their hand to "confirm the kill" and eliminate them from the game. Naturally if an entire team is downed, then that team loses even if none of them are "confirmed". The last team with surviving, non-downed players wins.
VIP - one player from each team is designated as the VIP of that team (the teams do not need to tell other teams who their designated VIP is). If the VIP is downed, their team can no longer respawn (but can still be revived by their medic). The VIP must call out when they are downed, and cannot be revived by the medic. One player is designated as the medic of the team (likewise whose identity does not need to be publicly shared). The last team with surviving players wins.
New:
None
New:
None
Blasters:
Only the blasters that saw significant action (that I saw and remember) are listed here.
Regulars/Recurring:
Elite Rapidstrike (various motors, LiPos) - standard high ROF blasters, effective at close-mid range though ammo consumption can get out of hand quickly with poor trigger discipline. Relatively recent developments like Worker flywheels and brass dart guides have helped improve accuracy significantly, to a point where they feel no worse than Retaliators and such.
This was my first event with a brass guide in my Bullpup RS, a piece of 19/32" brass that I'll be going into detail about in a future post. It worked well, accuracy did feel a little improved compared to having just Worker flywheels, and from a chrono test as well as combat experience, muzzle velocity did not appear to be significantly, if at all, impacted. The bonus of no darts popping out the top of clips (mags) is nice as well.
This is also the first time I've used my old 2S RS rifle in a long time. I've installed a pair of MTB Reapers (name coined by Foam Data Services), the 2S 180 that Ryan had samples made of but didn't put into production. I installed my pair in my RS rifle along with Worker flywheels. Compared to my Bullpup RS with Falcons, the Reapers achieve a good 10-15fps more on average (tested using FVJs). As with the brass flywheel guide, a full post on the Reapers will be done in the near future.
Elite Stryfe (various motors, LiPos) - the most common blaster at MLF, they have good ROF, range and with the right parts acceptable accuracy. Can't keep up with Rapidstrikes for spam, and can be outdone for range by high power springers, but very good all round blasters, and a good number of our players prefer Stryfes over Rapidstrikes.
Elite Retaliator (various pump grips, upgrade springs) - solid pump action blasters with decent power and accuracy. Compared to stock flywheel flywheelers accuracy is superior, but is not significantly different to an accuracy improved flywheeler (whether by Worker wheels, brass dart guide or otherwise).
This was my first event using my Gavinfuzzy gripped Retal, and it was rather disappointing. It seemed to be substantially weaker as well as less accurate compared to my Bullpup RS, though that could be just issues with this particular Pumptal. The muzzle velocity was highly variable, presumably dependent on dart fit. It's a shame, I was really looking forward to using it.
Elite Alpha Trooper (upgrade spring) - has a slightly higher ROF than a Pumptal, but lower power. An effective entry level blaster, but overshadowed by most other popular primaries.Buzz Bee Sentinel (brass breech, upgrade spring) - quite a powerful blaster, easily reaching the upper limits of the muzzle velocity cap, capable of 130-150fps with a good setup. ROF is quite slow due to being lever action, so it's significantly harder to use in close quarters or against several enemies, but the high power allows you to keep enemies much further back.
New/Infrequent:
Lanard Hand Cannon (couplered for absolvers and Demo rockets) - more a utility blaster than a main use blaster. When using absolvers, it has a good dart burst at surprisingly long range, making it very dangerous in close quarters. If 2/3 barrels are blocked, it can also fire a single dart fairly well, though still substantially weaker than a Sentinel or other high power blaster. It works decently well as a grenade (Demo rocket) launcher, with enough power for a decent shot.
We used a new third play area, and I think this play area is by far the best. It has a good diversity of cover, with some open areas and other areas super dense with trees or shrubs. It's long enough to have a significant divide between the two teams, while also being wide enough that the teams can attack along several lines, probably about 3 distinct lines. The north and middle paths have quite a lot of trees and bushes spread out, while the southern edge has a straight line of pine trees that offer decent cover and an ideal line to push up or retreat through. Perhaps the only problem is that there is an incline, with the east side being higher than the west, though I didn't see it being that significant in gameplay. Despite this area being the furthest away from where I live, I personally would prefer more events in this area given how superior it is overall.
There were a couple of notable features in this play area. First is the aforementioned pine line, which is a very useful line of cover not only for combat, but also as a distinct geographical landmark. On the eastern side, there are a couple of very dense and quite large bushes a few metres across that act as very large pieces of cover. They completely block darts and line of sight, and can be used as very effective hiding places if you're quiet and crouch. Finally in roughly the middle there is a large bunch of very thin trees very closely grouped together. While thin enough to see through easily, getting darts through the cover is a matter of luck, sometimes the dart will find a hole in the cover and fly through, in other times the dart hits a thick branch and stops. These sorts of tree areas offered a very unusual cover element.
There were a couple of notable features in this play area. First is the aforementioned pine line, which is a very useful line of cover not only for combat, but also as a distinct geographical landmark. On the eastern side, there are a couple of very dense and quite large bushes a few metres across that act as very large pieces of cover. They completely block darts and line of sight, and can be used as very effective hiding places if you're quiet and crouch. Finally in roughly the middle there is a large bunch of very thin trees very closely grouped together. While thin enough to see through easily, getting darts through the cover is a matter of luck, sometimes the dart will find a hole in the cover and fly through, in other times the dart hits a thick branch and stops. These sorts of tree areas offered a very unusual cover element.
Weather peaked around 20 degrees C, with a mix of sunshine and cloud cover throughout the day, perfect for nerfing. Player count was oddly low, the majority of the event only had 7 of us, which was quite awkward for balance. We had a couple of players join us later on which made balance much easier.
Given our awkardly prime low player count, we played a lot of Kill Confirmed. While I feel it can get a little boring in the other play areas, due to the diversity and size of this play area, I saw a lot of different tactics and areas used. We also tried a variety of different team setups, including 3v4, 2v2v2 (with one cooking sausages), 2v2v2v1 (with one having the shield) and 5v5 (with the extra players).
3v4 was pretty unbalanced so we only played a few rounds of it. I was on the team of 3. Both times the team of 3 got stomped. One of the major problems with this setup was the advantage of that one extra person. A team of 4 people can split into two pairs, who are readily able to revive their partner, and so can effectively attack from two directions. The team of 3 can't split up, as the one person left out effectively gets instantly eliminated if they get downed. As such, the team of 3 are highly vulnerable to getting flanked and thus getting wiped out, and that's exactly what happened to us. If the team of 4 do split into two pairs and are significantly separated, it is possible for the 3 team to rush and eliminate one of the pairs, but this requires very good coordination and timing, as well as some luck. Not only do you have to very quickly overwhelm both players in one of the pairs, but you also make yourself quite vulnerable to the other pair of enemies. Overall unless you give the team of 3 some significant advantage, with both teams having similarly skilled players, the team of 3 is at a massive disadvantage.
3v4 was pretty unbalanced so we only played a few rounds of it. I was on the team of 3. Both times the team of 3 got stomped. One of the major problems with this setup was the advantage of that one extra person. A team of 4 people can split into two pairs, who are readily able to revive their partner, and so can effectively attack from two directions. The team of 3 can't split up, as the one person left out effectively gets instantly eliminated if they get downed. As such, the team of 3 are highly vulnerable to getting flanked and thus getting wiped out, and that's exactly what happened to us. If the team of 4 do split into two pairs and are significantly separated, it is possible for the 3 team to rush and eliminate one of the pairs, but this requires very good coordination and timing, as well as some luck. Not only do you have to very quickly overwhelm both players in one of the pairs, but you also make yourself quite vulnerable to the other pair of enemies. Overall unless you give the team of 3 some significant advantage, with both teams having similarly skilled players, the team of 3 is at a massive disadvantage.
2v2v2 was a fair bit more balanced than 3v4, and was a fair bit better than previous 3 team rounds in previous events thanks to the play area. In the first two play areas, either cover is too sparse or the area is too narrow, resulting in one of the teams getting trapped in the middle and wiped out quickly. The width of this play area gives teams much better maneuvering space, somewhat reducing the threat of being surrounded. Typically if two of the teams target one in particular, those two attacking teams also get close enough to one another to trade potshots, and so cannot focus entirely on that one team in the middle. Something we tried to make 2v2v2 a little more interesting was to have partners start separated, however this had minimal effect on the game as the partners always just ran off to link up at the start. This only really changed where the teams started, and even then they were pretty close to where the teams normally started anyway. Usually the way 2v2v2 worked was that one team would hang back while the other two fought each other, ending with that one team engaging the survivors. Because of how Kill Confirmed works, the survivors are usually just one of the teams, with the other team getting wiped out. There were times when there was just one survivor, though this was relatively rarer as that required one team downing and eliminating one player, before getting wiped out by the other player.
In the 2v2v2 rounds I was paired with one particularly aggressive player who was not especially team aware. Naturally at times this was very effective, and at others got us into trouble. In one of the rounds, the two other teams engaged one another while my team was further back. My partner rushed up behind one of the teams and wiped them out before they realised he was there, and I still had not been spotted. This gave me a bit of an advantage when engaging the remaining team, and we were able to win that round. Conversely, in one other round, my partner again rushed forward, but was promptly taken down. I attempted to revive them, but as they were downed in an open area in range of several enemies, I was unable to get them revived and so I was left alone against several enemies. Especially for small team KC, knowing when to be aggressive and when to be defensive is crucial to giving yourself the best chance of victory. Excessive aggressiveness leaves you at high risk of being downed in a very exposed location or too close to enemies (and thus being unreviveable), while being overly defensive leaves you at risk of being surrounded and having nowhere to retreat to.
2v2v2v1 was the most chaotic, though was arguably a little more balanced than 2v2v2. The odd player out was allowed the use of a shield, which offered its own benefits compared to having a partner - the player alone is far more effective, however is also much more vulnerable as a single lucky shot instantly takes them out of the game. The presence of this 4th party however reduced the frequency of one team getting ganged up on - what I saw was typically one team engaging the shield player, while the other two teams engage one another, or keep their distance. The shield player is especially dangerous to go up against if your team is together, as the volume of cover in this play area offered them quite good protection from grenades and stray darts. I found that the best way to combat the shield is the same as a zombie shield in MHvZ - flank them (either with your partner or another team) to get an opening and hose them down. Being that they had no partner, a single hit is instant elimination - as a lone player they are much easier prey if exposed compared to any other players, who can still be revived. In one round where this occured, the shield player was the first casualty, turning the game into a regular 2v2v2. There were times when the shield player was able to fend for themselves quite well, usually by sticking with a good volume of cover that helps protect from flanking and trying not to draw too much attention to themselves. In one of the other 2v2v2v1 rounds, there were 4 players remaining - both players in my team, the shield player and one other player. I went to eliminate the remaining regular player while my teammate fought with the shield. Once I caught up with that player, I fired off a burst of darts, but before they had hit, he turned around and managed to hit me with a dart, so both of us were downed. Meanwhile my teammate was barraged by darts and managed to get a grenade throw off before getting downed. The shield player saw the grenade and went to dodge, but somehow managed to catch the grenade in his dump pouch. All four of the remaining players in this round were downed at roughly the same time, so incredibly we had a 3-way tie. I don't expect this to happen ever again, it was a pretty funny and extremely lucky/unlucky situation.
The 5v5 round was the last of the day, and was very short. My team was able to pin the enemy team down in the south western corner of the pine line. I attacked west directly along the pine line with a teammate, while the rest of our team attacked from the north. I had initially thought it was a mistake to rush the enemy team so quickly, as I was the first to engage and attacked so much earlier than the rest of the team. As it turned out, it was a good move as the rest of my team was able to catch them off guard while they were focused on me, and so got caught out of cover and mowed down quite quickly. The key here was my initial rush that stopped them from getting a better position. They should have already been moving to establish a good position, but were attacked very early by me and chose to stick together instead of leave two players to fight me and have the rest move off to engage the rest of my team. Had they moved off and acquired a better position and better cover, the game could have gone very differently.
When the extra players arrived with about an hour left of the event, we played a few VIP rounds of 4v5. I was on the team of 4, and overall it felt a little more balanced than the 3v4 Kill Confirmed rounds, though the lack of a player was still significant. Assuming the VIPs take a relatively defensive stance, the game effectively becomes 3v4, though as there are respawns, it didn't feel as unbalanced as with KC. A lone player can push up and attack the enemy, and if downed simply runs off to respawn, whereelse in KC if a lone player is downed, they are basically out of the game. Since we were at a player disadvantage, we did have to work harder to try and keep the game on level terms. Like with standard VIP, the game completely changes once one of the VIPs is eliminated. Up until that point, the game is effectively a Team Deathmatch where you're trying to down every player at least once to find the VIP. Once one of the VIPs is eliminated, that team is pretty much doomed unless they are able to eliminate the other team's VIP before losing any players. In the rare event that both VIPs are eliminated, the game becomes a Sudden Death Elimination with medics (if they're not already downed).
Making sure the VIP is as far away from combat as possible is a good idea defensively, but it is then immediately obvious who the VIP is and your team effectively has one less player for trying to take out the enemy VIP. Having a more aggressive VIP makes it much less obvious who the VIP is and better balances firefights, but naturally puts the VIP in much more danger.
In the first round, the majority of my team pushed up along the southern area, while our VIP was somewhere in the north, near the north west area. As such, we were unable to defend him effectively, and rather inconveniently, our VIP was eliminated just before two of us could respawn - as a result our team was reduced from 4 players to just 1, who was quickly overwhelmed.
In the second VIP round we played, my team won as our VIP hid inside that one particular large bush that was near our spawn, and none of the enemies had any idea where he was. This allowed us to attack with minimal defensive concern, and by progressively downing each of the enemy players, we eventually eliminated their VIP, allowing us to wipe out the rest of the players and win.
In the final round of VIP, our VIP was eliminated relatively early, however through sticking together, I was able to keep the rest of the team alive longer than usual for a VIP round (I was the medic). From the numerical disadvantage plus having to stick together for the sake of revives, we were eventually overwhelmed and were unable to eliminate the enemy VIP, though one of our teammates got close.
Overall despite the lack of players in this event, the sheer diversity of terrain in this play area made up for it. I would happily come to this play area more. I would have liked to play more objective or asymetric gametypes, but the awkward player count was not helpful in that regard.
A link to the same post on BlasterHub: link
In the 2v2v2 rounds I was paired with one particularly aggressive player who was not especially team aware. Naturally at times this was very effective, and at others got us into trouble. In one of the rounds, the two other teams engaged one another while my team was further back. My partner rushed up behind one of the teams and wiped them out before they realised he was there, and I still had not been spotted. This gave me a bit of an advantage when engaging the remaining team, and we were able to win that round. Conversely, in one other round, my partner again rushed forward, but was promptly taken down. I attempted to revive them, but as they were downed in an open area in range of several enemies, I was unable to get them revived and so I was left alone against several enemies. Especially for small team KC, knowing when to be aggressive and when to be defensive is crucial to giving yourself the best chance of victory. Excessive aggressiveness leaves you at high risk of being downed in a very exposed location or too close to enemies (and thus being unreviveable), while being overly defensive leaves you at risk of being surrounded and having nowhere to retreat to.
2v2v2v1 was the most chaotic, though was arguably a little more balanced than 2v2v2. The odd player out was allowed the use of a shield, which offered its own benefits compared to having a partner - the player alone is far more effective, however is also much more vulnerable as a single lucky shot instantly takes them out of the game. The presence of this 4th party however reduced the frequency of one team getting ganged up on - what I saw was typically one team engaging the shield player, while the other two teams engage one another, or keep their distance. The shield player is especially dangerous to go up against if your team is together, as the volume of cover in this play area offered them quite good protection from grenades and stray darts. I found that the best way to combat the shield is the same as a zombie shield in MHvZ - flank them (either with your partner or another team) to get an opening and hose them down. Being that they had no partner, a single hit is instant elimination - as a lone player they are much easier prey if exposed compared to any other players, who can still be revived. In one round where this occured, the shield player was the first casualty, turning the game into a regular 2v2v2. There were times when the shield player was able to fend for themselves quite well, usually by sticking with a good volume of cover that helps protect from flanking and trying not to draw too much attention to themselves. In one of the other 2v2v2v1 rounds, there were 4 players remaining - both players in my team, the shield player and one other player. I went to eliminate the remaining regular player while my teammate fought with the shield. Once I caught up with that player, I fired off a burst of darts, but before they had hit, he turned around and managed to hit me with a dart, so both of us were downed. Meanwhile my teammate was barraged by darts and managed to get a grenade throw off before getting downed. The shield player saw the grenade and went to dodge, but somehow managed to catch the grenade in his dump pouch. All four of the remaining players in this round were downed at roughly the same time, so incredibly we had a 3-way tie. I don't expect this to happen ever again, it was a pretty funny and extremely lucky/unlucky situation.
The 5v5 round was the last of the day, and was very short. My team was able to pin the enemy team down in the south western corner of the pine line. I attacked west directly along the pine line with a teammate, while the rest of our team attacked from the north. I had initially thought it was a mistake to rush the enemy team so quickly, as I was the first to engage and attacked so much earlier than the rest of the team. As it turned out, it was a good move as the rest of my team was able to catch them off guard while they were focused on me, and so got caught out of cover and mowed down quite quickly. The key here was my initial rush that stopped them from getting a better position. They should have already been moving to establish a good position, but were attacked very early by me and chose to stick together instead of leave two players to fight me and have the rest move off to engage the rest of my team. Had they moved off and acquired a better position and better cover, the game could have gone very differently.
When the extra players arrived with about an hour left of the event, we played a few VIP rounds of 4v5. I was on the team of 4, and overall it felt a little more balanced than the 3v4 Kill Confirmed rounds, though the lack of a player was still significant. Assuming the VIPs take a relatively defensive stance, the game effectively becomes 3v4, though as there are respawns, it didn't feel as unbalanced as with KC. A lone player can push up and attack the enemy, and if downed simply runs off to respawn, whereelse in KC if a lone player is downed, they are basically out of the game. Since we were at a player disadvantage, we did have to work harder to try and keep the game on level terms. Like with standard VIP, the game completely changes once one of the VIPs is eliminated. Up until that point, the game is effectively a Team Deathmatch where you're trying to down every player at least once to find the VIP. Once one of the VIPs is eliminated, that team is pretty much doomed unless they are able to eliminate the other team's VIP before losing any players. In the rare event that both VIPs are eliminated, the game becomes a Sudden Death Elimination with medics (if they're not already downed).
Making sure the VIP is as far away from combat as possible is a good idea defensively, but it is then immediately obvious who the VIP is and your team effectively has one less player for trying to take out the enemy VIP. Having a more aggressive VIP makes it much less obvious who the VIP is and better balances firefights, but naturally puts the VIP in much more danger.
In the first round, the majority of my team pushed up along the southern area, while our VIP was somewhere in the north, near the north west area. As such, we were unable to defend him effectively, and rather inconveniently, our VIP was eliminated just before two of us could respawn - as a result our team was reduced from 4 players to just 1, who was quickly overwhelmed.
In the second VIP round we played, my team won as our VIP hid inside that one particular large bush that was near our spawn, and none of the enemies had any idea where he was. This allowed us to attack with minimal defensive concern, and by progressively downing each of the enemy players, we eventually eliminated their VIP, allowing us to wipe out the rest of the players and win.
In the final round of VIP, our VIP was eliminated relatively early, however through sticking together, I was able to keep the rest of the team alive longer than usual for a VIP round (I was the medic). From the numerical disadvantage plus having to stick together for the sake of revives, we were eventually overwhelmed and were unable to eliminate the enemy VIP, though one of our teammates got close.
Overall despite the lack of players in this event, the sheer diversity of terrain in this play area made up for it. I would happily come to this play area more. I would have liked to play more objective or asymetric gametypes, but the awkward player count was not helpful in that regard.
A link to the same post on BlasterHub: link
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Review: Worker Flywheels
Aftermarket flywheels are another one of the developments aimed at pushing flywheel technology further. These Worker flywheels are an excellent example of such, a set of drop-in flywheels. Let's look at how these wheels differ to stock Nerf flywheels, and how performance is affected.
Worker flywheels, like Nerf flywheels, are made for specific blasters. The set I acquired is designed for Rapidstrikes, Stryfes and Rapid Reds, and will likely work for Rayvens. Demolishers have a unique flywheel style, and so have a unique Worker flywheel, as does the Modulus.
The obvious main difference is the shape of the flywheel. While Nerf's flywheel is smooth and flat (the one pictured has a build up of foam residue), the Worker flywheel is concave and toothed. Physically speaking, the component that limits how fast a single stage flywheeler can fire is friction between the dart and the flywheels. No matter how fast you spin the flywheels, as long as they're the stock Nerf ones, you're limited to somewhere around 120-130fps, depending on darts etc. Worker flywheels were presumably designed in an attempt to increase the friction between flywheel and dart, and so increase dart velocity.
A side by side look. Note that the edges of the Worker wheel bulge out noticeably, while the Nerf wheel is basically completely flat.
The diameter of the concave section of the Worker flywheel is actually only a tiny bit wider than the stock Nerf flywheel, measured from the tips of the teeth.
The edges of the Worker flywheel do bulge out a bit wider than the stock flywheel.
The Worker flywheels are also lighter than stock flywheels, though whether this mass difference is significant or not, I don't know.
Worker flywheels are a press fit onto standard 2mm shafts. They're significantly tighter than Nerf flywheels are, to the point where I have serious trouble getting them off motor shafts. This is of course very good for combat use, as you don't have to worry about the flywheels "walking" off the shafts due to torque, but very annoying for maintenence and motor replacements.
A look down the middle of the Worker wheels, showcasing the concavity and toothing of the wheels.
Flywheel cage closed up. As mentioned before, they're a straight drop in part, so nothing else needs to be done to make the Worker wheels work.
Something I was not expecting but greatly appreciate is how well "matched" the Worker flywheels are (basically how physically similar they are). They are significantly better matched than most Nerf flywheels I've come across (presumably through more precise manufacturing), and so produce a noticeably quieter and more harmonious noise. A well matched set of flywheels also provides a minor performance benefit compared to a poorly matched set of flywheels, in both muzzle velocity and accuracy.
One of the big benefits of Worker flywheels is an increased muzzle velocity, provided you have proper motors with a proper power source. A comprehensive post on Britnerf has a good amount of data and observations, and their data agrees with what data and experience I have. Said post recorded a muzzle velocity increase of ~15fps on average, and while I don't have proper data of my own to refer to, I can say that darts do fly out noticeably faster with Worker flywheels installed.
Another big benefit I saw was accuracy improvement. Previously, my Bullpup RS could achieve a spread of over a metre at just ~8m range with Kooshes, which is horrendously large and made it a nightmare for mid range combat. Switching to Worker flywheels saw the spread reduce to a little more than half a metre from the same range and darts. In the first event with the Worker wheels installed with FVJs, I saw a massive improvement in effective range, and was able to effectively engage at significantly longer distances. This accuracy improvement combined with the increased muzzle velocity make a Worker flywheeled blaster substantially more effective in combat.
The main disadvantage to the Worker wheels is that by virtue of the toothing, they tug on darts more aggressively than stock flywheels, and in particular love beheading weakly glued Kooshes - before I found a good Koosh glue, I was constantly beheading probably a third of the Kooshes that I fired (I now use Selley's Shoe Glue, and it works incredibly well). I also noticed greater wear on FVJs, just behind the tip. It's something to watch out for, especially if you use darts with poor foam or weak tip glue.
An additional interesting data point is the performance of Worker flywheels at excessively high speeds. One of the players in the Melbourne groups has XP180s on his Rapidstrike for flywheels, and runs them on 3S with Worker flys. This is excessively fast considering XP180s already get glass ceiling velocities on 2S, however the player has reported getting 10-20fps muzzle velocity gains running on 3S vs 2S, and only with Worker wheels, as stock flywheels on 3S just burn darts.
It is worth noting at this point as well that while stock Nerf flywheels build up a foam residue over time through use (which improves performance and reduces dart wear), Worker flywheels do not build up any residue whatsoever.
Worker flywheels are available on Taobao (basically Chinese eBay) for 40CNY, however unless you live in China, you'll have to organise additional handling and postage to get it to you. It cost me 30AUD for two sets including all extra fees using Buychina, one of many Taobao "agents". Overall I'd highly recommend Worker flywheels on any top notch flywheel blaster build (assuming they're compatible of course), the performance improvements and out-of-box matched flywheels make for quite significant improvements over a stock flywheel build. Worker wheels should only be added after motor replacement however, new motors with a proper power source give a far bigger performance improvement, and given how much more friction they appear to add to the system, Worker wheels may actually be detrimental to a weaker flywheel build.
I will certainly be putting Worker flywheels in any of my future flywheel builds that I intend to use a lot, unless a superior flywheel or blaster system presents itself.
Something I would like to see is a smooth concave aftermarket flywheel, as I'm not sure if the toothing is actually necessary. I would be interested to see if a smooth concave flywheel could achieve similar performance without the extra dart wear.
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Mod: MTB "Reapers" in an RS
MTB "Reapers" (name coined by Foam Data Services) are a prototype 2S 180 motor that hasn't (yet) been put into production. These samples were sent to Ryan of MTB along with samples for the MTB Hellcat, which should be arriving in the next few weeks. I acquired a pair of the Reapers, with the other pair being sent to FDS. I installed them in my 2S LiPo RS rifle.
For comparison, Blade 180s/-3240s (reference) spin at ~32kRPM and produce 429gcm at 7.4V, drawing ~22A at stall. These MTB Reapers spin at 44.4kRPM and produce 735gcm of torque at 7.4V (rated 36kRPM, ~600gcm at 6V), drawing ~45A at stall. The specs are absolutely insane, but also are sub-optimal for use on 2S as a flywheel motor. As I detailed in my post about MTB Honey Badgers, 36kRPM at 6V is quite excessive for flywheel use as it is well above the "glass ceiling" speed for single stage flywheels, and so is quite wasteful and unnecessarily loud.
Something I wanted to try was Worker wheels at high speed. As I mentioned in my Worker flywheel review, one of the guys in our Melbourne groups runs XP180s on 3S with Worker wheels in his RS and has reported significant muzzle velocity gains over 2S. XP180s on 2S is already reaching glass ceiling speed, so XP180s on 3S using conventional flywheels should have no significant gains, and will probably start melting darts. Worker flywheels seemed to prevent this dart melting as the RS in question gets quite a lot of use in Melbourne events and works really well.
I used this RS for a couple of rounds in the most recent MLF and it worked quite well. In terms of muzzle velocity, it was beating my Bullpup RS by around 10-15fps on average (both using FVJs), and thanks to the monstrous torque, spun up to full speed about as fast as Blade 180s/-3240s on 2S. In my testing with my Kooshes, it beheaded darts even more frequently than my Bullpup with Worker wheels did, tearing through even the better glued darts, including a few of the Gen 3s. I would definitely stick to very robust darts like FVJs for Reapers with Worker wheels.
Initially, I left my RS rifle on a Blade 180/-3240 pusher, however I found it to be rather slow for my liking, especially seeing as I regularly primary a Bullpup RS that does ~12dps at full charge. I decided to pick up another MTB Honey Badger for use as an RS 2S pusher, as although it was intended for a high speed 3S pusher, even on 2S it outspeeds just about every other 2S suitable motor I know of (besides Reapers, which are rated at 1kRPM more at 6V). Unfortunately, as I'd set up the pusher box for 180s, the Honey Badger tended to pop out of position after a short amount of use. I decided on a new course of action - switch the flywheel motors back to Blade 180/-3240s and the pusher to an MTB Reaper. The Reaper is rated for about the same speed as the Honey Badger, yet sports around 2.5x the torque. I wanted to switch the flywheel motors back to 3240s not just because I only have 2 Reapers, but also because I wanted to try the setup on both 2S and 3S, and Reapers on 3S would be completely and utterly insane as flywheel motors. Additionally, Blade 180/-3240s on 2S are much more usable with Kooshes than Reapers.
The results are nothing short of insane. On close to nominal 2S voltage (~7.67V), the MTB Reaper yields a ROF of around 11dps, suggesting a full charge (~8.4V) speed of around 12dps. On near full 3S voltage (~12.51V), it achieves a ROF of around 17dps, or around 1000rpm. I do question the Reaper's longevity on 3S though, so will be keeping the RS Rifle for 2S usage only. Even then, it matches the ROF of my Bullpup Rapidstrike, which I already thought was pretty darn fast. I did have to rewire for "dead centre" again though, as even on 2S the pusher is travelling way too fast to stop without overrun.
Personally I think MTB Reapers are a bit excessive for general use. They are substantially faster than Blade 180/-3240s, which themselves are at a perfect speed for flywheeling, and decent for pusher duty. While I wouldn't mind a little more speed than Blade 180/-3240s (say 33-35kRPM at 7.4V), the 40kRPM+ at 7.4V of Reapers at 2S make them unnecessarily loud, much more dart damaging and almost uncontrollably fast as pushers. While I personally like high ROF, overall I would far prefer that if MTB were to come out with a 2S intended 180, it was much closer in speed to the Blade 180/-3240. It would just be far more useful overall.
For comparison, Blade 180s/-3240s (reference) spin at ~32kRPM and produce 429gcm at 7.4V, drawing ~22A at stall. These MTB Reapers spin at 44.4kRPM and produce 735gcm of torque at 7.4V (rated 36kRPM, ~600gcm at 6V), drawing ~45A at stall. The specs are absolutely insane, but also are sub-optimal for use on 2S as a flywheel motor. As I detailed in my post about MTB Honey Badgers, 36kRPM at 6V is quite excessive for flywheel use as it is well above the "glass ceiling" speed for single stage flywheels, and so is quite wasteful and unnecessarily loud.
Something I wanted to try was Worker wheels at high speed. As I mentioned in my Worker flywheel review, one of the guys in our Melbourne groups runs XP180s on 3S with Worker wheels in his RS and has reported significant muzzle velocity gains over 2S. XP180s on 2S is already reaching glass ceiling speed, so XP180s on 3S using conventional flywheels should have no significant gains, and will probably start melting darts. Worker flywheels seemed to prevent this dart melting as the RS in question gets quite a lot of use in Melbourne events and works really well.
I used this RS for a couple of rounds in the most recent MLF and it worked quite well. In terms of muzzle velocity, it was beating my Bullpup RS by around 10-15fps on average (both using FVJs), and thanks to the monstrous torque, spun up to full speed about as fast as Blade 180s/-3240s on 2S. In my testing with my Kooshes, it beheaded darts even more frequently than my Bullpup with Worker wheels did, tearing through even the better glued darts, including a few of the Gen 3s. I would definitely stick to very robust darts like FVJs for Reapers with Worker wheels.
Initially, I left my RS rifle on a Blade 180/-3240 pusher, however I found it to be rather slow for my liking, especially seeing as I regularly primary a Bullpup RS that does ~12dps at full charge. I decided to pick up another MTB Honey Badger for use as an RS 2S pusher, as although it was intended for a high speed 3S pusher, even on 2S it outspeeds just about every other 2S suitable motor I know of (besides Reapers, which are rated at 1kRPM more at 6V). Unfortunately, as I'd set up the pusher box for 180s, the Honey Badger tended to pop out of position after a short amount of use. I decided on a new course of action - switch the flywheel motors back to Blade 180/-3240s and the pusher to an MTB Reaper. The Reaper is rated for about the same speed as the Honey Badger, yet sports around 2.5x the torque. I wanted to switch the flywheel motors back to 3240s not just because I only have 2 Reapers, but also because I wanted to try the setup on both 2S and 3S, and Reapers on 3S would be completely and utterly insane as flywheel motors. Additionally, Blade 180/-3240s on 2S are much more usable with Kooshes than Reapers.
The results are nothing short of insane. On close to nominal 2S voltage (~7.67V), the MTB Reaper yields a ROF of around 11dps, suggesting a full charge (~8.4V) speed of around 12dps. On near full 3S voltage (~12.51V), it achieves a ROF of around 17dps, or around 1000rpm. I do question the Reaper's longevity on 3S though, so will be keeping the RS Rifle for 2S usage only. Even then, it matches the ROF of my Bullpup Rapidstrike, which I already thought was pretty darn fast. I did have to rewire for "dead centre" again though, as even on 2S the pusher is travelling way too fast to stop without overrun.
Personally I think MTB Reapers are a bit excessive for general use. They are substantially faster than Blade 180/-3240s, which themselves are at a perfect speed for flywheeling, and decent for pusher duty. While I wouldn't mind a little more speed than Blade 180/-3240s (say 33-35kRPM at 7.4V), the 40kRPM+ at 7.4V of Reapers at 2S make them unnecessarily loud, much more dart damaging and almost uncontrollably fast as pushers. While I personally like high ROF, overall I would far prefer that if MTB were to come out with a 2S intended 180, it was much closer in speed to the Blade 180/-3240. It would just be far more useful overall.
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Melbourne Nerf Wars Game Report 29/5/16: Stryfe Dominance, Rapidstrike Woes
My first time with MNW, it was a somewhat different experience to what I get at MLF.
Base rules:
MNW has a document on the rules here, but I'll go through them anyway. They're basically the same as MLF, with a few extras.
If a player is hit with a dart, they are downed ("hit" and "downed" are often used interchangeably). When downed, they can choose to wait for a medic, or go to respawn (if the gamemode has respawns). If the downed player chooses to respawn, once they move from their spot they can no longer be revived by a medic.
A grenade hit forces a player to respawn, and they cannot be revived by a medic.
A melee tag also forces a player to respawn. If a melee weapon is not available, the attacking player can simply tag the target player with their hand.
A shield blocks darts, but breaks when hit by a grenade - the shield must be dropped immediately and cannot be used for the rest of the round. There was only one available so it was only used for assymetric gamemodes.
A medic revives a downed player by placing their hand on the player, counting to 3 (at a reasonable speed). Once the countdown is complete, the downed player is revived. Up to 2 per team, depending on gamemode and team size.
There are several other special ammo types and "team items" that weren't used this event, so I won't mention them here.
Gamemodes:
The gamemodes are very similar to the ones at MLF, though we played a lot of instant elimination games.
Capture the Flag (CTF) - classic gamemode, steal the enemy's flag and return it to your flag at your base to win. Drop the flag if downed while holding it.
Team Deathmatch/Elimination (TDM) - Last team standing wins. May or may not have medics. May or may not have ammo limits.
Black Hawk Down - assymetric gametype with two teams: the smaller Special Forces (SF) and larger Insurgents. The SF win if they eliminate all Insurgents or extract the VIP. The Insurgents win if they eliminate all SF, or capture the SF's flag. The SF players are all medics, while the Insurgents have a single medic. An Insurgent melee attack is a suicide attack and eliminates both the SF player and Insurgent.
*NEW RULES* There is an additional SF player labelled the VIP. They start in a set location and are unable to do anything (and are untargetable) until tagged by an SF player, at which point they join the SF team as a normal player. If the VIP reaches the extraction point, SF win even if there are surviving Insurgents.
Blasters:
Since this was my first MNW event, I haven't seen firsthand what sort of blasters are common. I imagine it wouldn't be too different to MLF since I've seen a lot of these at MLF, with the exception of allowing more powerful blasters.
N-Strike Longstrike (XBZ air tank, compressor) - a blaster that actually lives up to the sniper aesthetic, it's extremely powerful, and was the most powerful blaster today. Due to a shorter than ideal barrel, it's not particularly accurate, and being an air blaster is also far slower to fire than any other blaster. A useful support and potshot blaster, especially at surprising or suppressing enemies, but overall not that effective in direct combat.
Elite Rapidstrike (various motors, LiPos) - didn't see many of them today, only my two and one other RS. They worked fairly well, high ROF making them excellent for close-mid range but rather lacking at longer range as usual.
My Bullpup RS decided to screw itself in the middle of thesecond game, with the cycle control switch straight up breaking. While it is still usable, the pusher coasts to a stop instead of braking when it reaches rest position, which I absolutely cannot handle as I like to fire bursts. I have replaced the switch and it works fine now, thankfully it's something I can easily fix. I believe my pusher motor may be damaged however.
My RS Rifle worked excellently for the rest of the event, up until the very end when the pusher decided to jam somehow. Thankfully the dead centre wiring meant that the pusher wouldn't be trying to destroy itself unless the trigger is pressed, and I was able to fix it up once arriving home. In terms of performance it felt almost identical to my Bullpup, with the same sort of firepower and roughly the same ROF. As such it makes an excellent backup blaster, but I'd personally rather run my Bullpup given the choice.
My Bullpup RS decided to screw itself in the middle of thesecond game, with the cycle control switch straight up breaking. While it is still usable, the pusher coasts to a stop instead of braking when it reaches rest position, which I absolutely cannot handle as I like to fire bursts. I have replaced the switch and it works fine now, thankfully it's something I can easily fix. I believe my pusher motor may be damaged however.
My RS Rifle worked excellently for the rest of the event, up until the very end when the pusher decided to jam somehow. Thankfully the dead centre wiring meant that the pusher wouldn't be trying to destroy itself unless the trigger is pressed, and I was able to fix it up once arriving home. In terms of performance it felt almost identical to my Bullpup, with the same sort of firepower and roughly the same ROF. As such it makes an excellent backup blaster, but I'd personally rather run my Bullpup given the choice.
N-Strike Longshot (exact mods unknown, but strong springs and pump grips) - powerful and relatively accurate blasters, they worked very well at longer ranges. They are rather slow to fire so are a lot less effective against multiple enemies in closer range.
Elite Retaliator (pump grips, various internal upgrades) - saw a couple of different ones today. The two standard ones worked as per usual, decently powerful with an ok ROF, not especially notable but a relatively good and easy to build springer.
There was an Artifact breeched pump Retal at the event, which was cool to see, the first time I've seen one in action. It appeared to have better range and superior accuracy compared to the standard pump Rets, but of course had to use half length darts.
My personal Gavinfuzzy gripped pump Ret seemed to work better today than the recent MLF event, though still a little too inconsistent for my liking.
My personal Gavinfuzzy gripped pump Ret seemed to work better today than the recent MLF event, though still a little too inconsistent for my liking.
Elite Stryfe (various motors, LiPos or otherwise) - there were a whole slew of these around, ranging from just bare Stryfes with a stock to full aesthetic kits. Good all round blasters as usual, solid range and good ROF, very effective entry level blasters.
We used the same park as the first MLF play area, however we used the area just north-west of it. This area has a similar density and style of tree cover, though obviously has a different arrangement of trees. This area's trees are more evenly spread out and are not aligned into neat rows, though there were still a fair number of open areas. Temperature peaked around 15 degrees C, quite a cool day. Playercount peaked at around 17 or so, which was more than enough for some relatively balanced team games.
It's also worth noting something about the overall organisation of the game. At MLF events, downtime is generally kept to a minimum between games, ignoring dart sweeps and the lunch break of course. We get a lot of games done at MLF. MHvZ events typically don't have too much downtime outside of main dart sweeps and the lunch break,as those players who need to reload a lot of darts can usually do so quickly, and the players have plenty of time to converse during games due to the nature of HvZ games. At this MNW event however, there was a lot moredowntime of people standing around talking rather than reloading and organising for the next game. I'm all for having breaks for players to socialise and rest in, however I also attend these eventsfor Nerf games, so I expect to play a good amount of games. I also wanted to see how MNW differed from MLF, particularly with all the extras, yet none of the new extras were brought so I didn't get to see any of them in use. There were rocket launchers (which differ from grenades in that a rocket hit also removes the player from the game for 3 minutes), but noone bothered using them as for a majority of the games, there was no realreason to use them.
It's also worth noting something about the overall organisation of the game. At MLF events, downtime is generally kept to a minimum between games, ignoring dart sweeps and the lunch break of course. We get a lot of games done at MLF. MHvZ events typically don't have too much downtime outside of main dart sweeps and the lunch break,as those players who need to reload a lot of darts can usually do so quickly, and the players have plenty of time to converse during games due to the nature of HvZ games. At this MNW event however, there was a lot moredowntime of people standing around talking rather than reloading and organising for the next game. I'm all for having breaks for players to socialise and rest in, however I also attend these eventsfor Nerf games, so I expect to play a good amount of games. I also wanted to see how MNW differed from MLF, particularly with all the extras, yet none of the new extras were brought so I didn't get to see any of them in use. There were rocket launchers (which differ from grenades in that a rocket hit also removes the player from the game for 3 minutes), but noone bothered using them as for a majority of the games, there was no realreason to use them.
We started off with some CTF rounds, which went mostly as expected.
In the first, I started in the north east and went directly for the enemy flag. Because of the flag and tree arrangement, my team had one tree just to the east of the flag to take cover behind, while the other team had just one tree to the south. The two trees were not very close together, so my teammate and I suppressed the enemy players while I grabbed the flag and ran. Our flag had actually been moved a bit away from our flag base and there were several enemies very close to our flag, so I hung back, trying to help clear out the enemies. In contrast with the enemy flag base, our flag base had several nearby tree groups, with one directly west (right in line with the enemy spawn), and a couple more on the east (which we used to defend). There were several enemies stacked up at the trees just west, and they had a perfect line of fire to our flag base. Our flag had been moved to the base of this tree group, however it was on the east side, easily within reach. Eventually I was able to get an opening and get both flags to our flag base to win.
In the second, my team started in the south west. I ran straight along the south edge up to the enemy flag, however got heavily pinned down before being able to reach the flag. It was during this engagement that my Bullpup RS switch broke, so I was forced to fire off a lot more darts than I would have liked. I was eventually downed trying to steal the flag, and in my run back to respawn, dumped my Bullpup and picked up my RS Rifle. By the time I returned to play, one of my teammates had managed to steal the flag, so I ran up to help cover him while he successfully returned the flag.
The key in both rounds was coordination. In the first round, I likely would have had a much harder time trying to steal the flag if I didn't have backup to help suppress. Likewise I would have struggled to return both flags later on if I hadn't had support from teammates to give me the opening. Better coordination of the enemy team would have made my job in both situations much harder, and given that they were already able to move our flag a short distance, with good coordination they may have been able to actually win that round.In the second round, had my teammates not quickly moved up to reinforce the position near where I was first downed, the enemy team would likely have been able to reestablish a defence, thus significantly prolonging the game and giving them a chance to win. Instead, my team was able to keep up the pressure and steal and capture the flag.
After these two rounds, I sat out of the next few seeing if I could repair the Bullpup, while also helping another player figure out the problem with his Stryfe. As soon as I got the Bullpup open, it was immediately obvious that the problem was a stuck/broken switch which I knew I would need to replace. I closed up my Bullpup and got ready for the next round. I believe I missed a couple of VIP rounds as I vaguely remember people shouting about VIPs getting downed, but I was too focused on the Bullpup to be sure.
We played a number of relatively short Team Deathmatches.We played two different variants, one with two teams where players only get a single 18 clip (mag) and can't scavenge, and another with numerous small teams and a single medic for each team.
I'm going to be frank, I absolutely despise games with low ammo count when scavenging is not allowed. I generally don't like low ammo games overall, but there are instances where I will accept it (for instance my own Octozombies gamemode). This is not one of them.I also absolutely hate any games with instant elimination and no chance of respawn/revive or post-elimination participation (ie zombies). These sorts of rules leave far too much to chance, given how inaccurate and inconsistent Nerf darts can be, as well as the heavily limited ammo count. Instant elimination with limited ammo also heavily encourages camping and overly defensive play, and severely punishes offensive play, which completely and utterly ruins the game dynamic.
Nerf, like just about every other form of combat (real or otherwise), should be about balancing offence and defence. Overly offensive? You over-extend and get wiped out. Toodefensive? You get cornered and annihilated. In this limited ammo TDM, if you play offensively, you put yourself at serious (almost guaranteed) risk of being an early casualty, and also go through far more ammo. To close distance on enemies, you must rely purely on speed and luck, as significant suppressive fire is impractical given the ammo cap, so there is a very good chance that you'll get eliminated. Sure you might get a couple of good hits, but because of the sheer size of teams, chances are you'll be running very low on ammo for the last few enemy players. If you instead play extremely defensively and avoid all early conflict, you preserve the majority of your ammo for late game combat. From that, you'll usually have a significant advantage against any remaining enemies, as besides potentially having numerical advantage, they will likely have far less ammo and so will have a much harder time getting a good shot at you.
The massive luck element and lack of reviving also means that there is much less incentive to work together as a team. Since most players will be relatively cautious about engaging, a lone player can much more effectively engage multiple enemies than in other team games such as CTF or VIP.
Obviously there are disadvantages to being defensively, primarily that if the majority of your team plays defensively, you're at serious risk of being flanked, but in instant elimination TDM with very limited ammo, there's little else that will pose a significant problem. Since playing offensively puts players at such a significant disadvantage, teams are thus encouraged to play quite defensively. Which is extremely bad, especially for TDM. If I wanted to sit around not actually playing Nerf, I would stay at home on computer playing games or something. That the gamemode promotes stagnation is in itself a massive red flag that there is something seriously wrong.
The game also doesn't promote teamwork anywhere near as much as just about all other gamemodes. With a lack of ammo, you can't rely on teammates for suppressive fire, and the instant elimination means that a lone player can easily do nearly as much damage as a pair of players. Furthermore, without any reviving, there is no need for players to rely on teammates. TDM is a team game only in name and targets, and there is not a lot of actual teamwork.
Nevertheless, we played several rounds of this 18 dart TDM with 2 teams of ~8 or 9, and they were total chaos. The winner was consistently someone who had stayed back, out of combat, not contributing anything to the game until the very end. They would consistently be confronted by enemies who *had* been contributing to the game, and as such were low on ammo and so couldn't provide a significant challenge. This, in my opinion, is completely stupid. A player should not be rewarded for doing nothing.
There are a huge number of changes I can think of that would make the game better. Things like allowing players to refill their clip (mag) if they get a successful hit (so as to promote offensive play), or maybe allowing players to reload from locations specifically designed to be highly contested and vulnerable (again to promote offensive play), or maybe not playing instant elimination TDM with low ammo cap at all. I cannot think of a Nerf gamemode I enjoy less than a game where engaging in combat puts you at a disadvantage, a game where camping and avoiding combat entirely increases your chance of victory. I would be content to never play this gamemode again.
TDM with medic on the other hand I find to be far more reasonable and enjoyable. We played with 4 teams of 3 or 4 players, which worked decently, though was still similarly chaotic. The presence of the medic allows for a much better game dynamic, as there is less worry about being taken out by a lucky shot, and far more opportunity to be rewarded for offensive play as you can be revived if you get downed. A smaller team also allows for much easier team coordination and communication, which made for more competitive and more interesting games. The two games that we played had very contrasting results for my team.
In the first round, my team was the first to be eliminated. We were pinned down in a relatively poor position facing off against one team, leaving us highly vulnerable to another one of the teams. While we were busy engaged with this one team, another player from one of the other teams rushed in behind us and managed to eliminate the majority of us before we could turn to return fire. The survivors were wiped out by advancing enemy players. I believe we failed to notice this player due to poor coordination resulting in most of us focusing forward, and noone watching our flanks. Even if we had spotted and engaged this player however, my team was caught in quite a poor position and could have been easily wiped out.
In the second round, my team actually won. An early potshot by our medic's Longstrike caught an enemy player by surprise, allowing us to rush up and take down a good portion of that one team. Though the survivors were able to flee, we pursued and eventually eliminated them. By this time, one of the teams was down to just one or two players, while the other was at full strength. My team ended up being attacked by all other players in a ~6v4, during which my team was pushed back, and one of our teammates was downed and eliminated. During this conflict we were able to eliminate the half strength team, improving our odds to a 4v3. After regrouping, my team split up to flank and attack the remaining team, with our medic staying back to draw fire and fire off potshots, while my remaining teammate and I ran around the side of the enemy team. A combined effort involving a lucky potshot or two from our medic plus some heavy suppressive fire allowed me to get in close enough to hose down all the remaining enemy players.
I've said this many times throughout many game reports, but I cannot stress it enough: teamwork and coordination is the key to victory. In the first round, we were poorly coordinated and placed so were highly vulnerable to flanking. In the second round, better team coordination allowed us to much more effectively combat enemies, and gave us a chance for survival even against unfavourable odds. Though we still lost a player in that significantly unfavourable conflict, a well coordinated attack allowed us to catch the remaining enemy players in a relatively poor position and eliminate them all.
We played a few Black Hawk Down rounds, which went about the same as they normally do in MLF events. We played with 5 SF, 11 Insurgents and 1 VIP. The addition of the VIP was a nice objective addition, however was not utilised anywhere near as well as it should have been.
In two of the three rounds we played, both teams were poorly coordinated and so the Insurgents won through sheer numerical and firepower advantage. The Insurgent teams were especially poorly coordinated, all too often I would see Insurgents get downed in an important location, with the medic far off, not really helping the team. Conversely, at times I also saw very poorly coordinated SF teams, with players running off on their own, or SF players not going for revives on relatively easy to reach downed teammates. The Insurgents also seemed to heavily underestimate the value of the VIP and generally didn't put much effort into defending them. The addition of an extra player is huge for the SF team considering their numerical disadvantage and ability to revive one another. The VIP was placed in a relatively exposed location, relatively easy for the Insurgents to defend and somewhat hard for the SF team to reach *if* the Insurgents are protecting it.
I feel like I say this every time, but again the only SF team to win was the one that worked together and was coordinated. Against significantly superior numbers, the SF team have a massive disadvantage if they choose to engage in a straight firefight, so their best chance of victory is to progressively combat small groups of Insurgents. If some of the SF players can down a whole group of Insurgents, they get presented with a situation that is pretty much completely favourable. If the Insurgent medic chooses to go for revives, they make themselves quite an obvious target, and as I've detailed in previous game reports, if the Insurgent medic is downed, the SF team has massively improved odds. If the Insurgent medic chooses not to go for the revives, the SF team can move up and eliminate all the downed Insurgents, thus reducing the numerical advantage of the Insurgents.
In the one round that the SF team won, they were able to down a significant number of Insurgents, and the Insurgent medic chose not to go for revives, and so the SF team was able to push up and engage the remaining Insurgents on a much more equal footing. From there, simple good teamwork allowed them to down the rest of the Insurgents, who now no longer had a significant numerical advantage.
Overall my first MNW experience was enjoyable, however I feel there were several aspects where they event could have been improved significantly. I absolutely despise low ammo and instant elimination games, and though I still enjoy participating in them, I enjoy them far less than a good team game like Kill Confirmed, Black Hawk Down, or just about anything else really. I would also have preferred to have a lot less downtime and more game time, and would have liked to see some of the extras that differentiate MNW from ordinary games.
In the first, I started in the north east and went directly for the enemy flag. Because of the flag and tree arrangement, my team had one tree just to the east of the flag to take cover behind, while the other team had just one tree to the south. The two trees were not very close together, so my teammate and I suppressed the enemy players while I grabbed the flag and ran. Our flag had actually been moved a bit away from our flag base and there were several enemies very close to our flag, so I hung back, trying to help clear out the enemies. In contrast with the enemy flag base, our flag base had several nearby tree groups, with one directly west (right in line with the enemy spawn), and a couple more on the east (which we used to defend). There were several enemies stacked up at the trees just west, and they had a perfect line of fire to our flag base. Our flag had been moved to the base of this tree group, however it was on the east side, easily within reach. Eventually I was able to get an opening and get both flags to our flag base to win.
In the second, my team started in the south west. I ran straight along the south edge up to the enemy flag, however got heavily pinned down before being able to reach the flag. It was during this engagement that my Bullpup RS switch broke, so I was forced to fire off a lot more darts than I would have liked. I was eventually downed trying to steal the flag, and in my run back to respawn, dumped my Bullpup and picked up my RS Rifle. By the time I returned to play, one of my teammates had managed to steal the flag, so I ran up to help cover him while he successfully returned the flag.
The key in both rounds was coordination. In the first round, I likely would have had a much harder time trying to steal the flag if I didn't have backup to help suppress. Likewise I would have struggled to return both flags later on if I hadn't had support from teammates to give me the opening. Better coordination of the enemy team would have made my job in both situations much harder, and given that they were already able to move our flag a short distance, with good coordination they may have been able to actually win that round.In the second round, had my teammates not quickly moved up to reinforce the position near where I was first downed, the enemy team would likely have been able to reestablish a defence, thus significantly prolonging the game and giving them a chance to win. Instead, my team was able to keep up the pressure and steal and capture the flag.
After these two rounds, I sat out of the next few seeing if I could repair the Bullpup, while also helping another player figure out the problem with his Stryfe. As soon as I got the Bullpup open, it was immediately obvious that the problem was a stuck/broken switch which I knew I would need to replace. I closed up my Bullpup and got ready for the next round. I believe I missed a couple of VIP rounds as I vaguely remember people shouting about VIPs getting downed, but I was too focused on the Bullpup to be sure.
We played a number of relatively short Team Deathmatches.We played two different variants, one with two teams where players only get a single 18 clip (mag) and can't scavenge, and another with numerous small teams and a single medic for each team.
I'm going to be frank, I absolutely despise games with low ammo count when scavenging is not allowed. I generally don't like low ammo games overall, but there are instances where I will accept it (for instance my own Octozombies gamemode). This is not one of them.I also absolutely hate any games with instant elimination and no chance of respawn/revive or post-elimination participation (ie zombies). These sorts of rules leave far too much to chance, given how inaccurate and inconsistent Nerf darts can be, as well as the heavily limited ammo count. Instant elimination with limited ammo also heavily encourages camping and overly defensive play, and severely punishes offensive play, which completely and utterly ruins the game dynamic.
Nerf, like just about every other form of combat (real or otherwise), should be about balancing offence and defence. Overly offensive? You over-extend and get wiped out. Toodefensive? You get cornered and annihilated. In this limited ammo TDM, if you play offensively, you put yourself at serious (almost guaranteed) risk of being an early casualty, and also go through far more ammo. To close distance on enemies, you must rely purely on speed and luck, as significant suppressive fire is impractical given the ammo cap, so there is a very good chance that you'll get eliminated. Sure you might get a couple of good hits, but because of the sheer size of teams, chances are you'll be running very low on ammo for the last few enemy players. If you instead play extremely defensively and avoid all early conflict, you preserve the majority of your ammo for late game combat. From that, you'll usually have a significant advantage against any remaining enemies, as besides potentially having numerical advantage, they will likely have far less ammo and so will have a much harder time getting a good shot at you.
The massive luck element and lack of reviving also means that there is much less incentive to work together as a team. Since most players will be relatively cautious about engaging, a lone player can much more effectively engage multiple enemies than in other team games such as CTF or VIP.
Obviously there are disadvantages to being defensively, primarily that if the majority of your team plays defensively, you're at serious risk of being flanked, but in instant elimination TDM with very limited ammo, there's little else that will pose a significant problem. Since playing offensively puts players at such a significant disadvantage, teams are thus encouraged to play quite defensively. Which is extremely bad, especially for TDM. If I wanted to sit around not actually playing Nerf, I would stay at home on computer playing games or something. That the gamemode promotes stagnation is in itself a massive red flag that there is something seriously wrong.
The game also doesn't promote teamwork anywhere near as much as just about all other gamemodes. With a lack of ammo, you can't rely on teammates for suppressive fire, and the instant elimination means that a lone player can easily do nearly as much damage as a pair of players. Furthermore, without any reviving, there is no need for players to rely on teammates. TDM is a team game only in name and targets, and there is not a lot of actual teamwork.
Nevertheless, we played several rounds of this 18 dart TDM with 2 teams of ~8 or 9, and they were total chaos. The winner was consistently someone who had stayed back, out of combat, not contributing anything to the game until the very end. They would consistently be confronted by enemies who *had* been contributing to the game, and as such were low on ammo and so couldn't provide a significant challenge. This, in my opinion, is completely stupid. A player should not be rewarded for doing nothing.
There are a huge number of changes I can think of that would make the game better. Things like allowing players to refill their clip (mag) if they get a successful hit (so as to promote offensive play), or maybe allowing players to reload from locations specifically designed to be highly contested and vulnerable (again to promote offensive play), or maybe not playing instant elimination TDM with low ammo cap at all. I cannot think of a Nerf gamemode I enjoy less than a game where engaging in combat puts you at a disadvantage, a game where camping and avoiding combat entirely increases your chance of victory. I would be content to never play this gamemode again.
TDM with medic on the other hand I find to be far more reasonable and enjoyable. We played with 4 teams of 3 or 4 players, which worked decently, though was still similarly chaotic. The presence of the medic allows for a much better game dynamic, as there is less worry about being taken out by a lucky shot, and far more opportunity to be rewarded for offensive play as you can be revived if you get downed. A smaller team also allows for much easier team coordination and communication, which made for more competitive and more interesting games. The two games that we played had very contrasting results for my team.
In the first round, my team was the first to be eliminated. We were pinned down in a relatively poor position facing off against one team, leaving us highly vulnerable to another one of the teams. While we were busy engaged with this one team, another player from one of the other teams rushed in behind us and managed to eliminate the majority of us before we could turn to return fire. The survivors were wiped out by advancing enemy players. I believe we failed to notice this player due to poor coordination resulting in most of us focusing forward, and noone watching our flanks. Even if we had spotted and engaged this player however, my team was caught in quite a poor position and could have been easily wiped out.
In the second round, my team actually won. An early potshot by our medic's Longstrike caught an enemy player by surprise, allowing us to rush up and take down a good portion of that one team. Though the survivors were able to flee, we pursued and eventually eliminated them. By this time, one of the teams was down to just one or two players, while the other was at full strength. My team ended up being attacked by all other players in a ~6v4, during which my team was pushed back, and one of our teammates was downed and eliminated. During this conflict we were able to eliminate the half strength team, improving our odds to a 4v3. After regrouping, my team split up to flank and attack the remaining team, with our medic staying back to draw fire and fire off potshots, while my remaining teammate and I ran around the side of the enemy team. A combined effort involving a lucky potshot or two from our medic plus some heavy suppressive fire allowed me to get in close enough to hose down all the remaining enemy players.
I've said this many times throughout many game reports, but I cannot stress it enough: teamwork and coordination is the key to victory. In the first round, we were poorly coordinated and placed so were highly vulnerable to flanking. In the second round, better team coordination allowed us to much more effectively combat enemies, and gave us a chance for survival even against unfavourable odds. Though we still lost a player in that significantly unfavourable conflict, a well coordinated attack allowed us to catch the remaining enemy players in a relatively poor position and eliminate them all.
We played a few Black Hawk Down rounds, which went about the same as they normally do in MLF events. We played with 5 SF, 11 Insurgents and 1 VIP. The addition of the VIP was a nice objective addition, however was not utilised anywhere near as well as it should have been.
In two of the three rounds we played, both teams were poorly coordinated and so the Insurgents won through sheer numerical and firepower advantage. The Insurgent teams were especially poorly coordinated, all too often I would see Insurgents get downed in an important location, with the medic far off, not really helping the team. Conversely, at times I also saw very poorly coordinated SF teams, with players running off on their own, or SF players not going for revives on relatively easy to reach downed teammates. The Insurgents also seemed to heavily underestimate the value of the VIP and generally didn't put much effort into defending them. The addition of an extra player is huge for the SF team considering their numerical disadvantage and ability to revive one another. The VIP was placed in a relatively exposed location, relatively easy for the Insurgents to defend and somewhat hard for the SF team to reach *if* the Insurgents are protecting it.
I feel like I say this every time, but again the only SF team to win was the one that worked together and was coordinated. Against significantly superior numbers, the SF team have a massive disadvantage if they choose to engage in a straight firefight, so their best chance of victory is to progressively combat small groups of Insurgents. If some of the SF players can down a whole group of Insurgents, they get presented with a situation that is pretty much completely favourable. If the Insurgent medic chooses to go for revives, they make themselves quite an obvious target, and as I've detailed in previous game reports, if the Insurgent medic is downed, the SF team has massively improved odds. If the Insurgent medic chooses not to go for the revives, the SF team can move up and eliminate all the downed Insurgents, thus reducing the numerical advantage of the Insurgents.
In the one round that the SF team won, they were able to down a significant number of Insurgents, and the Insurgent medic chose not to go for revives, and so the SF team was able to push up and engage the remaining Insurgents on a much more equal footing. From there, simple good teamwork allowed them to down the rest of the Insurgents, who now no longer had a significant numerical advantage.
Overall my first MNW experience was enjoyable, however I feel there were several aspects where they event could have been improved significantly. I absolutely despise low ammo and instant elimination games, and though I still enjoy participating in them, I enjoy them far less than a good team game like Kill Confirmed, Black Hawk Down, or just about anything else really. I would also have preferred to have a lot less downtime and more game time, and would have liked to see some of the extras that differentiate MNW from ordinary games.
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Mod: Quad Rocket Lanard Shotgun
The Lanard Shotgun/Air Zone Tripleshot is an older pump action blaster that had a turret of 4 sets of 3 darts, and it was intended to shoot out 3 darts at a time. Though in stock form it was pretty awful, a huge plunger tube and surprisingly strong stock spring gave it massive mod potential, and there are a huge number of examples of modded LSG/AZTS's that can be found with a simple google search. I wanted to do something different in the same vein as my triple rocket Titan - a pump action quad rocket blaster.
Do note that my particular model is specifically a Lanard Shotgun, I don't know how different it is to the similarly coloured Air Zone Triple Shot.
The blaster uses 4 rocket pegs made out of 16mm and 20mm UPVC/electrical conduit. The 16mm fits Demo rockets decently, and sleeves tightly in the 20mm which makes for a tougher piece. Note that the rocket pegs are spread out further than the turret is couplered - this is because the couplers are far too close together to fit 4 rockets on.
Naturally the rocket pegs aren't perfectly straight, but they're good enough for my purposes (read: goofing around, not trying to actually hit anything). Since the rocket pegs are 16mm UPVC/electrical conduit, they *can* be used for firing darts, however the rocket pegs are far shorter than the ideal barrel length for firing single darts.
Loaded with rockets. Rocket performance is not especially good as the plunger to turret seal is not very good, and the spring load is not particularly strong for an LSG build (just stock + stock LS). Ranges can be anything from 8 to 15 metres, depending on how the rocket behaves in flight. Accuracy is non-existant, there is absolutely no consistency at all. I wasn't going for accuracy though, and the range is good enough for me to consider this thing a success - it fires rockets sufficiently far for my goofing around purposes.
The LSG uses a set of cut down 20mm UPVC couplers. I didn't install them, they were already on the blaster when I purchased it second hand, which made my job a lot easier.
Naturally being couplered, the LSG can be set up for all kinds of barrel systems. I decided to build a set of multi-dart firing attachments, a setup fitting of its Shotgun design and name.
I was originally intending to build 4 dart absolvers, however the spacing didn't work out nicely and the airflow into each barrel was going to be very small, so I settled on 3 dart absolvers. These aren't anything special really.
The stock LSG/AZTS was originally set up to fire 3 darts, however its barrel system was incredibly poor resulting in extremely poor performance. This setup gets reasonable ranges with both Kooshes and FVJs, anywhere from 10 to 15 metres depending on the darts. Spread is also dependent on the exact darts used.
I intend to try this setup out at Equalz Dee events, where it gets pitted against things like stock Hammershots and Strongarms. The relatively long and heavy prime does slow it down considerably compared to anything stock, so I'm hoping it won't be significantly, if at all, overpowered. I might also give it a go at MHvZ for a bit of fun, maybe in the dart sweep round or as a semi-goof blaster in Secret VIP or something.
Since the couplers are universal, mix-and-matching attachments is perfectly possible. Since the turret rotation is linked to the pump, pumping multiple times will prime the blaster as well as rotate the turret multiple times. It would be perfectly reasonable and rather easy for me to build a set of longer barrels for my LSG, but that doesn't suit my style of play.
Overall this mod project was mostly successful. While I was hoping to have 4 dart bursts, the 3 dart absolvers work very well and the rocket firing works well enough. I'm pretty happy with it overall, it's a lot of fun to use.
As a semi-related final note, this is how I'm currently marking my rockets, pending getting a good template to colour with or a nice stamp or something.
EDIT: Now with firing vid.
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Mod: MTB Hellcats in Rapidstrike
MTB Hellcats are MTB's first foray into 180s. They're intended for use on 3S, spinning around 36kRPM at 12V like Rhinos, but generating around 3x the torque (exact numbers can be found here). I picked up a pair to replace the Falcons that were in my Bullpup RS.
Wired up and in the flywheel cage, nothing special.
Slot cut out for them in the shell, pretty standard.
I've used a Jodocast designed motor cover printed by Hobbymods, as I much prefer the tapers and smoother lines of it compared to the BSUK one on my RS rifle. Nothing special about installation really, no different to any other 180 motor.
I didn't have to change my LiPo, as it puts out enough current to run Hellcats without issue. It's a Turnigy Nanotech 1000mAh 45-90C 3S, so can put out 90A for a short time, or 45A continuously. Hellcats draw around 25A each at full 3S voltage (~12.6V), plus say another 15A worst case for the pusher, totalling a ~65A maximum draw for the circuit, which is well below my LiPo's maximum.
I'm currently running the Hellcats in my Bullpup with Worker flywheels and a Blade 180/-3240 motor in the pusher, awaiting a replacement -3250 motor. The first thing I noticed was spool up time. My RS rifle runs Blade 180/-3240 flywheel motors so I'd had experience with fast spool time, but Hellcats are even more impressive. They spool up to full speed pretty much instantly, to the point where the time they are revving up for is almost indistinguishable, more so even than Blade 180s/-3240s. Additionally, Hellcats seem very well balanced, they seem to produce a slightly quieter and more harmonious noise than my old Falcons did. Certainly quieter and more refined than Banshees or Honey Badgers, or even my RS rifle on 2S. Hellcats achieve glass ceiling velocities easily, as demonstrated by BlasterTech's chrono test:
I used my Bullpup for much of the MHvZ event earlier today, and they performed excellently. Rev up time was basically zero. I was able to perform reaction shots very effectively and had no trouble with full auto, even with the -3240 pusher which is faster than what I usually run. Muzzle velocity appeared to be unchanged (at least not reduced) compared to Falcons, and was still very effective. Overall it was entirely positive, and I experienced no problems whatsoever.
My experience with Hellcats has been extremely good - instant spool up, good balance and excellent performance, there's a lot to like about them, with the only downside being the typical 180 downside of having to cut the blaster's shell. I wholeheartedly recommend them as flywheel motors, and I daresay that outside of niche 2S applications, Hellcats are completely superior to Blade 180s/-3240s.
Wired up and in the flywheel cage, nothing special.
Slot cut out for them in the shell, pretty standard.
I've used a Jodocast designed motor cover printed by Hobbymods, as I much prefer the tapers and smoother lines of it compared to the BSUK one on my RS rifle. Nothing special about installation really, no different to any other 180 motor.
I didn't have to change my LiPo, as it puts out enough current to run Hellcats without issue. It's a Turnigy Nanotech 1000mAh 45-90C 3S, so can put out 90A for a short time, or 45A continuously. Hellcats draw around 25A each at full 3S voltage (~12.6V), plus say another 15A worst case for the pusher, totalling a ~65A maximum draw for the circuit, which is well below my LiPo's maximum.
I'm currently running the Hellcats in my Bullpup with Worker flywheels and a Blade 180/-3240 motor in the pusher, awaiting a replacement -3250 motor. The first thing I noticed was spool up time. My RS rifle runs Blade 180/-3240 flywheel motors so I'd had experience with fast spool time, but Hellcats are even more impressive. They spool up to full speed pretty much instantly, to the point where the time they are revving up for is almost indistinguishable, more so even than Blade 180s/-3240s. Additionally, Hellcats seem very well balanced, they seem to produce a slightly quieter and more harmonious noise than my old Falcons did. Certainly quieter and more refined than Banshees or Honey Badgers, or even my RS rifle on 2S. Hellcats achieve glass ceiling velocities easily, as demonstrated by BlasterTech's chrono test:
I used my Bullpup for much of the MHvZ event earlier today, and they performed excellently. Rev up time was basically zero. I was able to perform reaction shots very effectively and had no trouble with full auto, even with the -3240 pusher which is faster than what I usually run. Muzzle velocity appeared to be unchanged (at least not reduced) compared to Falcons, and was still very effective. Overall it was entirely positive, and I experienced no problems whatsoever.
My experience with Hellcats has been extremely good - instant spool up, good balance and excellent performance, there's a lot to like about them, with the only downside being the typical 180 downside of having to cut the blaster's shell. I wholeheartedly recommend them as flywheel motors, and I daresay that outside of niche 2S applications, Hellcats are completely superior to Blade 180s/-3240s.
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MHvZ Game Report 11/6/16 - Squad Survival, MTB Hellcats
Despite some rain early in the day, today's MHvZ event was quite good. We tried out some changes to standard Survival, and I got a lot of use with my Bullpup RS, with newly installed MTB Hellcats.
Gamemodes:
Old:
Secret VIP - There are 3 special players in this game: the VIP, the General and the Traitor. The VIP is a human who the other humans are trying to protect and is restricted to a given area (we used the usual tambark area), while the Traitor is a zombie masquerading as a human. When stunned, zombies must move outside of the VIP's area before counting down their stun. The only person who knows the VIP's identity is the General, while all original zombies know the Traitor's identity. Everyone knows the identity of the General, making them the only guaranteed trustworthy human. The Traitor acts as a human, but can at any point do a single Traitor zombie tag, revealing that they are the Traitor, and thus turn into a regular zombie. Additionally, if a human hits another human, the hit human is stunned for 15 seconds. If the humans protect the VIP for a given period of time (e.g. 10 minutes), the humans win. If the zombies successfully tag the VIP, the zombies win. Zombie upgrades are unlocked on a timer like Survival, with Infectors and Tanks available from the start, and 5 minutes for Husk. If a human is hit by a grenade, they are instantly turned into a zombie. This is the only way to actively eliminate the Traitor.
New:
Survival w/ Hidden OZs - Standard HvZ gametype, humans try to survive for a given amount of time (or until the last human falls). Zombies are given access to upgrades at various times, we used Infectors and Tanks available from the start and Husk at 5 minutes. There are some number of hidden OZs, who are effectively the same as Traitors in Secret VIP. If a human is hit by a dart, they are stunned for 15 seconds. If there are any OZs still hidden as humans when the Husk is made available, they are automatically turned into zombies.
Squad Survival - Humans are pitted against each other and are in 3 person squads. The last squad with human team members is declared the winner. HvH combat is taken from 6 Round Sweep - a dart hit forces a human to respawn at a nearby tree. During this time they are invulnerable against darts and cannot fire, but are still vulnerable to zombies. Humans have 3 respawns before becoming a zombie by elimination, but if tagged by a zombie get turned immediately.
Zombie rules:
Zombies tag humans with their hands onto any body part, blaster, tactical gear, etc, turning the human into a zombie. If a human hits a zombie with a dart, the zombie is stunned for 15 seconds. A human can also stun a zombie with melee, but only with a direct hit to the back.
There are 3 standard zombie upgrades/mutations/perks:
Infector - zombies get to use foam swords, pool noodles, etc. Tags with said foam melee weapons on humans count as regular tags. Said melee weapons can also be used to block darts.
Tank - zombies get to use shields, which block darts. The shields cannot be used to tag humans, presumably as a precaution against shieldbashing which could cause significant injury.
Husk - a zombie gets to use a ranged attack, in this case a Drain Blaster firing rockets. A ranged Husk attack counts as a regular zombie tag. Husk ammo can be picked up by any zombie, but can only be used by the Husk naturally. The Husk may move from the place they were stunned to retrieve their ammo, but do not count down their stun timer until they return to their original stun place.
Zombie upgrades cannot be stacked, so a zombie can only have one upgrade at any time.
If in play, grenades can stun a zombie with a hit to any equipment, including swords and shields, and can be reused at will.
Blasters:
Since there were a lot of different blasters there, I've generalised them and only listed down the ones that I saw as significant or noteworthy, or remember for that matter. Being that I can't be everywhere at once, it's entirely possible I completely missed some blasters.
It should be noted that MHvZ recently introduced a 120FPS muzzle velocity cap, preventing the use of blasters such as brassed Sentinels and high power Longshots.
Recurring/Regulars:
Rebelle Sweet Revenge (light mods, 7 dart cylinders)- with my new 7 dart cylinders, I was able to engage zombies with a lot more confidence, however in all the times I actually had to draw them, was tagged before I used more than 5 darts from each.
Elite Rapidstrike (various motors, LiPos) - high ROF blasters that are devastating at close range and against groups, though serious trigger discipline and practice is necessary to use efficiently.
Due to a previous pusher motor problem, my Bullpup RS currently has a -3240 pusher motor, rather than the -3250 pusher motor I prefer. The -3240 is significantly faster, to the point where I can't reliably fire 2-dart bursts with it, and the pusher stops outwards inthe magwell all too often.With this pusher, I fire off more darts than I would like, and so go through a lot more ammo than I normally would. I have another -3250 on the way for replacement. The MTB Hellcats on the other hand, were glorious. Instant spool up and very nice harmonious noise, with excellent performance. I performed a number of reaction snap shots, and the motors were almost always at full speed by the time I actually got a shot off. Highly recommended.
Elite Retaliator(various pump grips, upgrade springs) - solid pump action springers that are probably the best all round springers that are legal at MHvZ. Though somewhat expensive to construct considering the cost of a good pump grip, they are very robust and more powerful than the other Elite clip (mag) system springers.
Elite Rampage and Alpha Trooper (various springs) - effective basic pump actions. Not quite as powerful as Retaliators, but require even less work and are pump action out-of-box. Good entry level and all round blasters.
N-Strike Raider (unknown mods) - why anyone still uses them baffles me, considering there are Rampages *and* Elite Alphas in the same loaner bag. They're weak and love jamming, there really is no reason for them to be chosen over any other blaster really.
ZS Slingfire (upgrade spring) - same Slingfire used by the same person, it's decent but certainly overall inferior to a pump action or flywheeler for overall utility.
Elite Stryfe (various motors, LiPos) - good ROF, decent range blasters that are quite easy to use and very effective. Lower ROF than Rapidstrikes, but higher ROF than just about any springer. Highly customisable so every one besides the loaner blasters is unique and special.
New/Infrequent:
Lanard Quadshot (couplered, 3 dart absolvers and rocket pegs) - gave this thing a try today just for fun. It was OK firing rockets, I only fired when zombies were at close range so range and accuracy weren't a significant issue. There's really no practical reason to use it to fire rockets, they're far less common than darts making scavenging a pain. As the picture shows, part way through the event, two of the rocket pegs gotbroken, I believe due to an unluckily timed Infector melee backswing, just after stunning said Infector. Using 3 dart absolvers, it somewhat more usable, however I believe 3 darts is not enough for an effective spread. 6 darts definitely is, and has been proven to be effective in previous events with other high power blasters, but with my lower power Quadshot, does not have practical range. I will likely experiment to find a good balance of effective spread and range.
ZS Longshot (pump grip, upgrade spring) - not as powerful as the other Longshots I've seen in other events, this one is significantly weaker but still packs a good punch. It was decent for mid range combat and against a few zombies, but was rather poor against multiple zombies in close range due to its relatively slow ROF.
Elite Hyperfire (stock) - was nice seeing one of these in person. Unfortunately, it was quite a disappointment. It had quite poor range, a ROF that wasn't too special and absolutely hated anything besides perfect darts, and so jammed up rather frequently. It was also smaller than I expected. The lack of cycle control is also a significant issue for consistent single and burst fire which a well done Rapidstrike can do no problem. Definitely would not recommend using a stock Hyperfire, at least not a grey trigger one, and from my experience so far it would seem that a well done Rapidstrike will be all round superior to a Hyperfire.
N-Strike Vulcan (stock) - players used it to look cool more than anything else. With massive bulk that's awkward to handle, low range and ROF and general lack of HvZ friendliness, it's a very impractical (though still very cool) choice.
ZS Crossfire (CO2 system) - this is a CO2 powered blaster hence all the extra parts, designed to be a semi auto sidearm. When it worked, it was pretty cool and quite effective, with 4 quick shots with decent power, however was very inconsistent about firing only one barrel at a time.
Elite Demolisher (stock) - stock flywheelers are generally nothing special with long rev up and significant flywheel deceleration, and offer no real advantages over stock springers, and this held true with this Demo. The rocket launcher was set up to also fire single darts, which was surprisingly effective, but overall not a particularly good blaster.
Same play area as always, however for the sake of convenience and speed of games, the southern area past the main tree line was made out of bounds. This didn't make that big a difference on the games, however did make dart sweeping and chasing down humans that little bit easier. Temperature was relatively low, peaking at or below 15 degrees C, and there were a few light showers early in the event which temporarily prevented the use of flywheelers and other electric blasters. Player count started around 15, increasing to around 20 by half way through the event.
In contrast with the usual Survival games we play, in this event we played with hidden OZs for the sake of shorter games. On top of a few starting zombies, there were a couple of hidden OZs picked by the starter zombies, and I must say that some of the hidden OZ choices were very well done. Quite often the hidden OZs were some of the experienced and well equipped players, those who have serious blasters and serious tactical gear. This choice of hidden OZ crippled that particular group of humans, and by extension significantly reduced the humans' firepower. I was quite often the target of the hidden OZs, which both annoyed and amused me. Annoying because hidden OZs are almost impossible to defend against if you want to survive but still be in the action, and amusing because being targeted by hidden OZs suggests that they see me as a threat, or just don't want me to be one of the last survivors.
The addition of hidden OZs didn't appear to significantly increase paranoia among humans or change human tactics or attitudes significantly, if at all. Unlike Secret VIP where there is a human win condition and a particular player to protect, in Survival all humans are equal and will fall, eventually. Secret VIP is an objective game specifically designed for mistrust and paranoia, while Survival is an open doomed final stand game, which I believe contributes significantly Survival w/ Hidden OZs being not too different to ordinary Survival.
I was a hidden OZ in one of the earlier rounds, before the "reveal hidden OZs after 5 minutes" rule was implemented. As I've mentioned before in previous game reports, I make for a very bad traitor in Secret VIP and by extension am also terrible at being a hidden OZ. My natural instinct in HvZ is to survive as long as possible, and that combined with my need to make what I believe is a good tag result in me usually not tagging anyone for a long time. In fact in that roundI was the hidden OZ, I was one of the last ~6ish humans remaining, and one of the zombies mentioned that they didn't want to see me as the last survivor again. Immediately following that, one of the humans turned and shot me, stunning me for 15 seconds (as per HvH rules when hidden OZs are in play), causing me to get tagged by zombies. My hidden OZ/Traitor instincts are just very, very poor and I'm very bad at recognising good situations to betray the humans.
Besides the annoyance of being turned by hidden OZs, Survival was pretty much the same as usual, with the exception of being shorter, as intended.The greater number of starting zombies (starters + hidden), immediate availability of the Tank shield plus the ability for the hidden OZs to break up an otherwise powerful human formation made zombie progress much faster.
Secret VIP worked decently, chaotic as usual. We played several rounds and saw the humans have a lot more success than usual. I believe there were a couple of factors that contributed to the humans' improved performance.
In previous game reports, I've commented frequently about the power of the Traitor. Against a decent group of humans, the Traitor is pretty much the only way that the zombies can get a serious shot at breaking the group or getting the VIP. In several of the rounds we played today, it seemed that the Traitor was unable to perform an effective betrayal. The times that I noticed the Traitor, they had already revealed themselves yet been stunned by other humans, after which they were promptly grenaded. Part of this was possibly due to the armament of the chosen Traitors. In previous events, a Traitor was often most successful with a rapid fire weapon, e.g. a Stryfe or Rapidstrike, as it allowed them to suddenly spray a whole load of darts at the nearby humans. In this event, I saw Traitors using slower springer blasters, such as a pump grip Longshot, preventing them from stunning a significant number of humans before being noticed and stunned themselves. With the Traitor revealed, the humans, especially the VIP, can feel far more at ease and can focus entirely on fending off thezombies. Though Tank rushes can still pose a threat if not spotted and dealt with quickly, a decent human team can easily survive the full time limit with the Traitor out of play.
Another contributor I believe was the time limit. In ordinary Secret VIP, the survival timer is 15 minutes, which provides a significant challenge as there is plenty of time for the horde to slowly whittle down and tire the humans. This in turn allows for many opportunities for the Traitor to tear through the human group at the right time, usually resulting in a zombie victory shortly after. In previous events, the Traitor would often reveal themselves only within the last ~5 minutes, against an already diminished human group. With only 10 minutes on the clock however, the zombies have less time to try and make an opening for the Traitor, and the Traitor in turn has much less time to make a move to make an opening for the rest of the zombies. This seemed to put a lot more pressure on the Traitor, forcing them to reveal themselves in less ideal situations against more humans, leading to their demise rather than a human slaughter. Something of note as well here is that the human groups seemed to defend quite well this event. The ordinary zombies spent very little time in the tambark area, and spent almost all of the time stunned, or prowling around the edge of the tambark without finding any significant gap in the human defence. The Tank naturally had better though still limited success, with some good tank rushes catching the nearby humans off guard, allowing the Tank to get a tag before being hosed down by the other humans. On the whole however, human casualties were relatively lower this event in Secret VIP than usual.
One final contributor I believe is the shield we used for the Tank. Typically there are a couple of shields on offer, all of which are very large, easily enough to obscure all but a person's feet, with ample width for protecting ordinary zombies to form a nice zombie train. In this event however, we only had container lids available, which are substantially smaller than the usual shields. They can cover the entire torso and upper legs, but leave the head, lower legs and feet exposed, and are not as wide. As such there were a lot more instances of humans stunning Tanks by going for the legs, and it was much easier to flank and stun Tanks. Besides the Traitor, Tanks are the only chance of breaking through the mass of humans, and a Tank's ability to protect themselves in a charge is crucial to a successful charge. With significantly reduced protection, it is much harder for a Tank to reach their intended (or unintended) target before getting stunned and thus forced to retreat to unstun. With reduced offensive capabilities and less time, the zombies are significantly disadvantaged compared to previous events, which I believe led to drastically improved human performance.
Squad Survival was thelast game of the day, and it was quite interesting and hectic. In Survival, particularly with the ordinary zombie stun (25 seconds) and without hidden OZs, a good group of humans can survive for very long through coordination, constant movement and raw firepower. Squad Survival significantly reduces human coordination and firepower, and also adds in extra threats in the form of other humans. In regular HvZ, humans have a massive advantage over zombies in the form of a massive range advantage, and since the zombies are no threat at range (besides the Husk), the humans do not need to be especially vigilant when not near enemies. In Squad Survival however, there is the threat of ranged combat from other humans coupled with the insistent attacks from zombies, which results in a far more chaotic and combat intensive gamemode.
In the round we played, my squad lost a squadmate early on through a well timed attack by another squad, while in combat with the few starting zombies. This put my squad at a significant disadvantage being 1 player down, and made us a prime target for the zombies given we would be easier to attack than any of the other squads. The two of us kept moving, constantly chased but not seriously threatened by the starting zombies, trying to draw them into conflict with other human groups to give us a reprieve. It became quickly apparent that there were two distinct types of human squads. The first, which was how my squad behaved, was generally friendly and happy to help other humans fend off zombies. Effectively these squads treated the game as an ordinary Survival, rather than a Squad Survival. Though especially helpful in midgame, working with other human squads goes directly against the game type, which is. The second type of squad is the hostile type, those who attack other human squads when in range and aren't afraid to fire on humans under threat from zombies. These groups are the most vulnerable in mid game, when friendlier squads are working together and the zombies are looking for easy victims, since a single squad is an easier target than a larger squad. In late game however, hostile groups are more inclined to stun human groups, and so are more likely to be the last squad standing, shortly before their demise at the hands of the full horde.
In Squad Survival, actively engaging in combat with other human squads throughout the game is very dangerous. Although you will cause a lot of humans to have to go and respawn, you yourself will also have to respawn at times, leaving yourself vulnerable to any nearby zombies. Too much aggressive play and you risk getting eliminated into a zombie, which defeats the purpose of being aggressive. Conversely, being too defensive and too friendly to other squads leaves you highly vulnerable to betrayal and thus zombification during your respawn run. The added element of having to deal withopposing humans as well as the ever growing zombie horde adds an extra intensity to Squad Survival, and by virtue of greatly reducing some of the humans' main weapons against the zombies, also seems to be shorter than regular Survival.
I rather enjoyed Squad Survival, though I would personally prefer squads of maybe 4, as 3 to me feels a little small. That in itself does contribute to the chaos and intensity of Squad Survival though, so perhaps 3 is the right number. Regardless I would be happy for Squad Survival to become a staple gamemode for MHvZ. Survival w/ Hidden OZs fulfilled its purpose of being a shortened Survival. Although the hidden OZ element can invoke some salty feelings, everyone has been good about it and has taken it as part of the game.
A link to the same game report on BlasterHub: link
Gamemodes:
Old:
Secret VIP - There are 3 special players in this game: the VIP, the General and the Traitor. The VIP is a human who the other humans are trying to protect and is restricted to a given area (we used the usual tambark area), while the Traitor is a zombie masquerading as a human. When stunned, zombies must move outside of the VIP's area before counting down their stun. The only person who knows the VIP's identity is the General, while all original zombies know the Traitor's identity. Everyone knows the identity of the General, making them the only guaranteed trustworthy human. The Traitor acts as a human, but can at any point do a single Traitor zombie tag, revealing that they are the Traitor, and thus turn into a regular zombie. Additionally, if a human hits another human, the hit human is stunned for 15 seconds. If the humans protect the VIP for a given period of time (e.g. 10 minutes), the humans win. If the zombies successfully tag the VIP, the zombies win. Zombie upgrades are unlocked on a timer like Survival, with Infectors and Tanks available from the start, and 5 minutes for Husk. If a human is hit by a grenade, they are instantly turned into a zombie. This is the only way to actively eliminate the Traitor.
New:
Survival w/ Hidden OZs - Standard HvZ gametype, humans try to survive for a given amount of time (or until the last human falls). Zombies are given access to upgrades at various times, we used Infectors and Tanks available from the start and Husk at 5 minutes. There are some number of hidden OZs, who are effectively the same as Traitors in Secret VIP. If a human is hit by a dart, they are stunned for 15 seconds. If there are any OZs still hidden as humans when the Husk is made available, they are automatically turned into zombies.
Squad Survival - Humans are pitted against each other and are in 3 person squads. The last squad with human team members is declared the winner. HvH combat is taken from 6 Round Sweep - a dart hit forces a human to respawn at a nearby tree. During this time they are invulnerable against darts and cannot fire, but are still vulnerable to zombies. Humans have 3 respawns before becoming a zombie by elimination, but if tagged by a zombie get turned immediately.
Zombie rules:
Zombies tag humans with their hands onto any body part, blaster, tactical gear, etc, turning the human into a zombie. If a human hits a zombie with a dart, the zombie is stunned for 15 seconds. A human can also stun a zombie with melee, but only with a direct hit to the back.
There are 3 standard zombie upgrades/mutations/perks:
Infector - zombies get to use foam swords, pool noodles, etc. Tags with said foam melee weapons on humans count as regular tags. Said melee weapons can also be used to block darts.
Tank - zombies get to use shields, which block darts. The shields cannot be used to tag humans, presumably as a precaution against shieldbashing which could cause significant injury.
Husk - a zombie gets to use a ranged attack, in this case a Drain Blaster firing rockets. A ranged Husk attack counts as a regular zombie tag. Husk ammo can be picked up by any zombie, but can only be used by the Husk naturally. The Husk may move from the place they were stunned to retrieve their ammo, but do not count down their stun timer until they return to their original stun place.
Zombie upgrades cannot be stacked, so a zombie can only have one upgrade at any time.
If in play, grenades can stun a zombie with a hit to any equipment, including swords and shields, and can be reused at will.
Blasters:
Since there were a lot of different blasters there, I've generalised them and only listed down the ones that I saw as significant or noteworthy, or remember for that matter. Being that I can't be everywhere at once, it's entirely possible I completely missed some blasters.
It should be noted that MHvZ recently introduced a 120FPS muzzle velocity cap, preventing the use of blasters such as brassed Sentinels and high power Longshots.
Recurring/Regulars:
Rebelle Sweet Revenge (light mods, 7 dart cylinders)- with my new 7 dart cylinders, I was able to engage zombies with a lot more confidence, however in all the times I actually had to draw them, was tagged before I used more than 5 darts from each.
Elite Rapidstrike (various motors, LiPos) - high ROF blasters that are devastating at close range and against groups, though serious trigger discipline and practice is necessary to use efficiently.
Due to a previous pusher motor problem, my Bullpup RS currently has a -3240 pusher motor, rather than the -3250 pusher motor I prefer. The -3240 is significantly faster, to the point where I can't reliably fire 2-dart bursts with it, and the pusher stops outwards inthe magwell all too often.With this pusher, I fire off more darts than I would like, and so go through a lot more ammo than I normally would. I have another -3250 on the way for replacement. The MTB Hellcats on the other hand, were glorious. Instant spool up and very nice harmonious noise, with excellent performance. I performed a number of reaction snap shots, and the motors were almost always at full speed by the time I actually got a shot off. Highly recommended.
Elite Retaliator(various pump grips, upgrade springs) - solid pump action springers that are probably the best all round springers that are legal at MHvZ. Though somewhat expensive to construct considering the cost of a good pump grip, they are very robust and more powerful than the other Elite clip (mag) system springers.
Elite Rampage and Alpha Trooper (various springs) - effective basic pump actions. Not quite as powerful as Retaliators, but require even less work and are pump action out-of-box. Good entry level and all round blasters.
N-Strike Raider (unknown mods) - why anyone still uses them baffles me, considering there are Rampages *and* Elite Alphas in the same loaner bag. They're weak and love jamming, there really is no reason for them to be chosen over any other blaster really.
ZS Slingfire (upgrade spring) - same Slingfire used by the same person, it's decent but certainly overall inferior to a pump action or flywheeler for overall utility.
Elite Stryfe (various motors, LiPos) - good ROF, decent range blasters that are quite easy to use and very effective. Lower ROF than Rapidstrikes, but higher ROF than just about any springer. Highly customisable so every one besides the loaner blasters is unique and special.
New/Infrequent:
Lanard Quadshot (couplered, 3 dart absolvers and rocket pegs) - gave this thing a try today just for fun. It was OK firing rockets, I only fired when zombies were at close range so range and accuracy weren't a significant issue. There's really no practical reason to use it to fire rockets, they're far less common than darts making scavenging a pain. As the picture shows, part way through the event, two of the rocket pegs gotbroken, I believe due to an unluckily timed Infector melee backswing, just after stunning said Infector. Using 3 dart absolvers, it somewhat more usable, however I believe 3 darts is not enough for an effective spread. 6 darts definitely is, and has been proven to be effective in previous events with other high power blasters, but with my lower power Quadshot, does not have practical range. I will likely experiment to find a good balance of effective spread and range.
ZS Longshot (pump grip, upgrade spring) - not as powerful as the other Longshots I've seen in other events, this one is significantly weaker but still packs a good punch. It was decent for mid range combat and against a few zombies, but was rather poor against multiple zombies in close range due to its relatively slow ROF.
Elite Hyperfire (stock) - was nice seeing one of these in person. Unfortunately, it was quite a disappointment. It had quite poor range, a ROF that wasn't too special and absolutely hated anything besides perfect darts, and so jammed up rather frequently. It was also smaller than I expected. The lack of cycle control is also a significant issue for consistent single and burst fire which a well done Rapidstrike can do no problem. Definitely would not recommend using a stock Hyperfire, at least not a grey trigger one, and from my experience so far it would seem that a well done Rapidstrike will be all round superior to a Hyperfire.
N-Strike Vulcan (stock) - players used it to look cool more than anything else. With massive bulk that's awkward to handle, low range and ROF and general lack of HvZ friendliness, it's a very impractical (though still very cool) choice.
ZS Crossfire (CO2 system) - this is a CO2 powered blaster hence all the extra parts, designed to be a semi auto sidearm. When it worked, it was pretty cool and quite effective, with 4 quick shots with decent power, however was very inconsistent about firing only one barrel at a time.
Elite Demolisher (stock) - stock flywheelers are generally nothing special with long rev up and significant flywheel deceleration, and offer no real advantages over stock springers, and this held true with this Demo. The rocket launcher was set up to also fire single darts, which was surprisingly effective, but overall not a particularly good blaster.
Same play area as always, however for the sake of convenience and speed of games, the southern area past the main tree line was made out of bounds. This didn't make that big a difference on the games, however did make dart sweeping and chasing down humans that little bit easier. Temperature was relatively low, peaking at or below 15 degrees C, and there were a few light showers early in the event which temporarily prevented the use of flywheelers and other electric blasters. Player count started around 15, increasing to around 20 by half way through the event.
In contrast with the usual Survival games we play, in this event we played with hidden OZs for the sake of shorter games. On top of a few starting zombies, there were a couple of hidden OZs picked by the starter zombies, and I must say that some of the hidden OZ choices were very well done. Quite often the hidden OZs were some of the experienced and well equipped players, those who have serious blasters and serious tactical gear. This choice of hidden OZ crippled that particular group of humans, and by extension significantly reduced the humans' firepower. I was quite often the target of the hidden OZs, which both annoyed and amused me. Annoying because hidden OZs are almost impossible to defend against if you want to survive but still be in the action, and amusing because being targeted by hidden OZs suggests that they see me as a threat, or just don't want me to be one of the last survivors.
The addition of hidden OZs didn't appear to significantly increase paranoia among humans or change human tactics or attitudes significantly, if at all. Unlike Secret VIP where there is a human win condition and a particular player to protect, in Survival all humans are equal and will fall, eventually. Secret VIP is an objective game specifically designed for mistrust and paranoia, while Survival is an open doomed final stand game, which I believe contributes significantly Survival w/ Hidden OZs being not too different to ordinary Survival.
I was a hidden OZ in one of the earlier rounds, before the "reveal hidden OZs after 5 minutes" rule was implemented. As I've mentioned before in previous game reports, I make for a very bad traitor in Secret VIP and by extension am also terrible at being a hidden OZ. My natural instinct in HvZ is to survive as long as possible, and that combined with my need to make what I believe is a good tag result in me usually not tagging anyone for a long time. In fact in that roundI was the hidden OZ, I was one of the last ~6ish humans remaining, and one of the zombies mentioned that they didn't want to see me as the last survivor again. Immediately following that, one of the humans turned and shot me, stunning me for 15 seconds (as per HvH rules when hidden OZs are in play), causing me to get tagged by zombies. My hidden OZ/Traitor instincts are just very, very poor and I'm very bad at recognising good situations to betray the humans.
Besides the annoyance of being turned by hidden OZs, Survival was pretty much the same as usual, with the exception of being shorter, as intended.The greater number of starting zombies (starters + hidden), immediate availability of the Tank shield plus the ability for the hidden OZs to break up an otherwise powerful human formation made zombie progress much faster.
Secret VIP worked decently, chaotic as usual. We played several rounds and saw the humans have a lot more success than usual. I believe there were a couple of factors that contributed to the humans' improved performance.
In previous game reports, I've commented frequently about the power of the Traitor. Against a decent group of humans, the Traitor is pretty much the only way that the zombies can get a serious shot at breaking the group or getting the VIP. In several of the rounds we played today, it seemed that the Traitor was unable to perform an effective betrayal. The times that I noticed the Traitor, they had already revealed themselves yet been stunned by other humans, after which they were promptly grenaded. Part of this was possibly due to the armament of the chosen Traitors. In previous events, a Traitor was often most successful with a rapid fire weapon, e.g. a Stryfe or Rapidstrike, as it allowed them to suddenly spray a whole load of darts at the nearby humans. In this event, I saw Traitors using slower springer blasters, such as a pump grip Longshot, preventing them from stunning a significant number of humans before being noticed and stunned themselves. With the Traitor revealed, the humans, especially the VIP, can feel far more at ease and can focus entirely on fending off thezombies. Though Tank rushes can still pose a threat if not spotted and dealt with quickly, a decent human team can easily survive the full time limit with the Traitor out of play.
Another contributor I believe was the time limit. In ordinary Secret VIP, the survival timer is 15 minutes, which provides a significant challenge as there is plenty of time for the horde to slowly whittle down and tire the humans. This in turn allows for many opportunities for the Traitor to tear through the human group at the right time, usually resulting in a zombie victory shortly after. In previous events, the Traitor would often reveal themselves only within the last ~5 minutes, against an already diminished human group. With only 10 minutes on the clock however, the zombies have less time to try and make an opening for the Traitor, and the Traitor in turn has much less time to make a move to make an opening for the rest of the zombies. This seemed to put a lot more pressure on the Traitor, forcing them to reveal themselves in less ideal situations against more humans, leading to their demise rather than a human slaughter. Something of note as well here is that the human groups seemed to defend quite well this event. The ordinary zombies spent very little time in the tambark area, and spent almost all of the time stunned, or prowling around the edge of the tambark without finding any significant gap in the human defence. The Tank naturally had better though still limited success, with some good tank rushes catching the nearby humans off guard, allowing the Tank to get a tag before being hosed down by the other humans. On the whole however, human casualties were relatively lower this event in Secret VIP than usual.
One final contributor I believe is the shield we used for the Tank. Typically there are a couple of shields on offer, all of which are very large, easily enough to obscure all but a person's feet, with ample width for protecting ordinary zombies to form a nice zombie train. In this event however, we only had container lids available, which are substantially smaller than the usual shields. They can cover the entire torso and upper legs, but leave the head, lower legs and feet exposed, and are not as wide. As such there were a lot more instances of humans stunning Tanks by going for the legs, and it was much easier to flank and stun Tanks. Besides the Traitor, Tanks are the only chance of breaking through the mass of humans, and a Tank's ability to protect themselves in a charge is crucial to a successful charge. With significantly reduced protection, it is much harder for a Tank to reach their intended (or unintended) target before getting stunned and thus forced to retreat to unstun. With reduced offensive capabilities and less time, the zombies are significantly disadvantaged compared to previous events, which I believe led to drastically improved human performance.
Squad Survival was thelast game of the day, and it was quite interesting and hectic. In Survival, particularly with the ordinary zombie stun (25 seconds) and without hidden OZs, a good group of humans can survive for very long through coordination, constant movement and raw firepower. Squad Survival significantly reduces human coordination and firepower, and also adds in extra threats in the form of other humans. In regular HvZ, humans have a massive advantage over zombies in the form of a massive range advantage, and since the zombies are no threat at range (besides the Husk), the humans do not need to be especially vigilant when not near enemies. In Squad Survival however, there is the threat of ranged combat from other humans coupled with the insistent attacks from zombies, which results in a far more chaotic and combat intensive gamemode.
In the round we played, my squad lost a squadmate early on through a well timed attack by another squad, while in combat with the few starting zombies. This put my squad at a significant disadvantage being 1 player down, and made us a prime target for the zombies given we would be easier to attack than any of the other squads. The two of us kept moving, constantly chased but not seriously threatened by the starting zombies, trying to draw them into conflict with other human groups to give us a reprieve. It became quickly apparent that there were two distinct types of human squads. The first, which was how my squad behaved, was generally friendly and happy to help other humans fend off zombies. Effectively these squads treated the game as an ordinary Survival, rather than a Squad Survival. Though especially helpful in midgame, working with other human squads goes directly against the game type, which is. The second type of squad is the hostile type, those who attack other human squads when in range and aren't afraid to fire on humans under threat from zombies. These groups are the most vulnerable in mid game, when friendlier squads are working together and the zombies are looking for easy victims, since a single squad is an easier target than a larger squad. In late game however, hostile groups are more inclined to stun human groups, and so are more likely to be the last squad standing, shortly before their demise at the hands of the full horde.
In Squad Survival, actively engaging in combat with other human squads throughout the game is very dangerous. Although you will cause a lot of humans to have to go and respawn, you yourself will also have to respawn at times, leaving yourself vulnerable to any nearby zombies. Too much aggressive play and you risk getting eliminated into a zombie, which defeats the purpose of being aggressive. Conversely, being too defensive and too friendly to other squads leaves you highly vulnerable to betrayal and thus zombification during your respawn run. The added element of having to deal withopposing humans as well as the ever growing zombie horde adds an extra intensity to Squad Survival, and by virtue of greatly reducing some of the humans' main weapons against the zombies, also seems to be shorter than regular Survival.
I rather enjoyed Squad Survival, though I would personally prefer squads of maybe 4, as 3 to me feels a little small. That in itself does contribute to the chaos and intensity of Squad Survival though, so perhaps 3 is the right number. Regardless I would be happy for Squad Survival to become a staple gamemode for MHvZ. Survival w/ Hidden OZs fulfilled its purpose of being a shortened Survival. Although the hidden OZ element can invoke some salty feelings, everyone has been good about it and has taken it as part of the game.
A link to the same game report on BlasterHub: link
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MLF Game Report 19/6/16 - High Player Count, Rapidstrike Spamfest
Today's MLF event was quite a good one. We had a much higher than usual player count and so had some quite intense games. There were also more Rapidstrikes than usual this event.
Gamemodes:
Old:
Kill Confirmed - very similar to Freeze Tag/Tag Teams. When a player is hit, they are downed and must wait for a teammate to revive them, which is achieved with a simple hand tag. In Kill Confirmed, all players are medics. An opposing player may tag a downed player with their hand to "confirm the kill" and eliminate them from the game. Naturally if an entire team is downed, then that team loses even if none of them are "confirmed". The last team with surviving, non-downed players wins.
VIP - one player from each team is designated as the VIP of that team (the teams do not need to tell other teams who their designated VIP is). If the VIP is downed, their team can no longer respawn (but can still be revived by their medic). The VIP must call out when they are downed, and cannot be revived by the medic. One player is designated as the medic of the team (likewise whose identity does not need to be publicly shared). The last team with surviving players wins.
Capture the Flag (CTF) - classic gamemode, steal the enemy's flag and return it to your flag at your base to win. Drop the flag if downed while holding it. If the flag is picked up, the player cannot put it down unless they are downed. The flags are not allowed within or behind ~5 metres in front of spawn.
New:
None
New:
None
Blasters:
Since there were a lot of different blasters there, I've generalised them and only listed down the ones that I saw as significant or noteworthy, or remember for that matter. Being that I can't be everywhere at once, it's entirely possible I completely missed some blasters.
Since there were a lot of different blasters there, I've generalised them and only listed down the ones that I saw as significant or noteworthy, or remember for that matter. Being that I can't be everywhere at once, it's entirely possible I completely missed some blasters.
Recurring/Regular:
Rebelle Sweet Revenges (light mods) - my standard dual sidearms. Saw a bit of use in this event after I had run completely out of mags. Naturally far from competitive with any proper primary blaster, but they're not meant to compete with primaries anyway.
Elite Rapidstrike (various motors, LiPos) - there were more than usual this event, a good 6 or so. They served the same role as always, a high ROF blaster that excels in suppression and accuracy by volume. Requires good trigger discipline and a significant number of mags to fully take advantage of. The sheer number of Rapidstrikes resulted in a *lot* of mag dumpsand the air was rife with the roar of flywheels and the whine of pusher boxes.
Elite Stryfe (various motors, LiPos) - standard staple of Melbourne games, good range, decent ROF and very easy to use. Not as powerful as a high level springer (say a high power Longshot), and not as high ROF as a Rapidstrike, but an excellent middle ground that makes for an excellent all round blaster.
Elite Retaliator (various pump grips, springs) - probably the most common springer that I see in Melbourne games, one of the faster firing springers with firepower that can contend with the piles of flywheelers. Substantially slower ROF than any flywheeler of course, but probably the best all round springer for these sorts of games.
Buzz Bee Sentinel (stock?) - it's incredible out-of-box power allows the Sentinel to be one of the only properly competitive stock blasters. Naturally it's still somewhat lacking in power compared to flywheelers, but a few simple mods can fix that. Far from the best blaster you can use, but probably the best out-of-box blaster currently available for these sorts of games.
New/Infrequent:
N-Strike Stampede (Xplorer kit) - quite a good blaster, it was getting muzzle velocities beyond what the top flywheelers were achieving, and thanks to its use of half length darts, was also quite effective at longer ranges. ROF was lower than any Rapidstrike or a well used Stryfe, but the raw power coupled with effective full auto made it quite a good blaster.
We used the second play area this event. Since the last time we used it however, a significant area had been cleared out of trees, this area being the light blue area. This presented a problem as it removed the cover for that side of the play area, unbalancing the play area. Previously, the play area worked well for two corridors of combat: one skirting around the edge of the open field, and one further in along the north edge, just next to the extremely thick bush just north. The removal of the trees from that light blue area removed a lot of middle cover for the team starting on the west, making it noticeably harder to push forward if pinned down in that area. The play area having only two main corridors of combat for such a high player count did result in a few issues particularly for some of the objective gamemodes. I think this play area is better suited to a lower player count, maybe 10-12 at most. The green highlighted area is the open field area, with the gap in the middle being a single very large bush. Weather was not a problem, decent cloud cover with temperature around 12-15 degrees C. There was a significantly larger turnout this event, with at least 14 players for most of the games, peaking at 16-18.
We played a number of rounds of Kill Confirmed, and they mostly progressed as expected. As usual it was rather chaotic and typically quite short, usually only ~3 minutes or less. The unusually high player count did elongate the games a fair bit compared to smaller Kill Confirmed rounds. Not only are there just more players to eliminate, but there are also more players to down before you can move forward to eliminate a group. In smaller KC games of 4-6 players per team in wider play areas, you usually only need to down 2 or 3 players per "group" before you have an opening to move in and eliminate them. With so many more players, you have to down up to 4 or 5 players before the area is clear.Even then, because of how narrow the play area is, you will likely be within range of the surviving enemy players. This makes it much harder to move forward and conclusively eliminate a group of enemies. Often I would see several players downed in a particular area, only to be revived some time after because the enemies were unable to move forward and eliminate them. The first team to eliminate a significant number of enemies usually was able to ride that numerical advantage to victory, since in this event in particular, that numerical advantage is typically very large.
The three KC rounds I remember best are the last three we played, each progressing very differently. The first KC round was quite a long one, with a stalemate for a couple of minutes. Both teams had been able to down a significant number of players, but not eliminate many. My team was able to down most of the players on our right side along the north, however had lost several players in the process. I was able to run up and eliminate the downed players, however the remainder of the enemy team had flanked around the left open area, eliminating the rest of my teammates. I was then left with a 3v1 situation, which 95% of the time I would have lost quite quickly. The enemy players split up, two chasing me along the north edge while one went along the open field. Through sheer luck, I managed to dodge 2 mags worth of darts from a Rapidstrike, and was able to turn around and somehow down both enemy players coming from the north. I quickly went to eliminate them, after which I was attacked by the one remaining enemy, who I was able to down with my last 12 mag. 95% of the time, the enemy team's flanking would have been a game winner, and it was only through sheer luck and reloading practice that I survived.
The second KC round was quite short and for the most part played out in quite a different way to the first. Instead of a long stalemate, my team was able to rush the enemy team from the start, catching some of them out in the open and pinning them down. I was able to down two enemies, and the rest of my team was able to attain a good offensive position. From that position, we were able to prevent enemy revivals, and were able to wipe out the entire enemy team without significant loss. The key in this round was that rush from the start. Obtaining a good offensive position early in KC is extremely valuable, due to the nature of the game. It's very momentum based, and any momentum you can get early on puts your team in good stead for the rest of the game.
I sat out of the last KC round as I was completely out of darts and couldn't be bothered reloading for just one more round, so spectated and took pictures. The blue team (starting east) rushed forward as with the second round and reached about the same place I did in the second round, however the yellow team (starting west) was able to reach a better defensible position. Several players were clustered together in particular areas of cover, and so the game progressed for quite a while as a stalemate. Though a lot of players were downed, neither team was able to push up to eliminate them, so inevitably those players were revived and the game continued. Eventually the game came down to people switching to their sidearms, and the blue team were eventually victorious. From the start, the blue team was the more mobile team, while yellow team became more entrenched and static, which gave the blue team a better shot at moving up to eliminate players. Nevertheless, such a long stalemate is relatively rare in MLF, and I think the narrow play area and large player counts contributed to the increased number of long stalemates.
We played a couple of CTF rounds, and they seemed to generally last longer than usual. Flag placement was not anything special, I think the main contributor was player count in this play area. We had a good 16 players or so, which makes this play area quite cramped as it is not very wide. Quite often if you were on the front line, you would be within range of at least 4 enemies, and actively trading fire with probably at least 3 of them. Given the proliferation of rapid fire blasters, it was incredibly difficult to break through a well positioned enemy team. Even without notably good positioning, the sheer number of players in a relatively small area made it quite difficult to push forward. As a result, any flag steals either occured early on before the besieged team could properly establish position, or as a result of poor team communication.
In one of the rounds I remember well, my team started in the west corner. I spent most of my time engaged in the north corner, downing several players but not being able to make much progress. Early on, one of our players had rushed forward and managed to steal the flag, but was downed shortly after. This left the enemy flag further in enemy territory, closer to their spawn. After some time in the north, upon respawn I moved fend off a few enemies near our flag. We were incredibly lucky during this time, as an enemy who was about to steal our flag temporarily lost his footing, giving me time to reload and hose him down. If not for that slip, he would have had a good chance of stealing our flag. After this, I noticed that while the enemy team was heavily entrenched in the north, there was a gaproughlysouthwest of where their flag was sitting. Icoordinated my run with a teammate, who moved along the edge of the open field, attacking the enemies coming from spawn. This gave me an opening to run in and steal the flag, before the entrenched enemies realised what was happening. I was just able to outrun one pursuing enemy and successfully captured the flag.
One of the major contributors to my flag run was communication/coordination. I worked with a fellow teammate who drew fire and attention away from myself, and I owe much to him. Without that distraction and cover fire, I likely would not have been able to get out of enemy territory with the flag. Part of it also came down to an apparent lack or delay in enemy communication. I was able to sneak behind the main entrenched group of enemies unnoticed, and it wasn't until I already had the flag that I noticed any enemy pursuit. The enemy group had been effectively split in two, one on the front lines and the other stuck near spawn. The presence of a distinct gap in the enemy lines can likely also be put down to communication. I also owe a little to the teammate who made that early steal. Although the flag was moved further into enemy territory, it was also moved further away from the front enemy line. If the flag had remained in its post, I would have had to fight through the entire enemy front line to steal it.
In the other round I remember well, my team lost through poor coordination. After some inconclusive combat again in the north corner, I noticed a pair of enemies moving up on the flag, and we had no defenders on that side. Unlike the previous round, I was not able to successfully fend them off on my own. Though I tried to call for reinforcements, they didn't arrive in time and the enemy successfully stole the flag. An apparent lack of communication in my team led to our flag being left undefended, as we had several players available on the other side away from the flag. Communication and coordination are vital in CTF, and can be the difference between a decisive victory or a disappointing defeat. You're unlikely to be able to make a huge difference on your own, whether offensively or defensively. Coordinating with even just one teammate massively expands the options and tactics available, and has ledme to victory many times in CTF.
We played a pair of VIP rounds, which I think didn't go too well. As with the other gametypes, I believe the main issues stemmed from the high player count relative to the play area size. In both CTF and KC, we had a few issues with the sheer density of players greatly hindering any progress. In each of those gamemodes though, there were ways to break the stalemates. KC typically rewards the more controlled aggressive team, and so even with the sheer number of players we had, a well executed and coordinated offence was often enough to gain an advantage. In CTF, the flags are not allowed too close to spawns, and so are still stealable with skill, coordination and luck. In VIP, there is currently no such rule, and so it is perfectly reasonable for the VIP to hide near or even behind the spawn. As a result, the second VIP round lasted so long that it was just turned into a sudden death so we could end the game. My team was by far more aggressive, and our VIP was in the middle of the field, yet under no threat. If not for the VIP hiding near their spawn, I have no doubt that we would have won the round. Besides that issue (which I believe will be fixed with a minor rule change), VIP worked ok, but I think still suffered from high density of players. Even if the VIP wasn't camping near their spawn, the sheer density of players made it extremely difficult to push through for a shot at the VIP. The first VIP round we played, my team was able to win quite quickly as we were able to rush the enemy team. They weren't fully prepared for us and hadn't taken up proper positions yet, so were easily wiped out, leaving their VIP vulnerable for an easy win. If not for that, this VIP round could also have lasted for a long time.
Overall this MLF event was quite fun. Although the high player count in this relatively narrower area I believe caused a few issues with some of the games, it also provided an intense and hectic environment. With the loss of the northwest cover though, I think this play area is a little too unbalanced. It provides too much disparity between the areas of cover, which I think significantly affects the symmetric gametypes like CTF. This high player count in a larger area such as the third play area would be practically perfect I think.
We played a number of rounds of Kill Confirmed, and they mostly progressed as expected. As usual it was rather chaotic and typically quite short, usually only ~3 minutes or less. The unusually high player count did elongate the games a fair bit compared to smaller Kill Confirmed rounds. Not only are there just more players to eliminate, but there are also more players to down before you can move forward to eliminate a group. In smaller KC games of 4-6 players per team in wider play areas, you usually only need to down 2 or 3 players per "group" before you have an opening to move in and eliminate them. With so many more players, you have to down up to 4 or 5 players before the area is clear.Even then, because of how narrow the play area is, you will likely be within range of the surviving enemy players. This makes it much harder to move forward and conclusively eliminate a group of enemies. Often I would see several players downed in a particular area, only to be revived some time after because the enemies were unable to move forward and eliminate them. The first team to eliminate a significant number of enemies usually was able to ride that numerical advantage to victory, since in this event in particular, that numerical advantage is typically very large.
The three KC rounds I remember best are the last three we played, each progressing very differently. The first KC round was quite a long one, with a stalemate for a couple of minutes. Both teams had been able to down a significant number of players, but not eliminate many. My team was able to down most of the players on our right side along the north, however had lost several players in the process. I was able to run up and eliminate the downed players, however the remainder of the enemy team had flanked around the left open area, eliminating the rest of my teammates. I was then left with a 3v1 situation, which 95% of the time I would have lost quite quickly. The enemy players split up, two chasing me along the north edge while one went along the open field. Through sheer luck, I managed to dodge 2 mags worth of darts from a Rapidstrike, and was able to turn around and somehow down both enemy players coming from the north. I quickly went to eliminate them, after which I was attacked by the one remaining enemy, who I was able to down with my last 12 mag. 95% of the time, the enemy team's flanking would have been a game winner, and it was only through sheer luck and reloading practice that I survived.
The second KC round was quite short and for the most part played out in quite a different way to the first. Instead of a long stalemate, my team was able to rush the enemy team from the start, catching some of them out in the open and pinning them down. I was able to down two enemies, and the rest of my team was able to attain a good offensive position. From that position, we were able to prevent enemy revivals, and were able to wipe out the entire enemy team without significant loss. The key in this round was that rush from the start. Obtaining a good offensive position early in KC is extremely valuable, due to the nature of the game. It's very momentum based, and any momentum you can get early on puts your team in good stead for the rest of the game.
I sat out of the last KC round as I was completely out of darts and couldn't be bothered reloading for just one more round, so spectated and took pictures. The blue team (starting east) rushed forward as with the second round and reached about the same place I did in the second round, however the yellow team (starting west) was able to reach a better defensible position. Several players were clustered together in particular areas of cover, and so the game progressed for quite a while as a stalemate. Though a lot of players were downed, neither team was able to push up to eliminate them, so inevitably those players were revived and the game continued. Eventually the game came down to people switching to their sidearms, and the blue team were eventually victorious. From the start, the blue team was the more mobile team, while yellow team became more entrenched and static, which gave the blue team a better shot at moving up to eliminate players. Nevertheless, such a long stalemate is relatively rare in MLF, and I think the narrow play area and large player counts contributed to the increased number of long stalemates.
We played a couple of CTF rounds, and they seemed to generally last longer than usual. Flag placement was not anything special, I think the main contributor was player count in this play area. We had a good 16 players or so, which makes this play area quite cramped as it is not very wide. Quite often if you were on the front line, you would be within range of at least 4 enemies, and actively trading fire with probably at least 3 of them. Given the proliferation of rapid fire blasters, it was incredibly difficult to break through a well positioned enemy team. Even without notably good positioning, the sheer number of players in a relatively small area made it quite difficult to push forward. As a result, any flag steals either occured early on before the besieged team could properly establish position, or as a result of poor team communication.
In one of the rounds I remember well, my team started in the west corner. I spent most of my time engaged in the north corner, downing several players but not being able to make much progress. Early on, one of our players had rushed forward and managed to steal the flag, but was downed shortly after. This left the enemy flag further in enemy territory, closer to their spawn. After some time in the north, upon respawn I moved fend off a few enemies near our flag. We were incredibly lucky during this time, as an enemy who was about to steal our flag temporarily lost his footing, giving me time to reload and hose him down. If not for that slip, he would have had a good chance of stealing our flag. After this, I noticed that while the enemy team was heavily entrenched in the north, there was a gaproughlysouthwest of where their flag was sitting. Icoordinated my run with a teammate, who moved along the edge of the open field, attacking the enemies coming from spawn. This gave me an opening to run in and steal the flag, before the entrenched enemies realised what was happening. I was just able to outrun one pursuing enemy and successfully captured the flag.
One of the major contributors to my flag run was communication/coordination. I worked with a fellow teammate who drew fire and attention away from myself, and I owe much to him. Without that distraction and cover fire, I likely would not have been able to get out of enemy territory with the flag. Part of it also came down to an apparent lack or delay in enemy communication. I was able to sneak behind the main entrenched group of enemies unnoticed, and it wasn't until I already had the flag that I noticed any enemy pursuit. The enemy group had been effectively split in two, one on the front lines and the other stuck near spawn. The presence of a distinct gap in the enemy lines can likely also be put down to communication. I also owe a little to the teammate who made that early steal. Although the flag was moved further into enemy territory, it was also moved further away from the front enemy line. If the flag had remained in its post, I would have had to fight through the entire enemy front line to steal it.
In the other round I remember well, my team lost through poor coordination. After some inconclusive combat again in the north corner, I noticed a pair of enemies moving up on the flag, and we had no defenders on that side. Unlike the previous round, I was not able to successfully fend them off on my own. Though I tried to call for reinforcements, they didn't arrive in time and the enemy successfully stole the flag. An apparent lack of communication in my team led to our flag being left undefended, as we had several players available on the other side away from the flag. Communication and coordination are vital in CTF, and can be the difference between a decisive victory or a disappointing defeat. You're unlikely to be able to make a huge difference on your own, whether offensively or defensively. Coordinating with even just one teammate massively expands the options and tactics available, and has ledme to victory many times in CTF.
We played a pair of VIP rounds, which I think didn't go too well. As with the other gametypes, I believe the main issues stemmed from the high player count relative to the play area size. In both CTF and KC, we had a few issues with the sheer density of players greatly hindering any progress. In each of those gamemodes though, there were ways to break the stalemates. KC typically rewards the more controlled aggressive team, and so even with the sheer number of players we had, a well executed and coordinated offence was often enough to gain an advantage. In CTF, the flags are not allowed too close to spawns, and so are still stealable with skill, coordination and luck. In VIP, there is currently no such rule, and so it is perfectly reasonable for the VIP to hide near or even behind the spawn. As a result, the second VIP round lasted so long that it was just turned into a sudden death so we could end the game. My team was by far more aggressive, and our VIP was in the middle of the field, yet under no threat. If not for the VIP hiding near their spawn, I have no doubt that we would have won the round. Besides that issue (which I believe will be fixed with a minor rule change), VIP worked ok, but I think still suffered from high density of players. Even if the VIP wasn't camping near their spawn, the sheer density of players made it extremely difficult to push through for a shot at the VIP. The first VIP round we played, my team was able to win quite quickly as we were able to rush the enemy team. They weren't fully prepared for us and hadn't taken up proper positions yet, so were easily wiped out, leaving their VIP vulnerable for an easy win. If not for that, this VIP round could also have lasted for a long time.
Overall this MLF event was quite fun. Although the high player count in this relatively narrower area I believe caused a few issues with some of the games, it also provided an intense and hectic environment. With the loss of the northwest cover though, I think this play area is a little too unbalanced. It provides too much disparity between the areas of cover, which I think significantly affects the symmetric gametypes like CTF. This high player count in a larger area such as the third play area would be practically perfect I think.
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Mod: Flywheel Brass Guide (19/32" in an RS)
Something I've always hated about flywheels is the apparent lack of accuracy. Whether because I'm bad at setting up flywheel blasters or they just hate me, who knows. One of the steps I took towards trying to improve accuracy was switching to Worker flywheels, which as I noted in my review, work quite well. I decided to try a brass dart guide, as it was something I had the materials for on hand, and something that has had a lot of varying results.
I decided to use 19/32" brass as some of the tests I've come across involving 9/16" appear to affect muzzle velocity noticeably, and I wanted no muzzle velocity loss. I felt that 19/32" brass would be wide enough to not significantly impact muzzle velocity, but still narrow enough to improve dart flight paths.
I used a piece of brass 10.7cm long. I don't know how different a little longer or shorter would be, but I don't have the spare brass to find out. These measurements are based off the following "barrel" segment measurement, and the geometry of the flywheel cage.
The "barrel" section is just shorter than a dart, measured so that the dart tip would be exiting the "barrel" when the tail end is just leaving the flywheels. This measurement was based off what Hawki007 recommended on Reddit, and to me it makes sense. Any shorter and the dart tip is still free to flail about before the dart has finished accelerating, any longer and the dart will start dragging along the brass after leaving the flywheels.
The back halfpipe cutout I made to be 1.8cm. It could be a little longer, but I didn't want it interfering with mags at all.
The distance from the back of the pipe to the back edge of the flywheel cage is 2.1cm.
These are the horrendously awful cutouts I made for the flywheels. I was in a bit of a rush and had no idea how to make super clean, super nice circular cutouts, so I went for rectangle. The edges are all grinded down smooth and the flywheels fit in just fine, I just wish I knew how to make not-awful looking cuts for these.
Test fitting the brass guide. As awful as the edges look, the flywheels don't touch them at all so hopefully they don't cause me too much trouble. I haven't had them cause any trouble yet, but I may look at re-doing the brass guide more cleanly.
Brass guide in place, with the epoxy curing. If the brass guide isn't perfectly aligned with the faux barrel, you're going to have problems.
One last quick alteration to the flywheel cage, these middle ridges have to go from both sides.
I just used pliers, not pretty but it gets the job done.
One last alteration I had to do was remove the entire lower section of the brass form the magwell end. From what I've seen, most other peoples' brass guides maintain the lower lip, though I've mostly seen them on Stryfes, which have a much lower effective/combat ROF than Rapidstrikes. I found that especially at high ROF, darts loved to collide with the lower wall of the brass, jam. Removing that section of the brass allows the darts to slide up the ramp as usual instead of straight jamming if alignment isn't perfect. Again, while the cuts are rather messy, all sides have been grinded down to be smooth.
Finally everything done and installed. Note that this is installed in my Bullpup RS, hence the weird carry handle segment and the mess inside the magwell.
With a clip (mag) loaded in. The top dart should be cupped nicely by the brass halfpipe. This protrusion of brass also helps stop darts from popping out the top of clips (mags), something I have experienced before with worn out darts. This prevents top loading, but given the games I play and my playstyle, this is not an issue to me.
I've fired hundreds if not thousands of darts through the brass guide, both Kooshes and FVJs. I've fired lots of my own Kooshes indoors at home for testing, and a lot of FVJs through several Melbourne Nerf events. Once I'd cleaned up all the cuts and in particular removed that bottom lip, darts fed perfectly fine through the brass. Throughout all the events it's been used in so far, I've had maybe 1 or 2 jams.
Comparing my Bullpup RS side-by-side with my RS rifle, also with Worker wheels, I saw two contrasting results. Since my Bullpup RS had Falcons in it at the time, and the RS rifle Blade 180/-3240s, I felt that they were fairly well matched for comparative purposes. Using FVJs, there was no significant difference. FVJs with Worker wheels already have very good grouping at less than half a metre spread at ~8m, and it is largely to them that I attribute the greatly improved effectiveness of my RS's in combat. Using Kooshes however, there was quite a significant difference. My RS rifle would have a fair number of Kooshes go off at fairly wide angles (spreading up to nearly a metre at ~8m range), while my Bullpup RS would keep all of the Kooshes in relatively tight groups, probably around half a metre or less at the same range.
With stock flywheels in my Bullpup, I saw noticeable accuracy improvements over not having a brass guide. However it was probably only a little better than having just Worker flywheels, if not directly comparable. If it's a decision between a brass guide or Worker wheels, then definitely go for the Worker wheels first.
Through several chronograph tests at several different MLF events, I have seen no significant muzzle velocity difference between my Bullpup RS and any other overhauled RS with Worker wheels, without a brass guide. I believe that 19/32" is wide enough to not significantly slow down the dart after it has left the flywheels, compared to 9/16", which I have seen in several builds reduce muzzle velocity noticeably.
Is a brass guide worth doing? If done right and you want the absolute best performance possible then definitely. Accuracy is significantly improved, and the brass also helps stopping darts from popping out of the top of the mags. You may want to consider removing the lower lip, as especially at higher ROF it will cause issues with darts getting stuck, but with that removed, a well cut brass guide should cause no issues. Because of the raw amount of time and effort required to make and install a brass guide, I probably won't be doing another one, but I'm glad that I did one for my Bullpup.
I decided to use 19/32" brass as some of the tests I've come across involving 9/16" appear to affect muzzle velocity noticeably, and I wanted no muzzle velocity loss. I felt that 19/32" brass would be wide enough to not significantly impact muzzle velocity, but still narrow enough to improve dart flight paths.
I used a piece of brass 10.7cm long. I don't know how different a little longer or shorter would be, but I don't have the spare brass to find out. These measurements are based off the following "barrel" segment measurement, and the geometry of the flywheel cage.
The "barrel" section is just shorter than a dart, measured so that the dart tip would be exiting the "barrel" when the tail end is just leaving the flywheels. This measurement was based off what Hawki007 recommended on Reddit, and to me it makes sense. Any shorter and the dart tip is still free to flail about before the dart has finished accelerating, any longer and the dart will start dragging along the brass after leaving the flywheels.
The back halfpipe cutout I made to be 1.8cm. It could be a little longer, but I didn't want it interfering with mags at all.
The distance from the back of the pipe to the back edge of the flywheel cage is 2.1cm.
These are the horrendously awful cutouts I made for the flywheels. I was in a bit of a rush and had no idea how to make super clean, super nice circular cutouts, so I went for rectangle. The edges are all grinded down smooth and the flywheels fit in just fine, I just wish I knew how to make not-awful looking cuts for these.
Test fitting the brass guide. As awful as the edges look, the flywheels don't touch them at all so hopefully they don't cause me too much trouble. I haven't had them cause any trouble yet, but I may look at re-doing the brass guide more cleanly.
Brass guide in place, with the epoxy curing. If the brass guide isn't perfectly aligned with the faux barrel, you're going to have problems.
One last quick alteration to the flywheel cage, these middle ridges have to go from both sides.
I just used pliers, not pretty but it gets the job done.
One last alteration I had to do was remove the entire lower section of the brass form the magwell end. From what I've seen, most other peoples' brass guides maintain the lower lip, though I've mostly seen them on Stryfes, which have a much lower effective/combat ROF than Rapidstrikes. I found that especially at high ROF, darts loved to collide with the lower wall of the brass, jam. Removing that section of the brass allows the darts to slide up the ramp as usual instead of straight jamming if alignment isn't perfect. Again, while the cuts are rather messy, all sides have been grinded down to be smooth.
Finally everything done and installed. Note that this is installed in my Bullpup RS, hence the weird carry handle segment and the mess inside the magwell.
With a clip (mag) loaded in. The top dart should be cupped nicely by the brass halfpipe. This protrusion of brass also helps stop darts from popping out the top of clips (mags), something I have experienced before with worn out darts. This prevents top loading, but given the games I play and my playstyle, this is not an issue to me.
I've fired hundreds if not thousands of darts through the brass guide, both Kooshes and FVJs. I've fired lots of my own Kooshes indoors at home for testing, and a lot of FVJs through several Melbourne Nerf events. Once I'd cleaned up all the cuts and in particular removed that bottom lip, darts fed perfectly fine through the brass. Throughout all the events it's been used in so far, I've had maybe 1 or 2 jams.
Comparing my Bullpup RS side-by-side with my RS rifle, also with Worker wheels, I saw two contrasting results. Since my Bullpup RS had Falcons in it at the time, and the RS rifle Blade 180/-3240s, I felt that they were fairly well matched for comparative purposes. Using FVJs, there was no significant difference. FVJs with Worker wheels already have very good grouping at less than half a metre spread at ~8m, and it is largely to them that I attribute the greatly improved effectiveness of my RS's in combat. Using Kooshes however, there was quite a significant difference. My RS rifle would have a fair number of Kooshes go off at fairly wide angles (spreading up to nearly a metre at ~8m range), while my Bullpup RS would keep all of the Kooshes in relatively tight groups, probably around half a metre or less at the same range.
With stock flywheels in my Bullpup, I saw noticeable accuracy improvements over not having a brass guide. However it was probably only a little better than having just Worker flywheels, if not directly comparable. If it's a decision between a brass guide or Worker wheels, then definitely go for the Worker wheels first.
Through several chronograph tests at several different MLF events, I have seen no significant muzzle velocity difference between my Bullpup RS and any other overhauled RS with Worker wheels, without a brass guide. I believe that 19/32" is wide enough to not significantly slow down the dart after it has left the flywheels, compared to 9/16", which I have seen in several builds reduce muzzle velocity noticeably.
Is a brass guide worth doing? If done right and you want the absolute best performance possible then definitely. Accuracy is significantly improved, and the brass also helps stopping darts from popping out of the top of the mags. You may want to consider removing the lower lip, as especially at higher ROF it will cause issues with darts getting stuck, but with that removed, a well cut brass guide should cause no issues. Because of the raw amount of time and effort required to make and install a brass guide, I probably won't be doing another one, but I'm glad that I did one for my Bullpup.
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Review: Nerf Elite Hyperfire (21m Aus grey trigger)
The Hyperfire is one of the more exciting 2016 releases for me. I'm personally not into things like the Mastodon or Khaos, but I love full auto. The Hyperfire presented itself as a replacement for the now hard-to-find Rapidstrike (at least in Australia), and though its extremely high retail price was annoying, still presented great potential. My enthusiasm was blunted substantially when it was revealed/discovered that the Hyperfire uses a conveyor belt feeding mechanism instead of a traditional pusher, but I still wanted to see for myself how it compares to the beloved Rapidstrike.
Fairly standard box art stuff. Something to note is that the background seems a bit more plain than usual, or maybe that's just me.
No paper ties in the Hyperfire box, everything is kept in place with folded cardboard. Note that as far as I can tell, the included 25 drum differs to the older 25 drums simply in front plate and dart pusher colour.
The Hyperfire is an oddly designed blaster. On the one hand, it has a lot of the sharp edges and angles of the Elite styling, yet has a large and completely superfluous large front end. Where most Elite blasters have a modern style to them, the Hyperfire has more of a futuristic, sci-fi look. The front end suggests it's trying to be big and bulky, yet the stock is not particularly big or long.
It's actually somewhat smaller than I expected, which is a good thing, as I expected it to be a horrendously large and clunky pile of plastic.
Oddly, the Hyperfire has only a single tactical rail at the very front, and does not accept barrel extensions. To me this defeats part of the purpose of being in the Elite line, which has such a well established set of attachments. There's definitely space for more tactical rails and a barrel accepting muzzle, so the lack of such is baffling to me, when that attachment modularity is one of Nerf's big draws.
It has 4 sling points, two up front and two at the back of the stock.
The stock contains the Hyperfire's battery tray. It takes 4 D batteries, unlike the Rapidstrike which used 4 C batteries. These batteries add quite a significant weight to the stock, though this does help balance out the blaster.
A closer look at the gigantic front end. This was one of the features I was most dubious about when we got the first pictures, as it looked excessively large and completely unnecessary. Unfortunately, it seems my fears were well founded, as to me this front end distances the Hyperfire further from the already established Elite styling, and adds unnecessary bulk.
While this round part does provide a decent grip, it feels too low to me to be properly comfortable. It's not as low as say the Demolisher, but it's still a lot lower than say a Rapidstrike. A fore end much higher up closer to the muzzle would have been preferable, ideally with a tac rail to use a variety of other foregrips. The entire orange section below the muzzle is completely hollow, so absolutely did not have to be there.
The stock is a decent thumbhole design, with a neat cheek rest piece. I personally find the stock a little too short to be particularly comfortable, but it's definitely usable.
The handle is fairly well designed, being nicely curved and decently roomy. The handguard is a relatively uncommon feature that I personally quite like. It could get a little squishy if your fingers are particularly large, but besides that the handle would have been quite good if not for one annoyance.
It seems Nerf has yet to master how to design a thumbhole stock. The Hyperfire's thumbhole is too close to the battery tray and so the inside of your hand is pressed against the edge of the battery tray. This is particularly annoying and fairly uncomfortable, which is rather a shame because the thumbhole stock and handle look really cool.
The mag release button is on the inside of the handguard. I find it to be one of the better mag releases, as it is easily actuated with your middle finger. Unfortunately, its placement within the handguard means you can't actuate it with your off hand, though that's only really a problem if you're making a bullpup Hyperfire.
A look at the Hyperfire's jam door. It is locked in place by the orange piece on top. If the jam door is unlocked, a switch prevents the Hyperfire from operating. Instead of using a conventional pusher, the Hyperfire uses a conveyor belt housed in the jam door, hence the strange jam door design.
The Hyperfire has all the other locks and safeties you'd expect to see in a flywheeler. This shot also gives a look at the conveyor belt position.
There are two main issues with the jam door. Due to the conveyor belt design, the jam door cannot open very far, and also exposes only a very small aperture. I personally struggle to use the jam door opening to any significant effect on the Hyperfire. On flywheelers this is generally less of an issue as flywheel blasters don't normally jam up that badly. Most flywheeler jams can be cleared just by pulling out the mag.
The second main issue is by far the more serious, and makes the Hyperfire almost unusable out of box. It concerns the aforementioned jam door lock, which also deactivates a safety. If the jam door lock is even slightly out of locked position, the blaster will be completely disabled. This wouldn't be a problem if the lock was fairly stiff, but unfortunately it can be displaced incredibly easily. Changing mags with any sort of force will likely dislodge the lock, as will any significant shaking. In fact, I've witnessed the lock dislodging itself on its own, turning off the blaster after a couple seconds of firing. This problem is so bad that any time I wanted to fire the blaster for longer than 2 seconds, I had to actively hold the lock closed.
This problem does not appear to apply to every Hyperfire, as some of the videos I've seen on it demonstrate no such issue. I believe it is too common to be considered a lemon however, the other Hyperfire I saw at MHvZ had the same problem, and I have heard at least one other report of the same issue.
Being a clip (mag) system blaster, the Hyperfire works with all manner of mags and drums. These are just a selection of the mags and drums it is compatible with. Personally, my favourites are the 15 dart Worker Dmag and the 25 drum aesthetically.
Here's the Hyperfire next to a Stryfe and Rapidstrike, particularly to demonstrate how well (I think) it is scaled. It's large enough to feel like a significant blaster and have reasonable stock length, but small enough to not feel too excessively large. I still think the front end is ridiculous, but besides that the Hyperfire is fairly well scaled.
Finally for performance. How does the Hyperfire stack up to its Elite brethren, particularly in rate of fire?
Operation of the Hyperfire is the same as anny other flywheeler, press the rev trigger to spin up the flywheels then pull the trigger to fire. Because of the lack of cycle control on the conveyor belt, there is no guarantee how long it will take after trigger pull for the first dart to actually fire.
Range for the grey trigger model is nothing special, at full rev darts typically reach 8-10m true flat with good quality new batteries. Naturally range decreases dramatically in rapid fire, down to around 5-6m at a minimum. Unlike the Rapidstrike, the Hyperfire's flywheels don't speed up when firing, so are unable to maintain a constant range. Something worth noting is that the flywheels are set up with active braking - that is when the rev trigger is released, the flywheel motors will brake to a stop, rather than coasting. This is the first flywheeler I've seen that naturally has active braking on the rev trigger. Personally I don't like active braking on flywheels, especially on stock flywheelers which have significant rev time.
Accuracy is perhaps a little better than average, certainly not the worst I've seen, but also not the best. The majority of darts do go through the my testing doorway at ~8m range, but beyond that they can spread out a fair bit.
Rate of fire is the Hyperfire's main selling point, and thankfully is one of the few performances that actually lives up to Nerf's claim. The box claims a ROF of 5 darts per second, and with good batteries, it certainly reaches and exceeds that. Depending on the quality of the batteries, a ROF of 5-6dps is possible out of box.
Unfortunately, the above ROF is only relevant with perfect darts and perfect mags. While a conveyor belt design might seem neat, in practice it is rather flawed. Because of its design, a dart must be at the very top of the mag, right up against the mag lips, and completely horizontal, to feed properly. If not, the conveyor belt will skip it. The conveyor belt will also skip over a dart that is not perfectly round and plump. A dart angled downwards may get pushed forward by the conveyor belt, however unlike every other flywheeler, the Hyperfire doesn't have feed ramps that lead into flywheel cage. Instead, it simply has a closed off round aperture. As such, any downward facing dart that gets pushed forward will jam against the outside of the flywheel cage, causing the conveyor belt to jam up and get damaged, jamming up the entire system.
I have had feed issues with some darts and mags that feed perfectly even in my ~15dps Bullpup RS, so for me those issues are inexcusable.
Let's suppose for a second that you fix the Hyperfire's critical flaws, but don't alter its performance. Being that the Hyperfire's only notably good feature is ROF, it is best suited to a suppressive fire/area saturation blaster. Its ROF is higher than most other stock blasters, and its use of Nerf's clip (mag) system allows fast reloads and very good capacity, as demonstrated by the included 25 drum. I believe that its ROF is ideal as an entry point into full auto. It's fast enough to begin to appreciate what full auto provides, but still slow enough to be controlled with minimal practice. Relatively poor range means that you'll likely be firing a lot of angled shots.
Keep the Hyperfire away from any games where you expect to scavenge, or use non-perfect darts. The aforementioned feeding issues will likely get you into trouble if you have to panic fire some slightly squished or worn out darts. Stay away from any dart missing a chunk out of the back as well.
The Hyperfire can be found for 80-90AUD outside of sales. I got mine on sale for 58AUD from BigW. Even though I got a significant discount, I don't feel that I got that good a deal. The 25 drum is nice, but something like a pair of 18 mags would have been much preferred. However, the deal breaker for me is the unusability of the Hyperfire out of box and in general all the flaws it has over every other flywheeler. There are just too many problems with it, especially in stock form, and though some of them can be fixed very quickly (e.g. the faulty lock), I shouldn't have to fix them in the first place. To me, the Hyperfire just doesn't have enough merit and has too many issues to justify the purchase. Maybe if you can get one quite cheap and intend to mod it, but certainly not at near retail price in stock form. Even if you do intend to mod it, I would recommend a Rapidstrike much more highly.
Power: 3.5/7
Accuracy: 3.5/5
Rate of Fire: 4.5/5
Usability: 1/5
Value for Money: 2/5
Overall: 2.7/5
Personal Rating: 2/5 - there was so much potential for the Hyperfire to be a great blaster, but there are so many things wrong with it, not just out of box but also inherent to the entire system. I'd much rather take a Rapidstrike any day.
Besides the unusual conveyor belt feeding mechanism, the Hyperfire has pretty standard flywheeler internals. A number of switches, a bunch of locks, some weak motors connected to some horrible components like resistors, pathetically thin wires, PTCs, if you've been inside a flywheeler before, you've seen all of this already.
Rather conveniently, with the removal of some internal screws, the Hyperfire shell will split into 3 distinct parts - the main grey shell, the front orange piece and the outer blue shell. Only the grey shell actually contains internals, so for the sake of maintenence and testing, the other parts can be left off. The shell splitting is also very helpful for aesthetic mods.
A close up of the canted flywheels. They aren't on that much of an angle, but it's still enough to cause some issues at higher speeds. Even just rewired and on 2S, I'm getting a lot more helicopter darts than any other blaster I have. When set up with mod motors such as Rhinos/Falcons on 3S, they can helicopter out more than half of the darts fired. This can be fixed by something like a brass dart guide, but the annoying part is that such a mod must be implemented just to make the blaster work properly. No other flywheeler so far has necessitated significant alteration to the flywheel cage to accomodate for effective glass ceiling blasting.
A close up of the belt system. While it is easier to deal with than a pusher, it is also much more heavily limited in ROF, and far less reliable with imperfect darts. Fixing this problem would require complete replacement of the belt itself, which is in itself not an easy thing to do. While it is easier to deal with than a pusher, it is also much more heavily limited.
This is the current state of my Hyperfire, new switches and wires, set up for a LiPo. It works decently well on a 2S, getting nearly 10dps off nominal charge provided the mag perfectly feeds perfect darts. Range is still pretty rubbish though and the flywheels decelerate massively in rapid fire, further reinforcing my belief that at least some grey trigger flywheelers have inferior motors, instead of changing anything else.
A link to the review I posted on BlasterHub: link
Fairly standard box art stuff. Something to note is that the background seems a bit more plain than usual, or maybe that's just me.
No paper ties in the Hyperfire box, everything is kept in place with folded cardboard. Note that as far as I can tell, the included 25 drum differs to the older 25 drums simply in front plate and dart pusher colour.
The Hyperfire is an oddly designed blaster. On the one hand, it has a lot of the sharp edges and angles of the Elite styling, yet has a large and completely superfluous large front end. Where most Elite blasters have a modern style to them, the Hyperfire has more of a futuristic, sci-fi look. The front end suggests it's trying to be big and bulky, yet the stock is not particularly big or long.
It's actually somewhat smaller than I expected, which is a good thing, as I expected it to be a horrendously large and clunky pile of plastic.
Oddly, the Hyperfire has only a single tactical rail at the very front, and does not accept barrel extensions. To me this defeats part of the purpose of being in the Elite line, which has such a well established set of attachments. There's definitely space for more tactical rails and a barrel accepting muzzle, so the lack of such is baffling to me, when that attachment modularity is one of Nerf's big draws.
It has 4 sling points, two up front and two at the back of the stock.
The stock contains the Hyperfire's battery tray. It takes 4 D batteries, unlike the Rapidstrike which used 4 C batteries. These batteries add quite a significant weight to the stock, though this does help balance out the blaster.
A closer look at the gigantic front end. This was one of the features I was most dubious about when we got the first pictures, as it looked excessively large and completely unnecessary. Unfortunately, it seems my fears were well founded, as to me this front end distances the Hyperfire further from the already established Elite styling, and adds unnecessary bulk.
While this round part does provide a decent grip, it feels too low to me to be properly comfortable. It's not as low as say the Demolisher, but it's still a lot lower than say a Rapidstrike. A fore end much higher up closer to the muzzle would have been preferable, ideally with a tac rail to use a variety of other foregrips. The entire orange section below the muzzle is completely hollow, so absolutely did not have to be there.
The stock is a decent thumbhole design, with a neat cheek rest piece. I personally find the stock a little too short to be particularly comfortable, but it's definitely usable.
The handle is fairly well designed, being nicely curved and decently roomy. The handguard is a relatively uncommon feature that I personally quite like. It could get a little squishy if your fingers are particularly large, but besides that the handle would have been quite good if not for one annoyance.
It seems Nerf has yet to master how to design a thumbhole stock. The Hyperfire's thumbhole is too close to the battery tray and so the inside of your hand is pressed against the edge of the battery tray. This is particularly annoying and fairly uncomfortable, which is rather a shame because the thumbhole stock and handle look really cool.
The mag release button is on the inside of the handguard. I find it to be one of the better mag releases, as it is easily actuated with your middle finger. Unfortunately, its placement within the handguard means you can't actuate it with your off hand, though that's only really a problem if you're making a bullpup Hyperfire.
A look at the Hyperfire's jam door. It is locked in place by the orange piece on top. If the jam door is unlocked, a switch prevents the Hyperfire from operating. Instead of using a conventional pusher, the Hyperfire uses a conveyor belt housed in the jam door, hence the strange jam door design.
The Hyperfire has all the other locks and safeties you'd expect to see in a flywheeler. This shot also gives a look at the conveyor belt position.
There are two main issues with the jam door. Due to the conveyor belt design, the jam door cannot open very far, and also exposes only a very small aperture. I personally struggle to use the jam door opening to any significant effect on the Hyperfire. On flywheelers this is generally less of an issue as flywheel blasters don't normally jam up that badly. Most flywheeler jams can be cleared just by pulling out the mag.
The second main issue is by far the more serious, and makes the Hyperfire almost unusable out of box. It concerns the aforementioned jam door lock, which also deactivates a safety. If the jam door lock is even slightly out of locked position, the blaster will be completely disabled. This wouldn't be a problem if the lock was fairly stiff, but unfortunately it can be displaced incredibly easily. Changing mags with any sort of force will likely dislodge the lock, as will any significant shaking. In fact, I've witnessed the lock dislodging itself on its own, turning off the blaster after a couple seconds of firing. This problem is so bad that any time I wanted to fire the blaster for longer than 2 seconds, I had to actively hold the lock closed.
This problem does not appear to apply to every Hyperfire, as some of the videos I've seen on it demonstrate no such issue. I believe it is too common to be considered a lemon however, the other Hyperfire I saw at MHvZ had the same problem, and I have heard at least one other report of the same issue.
Being a clip (mag) system blaster, the Hyperfire works with all manner of mags and drums. These are just a selection of the mags and drums it is compatible with. Personally, my favourites are the 15 dart Worker Dmag and the 25 drum aesthetically.
Here's the Hyperfire next to a Stryfe and Rapidstrike, particularly to demonstrate how well (I think) it is scaled. It's large enough to feel like a significant blaster and have reasonable stock length, but small enough to not feel too excessively large. I still think the front end is ridiculous, but besides that the Hyperfire is fairly well scaled.
Finally for performance. How does the Hyperfire stack up to its Elite brethren, particularly in rate of fire?
Operation of the Hyperfire is the same as anny other flywheeler, press the rev trigger to spin up the flywheels then pull the trigger to fire. Because of the lack of cycle control on the conveyor belt, there is no guarantee how long it will take after trigger pull for the first dart to actually fire.
Range for the grey trigger model is nothing special, at full rev darts typically reach 8-10m true flat with good quality new batteries. Naturally range decreases dramatically in rapid fire, down to around 5-6m at a minimum. Unlike the Rapidstrike, the Hyperfire's flywheels don't speed up when firing, so are unable to maintain a constant range. Something worth noting is that the flywheels are set up with active braking - that is when the rev trigger is released, the flywheel motors will brake to a stop, rather than coasting. This is the first flywheeler I've seen that naturally has active braking on the rev trigger. Personally I don't like active braking on flywheels, especially on stock flywheelers which have significant rev time.
Accuracy is perhaps a little better than average, certainly not the worst I've seen, but also not the best. The majority of darts do go through the my testing doorway at ~8m range, but beyond that they can spread out a fair bit.
Rate of fire is the Hyperfire's main selling point, and thankfully is one of the few performances that actually lives up to Nerf's claim. The box claims a ROF of 5 darts per second, and with good batteries, it certainly reaches and exceeds that. Depending on the quality of the batteries, a ROF of 5-6dps is possible out of box.
Unfortunately, the above ROF is only relevant with perfect darts and perfect mags. While a conveyor belt design might seem neat, in practice it is rather flawed. Because of its design, a dart must be at the very top of the mag, right up against the mag lips, and completely horizontal, to feed properly. If not, the conveyor belt will skip it. The conveyor belt will also skip over a dart that is not perfectly round and plump. A dart angled downwards may get pushed forward by the conveyor belt, however unlike every other flywheeler, the Hyperfire doesn't have feed ramps that lead into flywheel cage. Instead, it simply has a closed off round aperture. As such, any downward facing dart that gets pushed forward will jam against the outside of the flywheel cage, causing the conveyor belt to jam up and get damaged, jamming up the entire system.
I have had feed issues with some darts and mags that feed perfectly even in my ~15dps Bullpup RS, so for me those issues are inexcusable.
Let's suppose for a second that you fix the Hyperfire's critical flaws, but don't alter its performance. Being that the Hyperfire's only notably good feature is ROF, it is best suited to a suppressive fire/area saturation blaster. Its ROF is higher than most other stock blasters, and its use of Nerf's clip (mag) system allows fast reloads and very good capacity, as demonstrated by the included 25 drum. I believe that its ROF is ideal as an entry point into full auto. It's fast enough to begin to appreciate what full auto provides, but still slow enough to be controlled with minimal practice. Relatively poor range means that you'll likely be firing a lot of angled shots.
Keep the Hyperfire away from any games where you expect to scavenge, or use non-perfect darts. The aforementioned feeding issues will likely get you into trouble if you have to panic fire some slightly squished or worn out darts. Stay away from any dart missing a chunk out of the back as well.
The Hyperfire can be found for 80-90AUD outside of sales. I got mine on sale for 58AUD from BigW. Even though I got a significant discount, I don't feel that I got that good a deal. The 25 drum is nice, but something like a pair of 18 mags would have been much preferred. However, the deal breaker for me is the unusability of the Hyperfire out of box and in general all the flaws it has over every other flywheeler. There are just too many problems with it, especially in stock form, and though some of them can be fixed very quickly (e.g. the faulty lock), I shouldn't have to fix them in the first place. To me, the Hyperfire just doesn't have enough merit and has too many issues to justify the purchase. Maybe if you can get one quite cheap and intend to mod it, but certainly not at near retail price in stock form. Even if you do intend to mod it, I would recommend a Rapidstrike much more highly.
Power: 3.5/7
Accuracy: 3.5/5
Rate of Fire: 4.5/5
Usability: 1/5
Value for Money: 2/5
Overall: 2.7/5
Personal Rating: 2/5 - there was so much potential for the Hyperfire to be a great blaster, but there are so many things wrong with it, not just out of box but also inherent to the entire system. I'd much rather take a Rapidstrike any day.
Besides the unusual conveyor belt feeding mechanism, the Hyperfire has pretty standard flywheeler internals. A number of switches, a bunch of locks, some weak motors connected to some horrible components like resistors, pathetically thin wires, PTCs, if you've been inside a flywheeler before, you've seen all of this already.
Rather conveniently, with the removal of some internal screws, the Hyperfire shell will split into 3 distinct parts - the main grey shell, the front orange piece and the outer blue shell. Only the grey shell actually contains internals, so for the sake of maintenence and testing, the other parts can be left off. The shell splitting is also very helpful for aesthetic mods.
A close up of the canted flywheels. They aren't on that much of an angle, but it's still enough to cause some issues at higher speeds. Even just rewired and on 2S, I'm getting a lot more helicopter darts than any other blaster I have. When set up with mod motors such as Rhinos/Falcons on 3S, they can helicopter out more than half of the darts fired. This can be fixed by something like a brass dart guide, but the annoying part is that such a mod must be implemented just to make the blaster work properly. No other flywheeler so far has necessitated significant alteration to the flywheel cage to accomodate for effective glass ceiling blasting.
A close up of the belt system. While it is easier to deal with than a pusher, it is also much more heavily limited in ROF, and far less reliable with imperfect darts. Fixing this problem would require complete replacement of the belt itself, which is in itself not an easy thing to do. While it is easier to deal with than a pusher, it is also much more heavily limited.
This is the current state of my Hyperfire, new switches and wires, set up for a LiPo. It works decently well on a 2S, getting nearly 10dps off nominal charge provided the mag perfectly feeds perfect darts. Range is still pretty rubbish though and the flywheels decelerate massively in rapid fire, further reinforcing my belief that at least some grey trigger flywheelers have inferior motors, instead of changing anything else.
A link to the review I posted on BlasterHub: link
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Review: Gavinfuzzy Retaliator Pump Grip
Probably the biggest flaw holding back the Retaliator is its awkward top slide prime. Not only is it relatively uncomfortable (compared to most preferred priming mechanisms), but it's also a relatively awkward motion and gets in the way of aiming. The solution to this problem is, naturally, to convert the Retaliator to a pump action, and the included barrel piece is a perfect mounting platform. Gavinfuzzy Customs provides one such pump grip.
Installation is relatively straightforward and should be quite intuitive. Gavinfuzzy has a full album on installation here.
Pump installed on my blue Retal. The orange is very close to Nerf orange, not perfect but almost indistinguishable at a glance.
Close up of the pump assembly. I'm not a fan of these shiny chromed metal bars, as I personally don't like the shine, but they do their job well.
The bars connect to the Retal boltsled through these 3D printed parts. They slot onto the metal bars and house the metal connectors that sit in the boltsled holes. The print quality on these parts was a little rough compared to the pump itself, especially at the open end, at which mine had quite rough edges. They're certainly fairly solid, just don't look quite as clean as the pump does.
I did manage to break one of mine, however only through excessively violent actions from frustration with my Retal. Some superglue and JB Weld have fixed it up, though I wouldn't mind slightly longer, thicker endcaps just for insurance.
The pump is a single, large 3D printed piece of plastic. It slides along the bottom tac rail of the Retal barrel smoothly, and no modification is required on the barrel rail. The pump is very solid and quite well printed. Size wise it's decent, I personally wouldn't mind a little more width, but certainly nothing in particular that isn't down to personal preference.
The pump is quite long, certainly long enough to fit all fingers on easily, and the majority of my palm.
My preferred grip has my forefinger on the front of the pump, and this is one of the reasons I like the Gavinfuzzy pump a lot. Most other pumps I've seen (e.g. EAT pump, F10555 shotgun pump) are thin form-fitting/wrap-around grips, and so have no place on the front for fingers. The Gavinfuzzy pump is much more bulky, so has that space, and for me it allows a much more comfortable grip, and a much easier application of backward force.
I have one significant issue with the Gavinfuzzy pump, and that is this back edge. It is sharp and uncomfortable, and in particular digs into my palm. A few minutes with sandpaper solves the sharpness, though I still find it a little uncomfortable.
When primed, there's still a decent distance between the front of the Retal magwell and the back of the grip. This ensures that it causes no issues when using drums, except maybe the huge 35 drum.
Gavinfuzzy sells his Retal pump grips via his Facebook page for 42SGD. Postage to Australia cost me a further 15SGD. Of all the Retal pumps I've tried, this one is definitely my favourite. I don't like vertical pump grips, and I'm not a fan of the angled foregrips that a lot of Melbourne guys use. For me, the Gavinfuzzy pump was the most comfortable of the lot (after sanding down the back edge), and for me is an almost perfect grip. While I'm not a fan of the shiny metal bars, and I think the endcaps could be improved slightly, I'd definitely recommend giving Gavinfuzzy's pump a look if you're in the market for flat shotgun style pumps.
Installation is relatively straightforward and should be quite intuitive. Gavinfuzzy has a full album on installation here.
Pump installed on my blue Retal. The orange is very close to Nerf orange, not perfect but almost indistinguishable at a glance.
Close up of the pump assembly. I'm not a fan of these shiny chromed metal bars, as I personally don't like the shine, but they do their job well.
The bars connect to the Retal boltsled through these 3D printed parts. They slot onto the metal bars and house the metal connectors that sit in the boltsled holes. The print quality on these parts was a little rough compared to the pump itself, especially at the open end, at which mine had quite rough edges. They're certainly fairly solid, just don't look quite as clean as the pump does.
I did manage to break one of mine, however only through excessively violent actions from frustration with my Retal. Some superglue and JB Weld have fixed it up, though I wouldn't mind slightly longer, thicker endcaps just for insurance.
The pump is a single, large 3D printed piece of plastic. It slides along the bottom tac rail of the Retal barrel smoothly, and no modification is required on the barrel rail. The pump is very solid and quite well printed. Size wise it's decent, I personally wouldn't mind a little more width, but certainly nothing in particular that isn't down to personal preference.
The pump is quite long, certainly long enough to fit all fingers on easily, and the majority of my palm.
My preferred grip has my forefinger on the front of the pump, and this is one of the reasons I like the Gavinfuzzy pump a lot. Most other pumps I've seen (e.g. EAT pump, F10555 shotgun pump) are thin form-fitting/wrap-around grips, and so have no place on the front for fingers. The Gavinfuzzy pump is much more bulky, so has that space, and for me it allows a much more comfortable grip, and a much easier application of backward force.
I have one significant issue with the Gavinfuzzy pump, and that is this back edge. It is sharp and uncomfortable, and in particular digs into my palm. A few minutes with sandpaper solves the sharpness, though I still find it a little uncomfortable.
When primed, there's still a decent distance between the front of the Retal magwell and the back of the grip. This ensures that it causes no issues when using drums, except maybe the huge 35 drum.
Gavinfuzzy sells his Retal pump grips via his Facebook page for 42SGD. Postage to Australia cost me a further 15SGD. Of all the Retal pumps I've tried, this one is definitely my favourite. I don't like vertical pump grips, and I'm not a fan of the angled foregrips that a lot of Melbourne guys use. For me, the Gavinfuzzy pump was the most comfortable of the lot (after sanding down the back edge), and for me is an almost perfect grip. While I'm not a fan of the shiny metal bars, and I think the endcaps could be improved slightly, I'd definitely recommend giving Gavinfuzzy's pump a look if you're in the market for flat shotgun style pumps.
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Jase3D: Another Aussie Parts Seller
Jase3D is a relatively new seller of 3D printed parts in Australia. He's produced only a couple of different designs so far, but the ones he has released (that I have seen in person) are all fantastic.
The first one I purchased was his 7 dart Hammershot/Sweet Revenge cylinder. I bought a pair of them for my dual Sweet Revenges in pink.
The pink is very close to Nerf's Rebelle pink, almost indistinguishable unless you take a close look.
A direct front comparison of the 7 dart cylinder (left) and the stock 5 dart cylinder (right). Naturally the 7 barrels are much more tightly packed together in order to fit the extra darts.
My pair of cylinders installed. There are two major differences between Jase3d's cylinders and the standard model from Thingiverse (and in turn most other 7 dart cylinders out there). The first naturally is the styling, the Jase3D cylinder emulates the style of the stock 5 dart cylinder to make it look as stock as possible. The second is that the Jase3D cylinder has been redesigned a number of times, and works perfectly with the AR still in.
I've used these 7 dart cylinders in several events now, and they work perfectly. Performance is about the same as with stock cylinders, and to the untrained eye they look pretty much stock.
Something to note is that while the cylinders are drop in for Hammershots, some slight alteration will be necessary for use in Sweet Revenges. The support arm for the cylinder is much thinner on the Sweet Revenge, necessitating a little cutting down of the front piece. The above picture shows the standard piece on the left, and the modified piece on the right.
The second part is a faux flash hider attachment.
It's a pretty basic piece, effectively just a tube of plastic that uses Nerf's twist lock barrel system. The use of the twist-lock system allows attachment on all blasters that take barrel extensions. This faux flash hider is rather oversized compared to most.
Mine pretty much lives permanently on my Bullpup Rapidstrike, to me it looks absolutely perfect. I like they way it looks on a variety of other blasters, but the Bullpup RS is by far my favourite.
Finally on to 180 motor covers, Jase3D currently offers Rapidstrike and Stryfe motor covers. I believe a Rayven motor cover is in the works as well.
His RS motor cover is easily the best looking of the ones I've seen, and I absolutely had to have it for my Bullpup. The lines and vents, the extra few grey parts that are glued on separately, everything about it looks awesome to me.
The Stryfe motor cover is a very interesting and unique piece. The RS motor cover, like just about every other motor cover I'm aware of, is a piece that simply covers the flat area above the flywheel cage. The Stryfe motor cover however, is a wraparound piece that covers just about every protrusion from the flywheel cage. It's a much larger piece, but is also far easier to fit correctly into place as it has no wiggle room.
The Hammershot/Sweet Revenge cylinders are 18AUD each. The faux flash hider is 13AUD, and the motor covers are 15AUD each. Jase3D also does expanded Stryfe battery tray covers, iron sight pieces and has just released Hyperfire motor covers. These prices are all higher than average (with the exception of maybe the flash hider), you can usually get the Thingiverse 7 dart cylinder for 15AUD or less, while more basic motor covers can be had for about 10AUD or less. Print quality is perhaps not the absolute best around, but it's pretty damn good and easily good enough for these parts. What you're paying extra for is the extra detail and design effort in every one of the parts, the motor covers look awesome and the 7 shot cylinders have been designed to look stock. I would definitely recommend a look at Jase3D's parts if you're in need of such, and would also suggest keeping an eye on them as more products get revealed and released.
The first one I purchased was his 7 dart Hammershot/Sweet Revenge cylinder. I bought a pair of them for my dual Sweet Revenges in pink.
The pink is very close to Nerf's Rebelle pink, almost indistinguishable unless you take a close look.
A direct front comparison of the 7 dart cylinder (left) and the stock 5 dart cylinder (right). Naturally the 7 barrels are much more tightly packed together in order to fit the extra darts.
My pair of cylinders installed. There are two major differences between Jase3d's cylinders and the standard model from Thingiverse (and in turn most other 7 dart cylinders out there). The first naturally is the styling, the Jase3D cylinder emulates the style of the stock 5 dart cylinder to make it look as stock as possible. The second is that the Jase3D cylinder has been redesigned a number of times, and works perfectly with the AR still in.
I've used these 7 dart cylinders in several events now, and they work perfectly. Performance is about the same as with stock cylinders, and to the untrained eye they look pretty much stock.
Something to note is that while the cylinders are drop in for Hammershots, some slight alteration will be necessary for use in Sweet Revenges. The support arm for the cylinder is much thinner on the Sweet Revenge, necessitating a little cutting down of the front piece. The above picture shows the standard piece on the left, and the modified piece on the right.
The second part is a faux flash hider attachment.
It's a pretty basic piece, effectively just a tube of plastic that uses Nerf's twist lock barrel system. The use of the twist-lock system allows attachment on all blasters that take barrel extensions. This faux flash hider is rather oversized compared to most.
Mine pretty much lives permanently on my Bullpup Rapidstrike, to me it looks absolutely perfect. I like they way it looks on a variety of other blasters, but the Bullpup RS is by far my favourite.
Finally on to 180 motor covers, Jase3D currently offers Rapidstrike and Stryfe motor covers. I believe a Rayven motor cover is in the works as well.
His RS motor cover is easily the best looking of the ones I've seen, and I absolutely had to have it for my Bullpup. The lines and vents, the extra few grey parts that are glued on separately, everything about it looks awesome to me.
The Stryfe motor cover is a very interesting and unique piece. The RS motor cover, like just about every other motor cover I'm aware of, is a piece that simply covers the flat area above the flywheel cage. The Stryfe motor cover however, is a wraparound piece that covers just about every protrusion from the flywheel cage. It's a much larger piece, but is also far easier to fit correctly into place as it has no wiggle room.
The Hammershot/Sweet Revenge cylinders are 18AUD each. The faux flash hider is 13AUD, and the motor covers are 15AUD each. Jase3D also does expanded Stryfe battery tray covers, iron sight pieces and has just released Hyperfire motor covers. These prices are all higher than average (with the exception of maybe the flash hider), you can usually get the Thingiverse 7 dart cylinder for 15AUD or less, while more basic motor covers can be had for about 10AUD or less. Print quality is perhaps not the absolute best around, but it's pretty damn good and easily good enough for these parts. What you're paying extra for is the extra detail and design effort in every one of the parts, the motor covers look awesome and the 7 shot cylinders have been designed to look stock. I would definitely recommend a look at Jase3D's parts if you're in need of such, and would also suggest keeping an eye on them as more products get revealed and released.
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Review: Buzz Bee Destiny (18m/60ft EU)
The Buzz Bee Destiny is one of Buzz Bee's most exciting releases this year. It offers a return to good old air powered rapid fire, a system used by the Nerf Magstrike and BoomCo Rapid Madness, both of which have a significant number of fans. How does Buzz Bee's foray into this tech compare, and how does it stack up in the modern world of blasters?
Disclosure: This blaster was sent to me by Buzz Bee Toys for review. I would like to thank them for their contribution, however note that it will not bias the review in any way.
The box is pretty standard Buzz Bee fare, open style with most bits secured by cable ties.
The Destiny is a large, blocky blaster in typical Buzz Bee style. It doesn't look particularly sophisticated, and has limited shell detailing. It's particularly wide, and a lot of the surfaces are very shiny and smooth, contributing to the cheap look. Buzz Bee's plastic quality is certainly getting better, the Destiny's plastic is certainly much less "creaky" and flexible than previous Buzz Bee blasters, but still not quite Nerf quality.
Being that the handle is at the very back, the Destiny also feels quite unbalanced. Though it is not especially heavy, it still feels a little awkward to handle, certainly more so than most Nerf blasters.
The Destiny is a very large blaster, pictured here next to a Hyperfire. This sheer size is necessary for containing all the internals, but it could have been designed to be much more ergonomic. The Rapid Madness' design in particular is a good setup, since its primary weight is above or behind the handle, and it has a decently sized stock. Moving the trigger to the front handle would certainly improve balance and handling significantly.
Here's a close up of the "fiesta" texture. It does look a bit ridiculous and only adds to the cheap feel and further distances Buzz Bee's aesthetics from Nerf. Buzz Bee have said that future batches will have a "carbon fibre" texture, but the first batches to hit retail will still have the "fiesta" texture.
The Destiny is an air powered blaster, so has a pump on the bottom. It's quite a long stroke, about 20cm or so. A double action pump would have been nice for reducing pump count, but as seen with the Rapid Madness, also makes pumping a lot harder.
The pump handle is fairly small. It's comfortable enough for me, but could be a problem if you have large hands. The pump also freely rotates around.
The handle is decently sized, though again could be a little bigger. My hand fits on it comfortably, but there's not much wiggle room. The one handle complain I do have is the extrusion on the back, in the middle of the handle. It's a significant protrusion and is rather uncomfortable, you can see it digging into my hand in the above picture.
A close look at the Destiny's clipwell. There are several pieces of note. Firstly, the small orange piece at the back of the clipwell. This piece stops the clip from being inserted any further inwards, and lines up the first dart nicely for firing. It retracts when the trigger is pulled to allow the clip to advance, and is held back by the clip after firing the first dart. Also take note of the series of bumps along the channel in the clipwell. These are spring loaded to help keep the clip in place, both during firing and between bursts.
This button is something that was featured on the Rapid Madness. It is labelled as a "jam release" button, and vents the air from the firing chamber. This has a two-fold function. Firstly, the firing mechanism is reset to rest, which allows the clip to be moved freely. Second, by releasing the remaining air in the firing mech, the blaster also cannot autonomously fire after use. This problem occurs when the blaster is fully fired, and the firing chamber partially fills with air. Due to the nature of the system, the blaster is capable of suddenly and randomly firing once with the residual air. Venting the firing chamber naturally eliminates this problem.
The Destiny uses a unique 20 dart clip reminiscent of the Magstrike's clip, as well as BoomCo clips. The top of the clip has arrows showing which way to insert it, and ridges to align in correctly. Note the small cutout at the back of the clip. What this does is catches on the aforementioned small orange piece in the clipwell, preventing the clip from dropping out after being emptied if the trigger is released. This is a useful feature for not dropping the clip after firing, that is also easily bypassed if desired by simply holding the trigger down.
Like with the clips used by the Magstrike and BoomCo lines, the Destiny's clip uses a doublestack design. This allows it to be a lot shorter, but naturally a lot wider. The necessity for full barrels for each dart makes the clip a lot bulkier.
Here's the clip next to an 18 dart Nerf mag. Despite the higher capacity, the doublestack design allows it to be shorter, though is substantially bulkier otherwise. If Nerf darts weren't so squishy, doublestack mags would be something interesting to consider and develop.
Given that the clip is still quite long and the Destiny has a side clipwell, a fully loaded Destiny is quite large. The general bulk of the blaster itself plus the width of the clip can make it a little difficult to handle. Having a sideways clipwell can be helpful for a clip blaster however. Some of the Magstrike's problems stemmed from its vertical clip design. It prevented the use of clips larger than 10 darts, and had a tendency for partially fired clips to slip downwards. Furthermore, some Magstrikes struggled to advance past the first dart unless held sideways. Although a sideways clip is rather clunky, especially with a high capacity, the Destiny solves the Magstrike's aforementioned issues very well.
Finally for performance. How well does the air powered Destiny fare in a blaster world primarily filled with springers and flywheelers?
To fire off all 20 darts, the Destiny needs a minimum of around 15 full pumps. More will not improve performance significantly, but provides good insurance against air loss. A conservative rule of thumb for on-the-fly pumping is 1 pump per dart, besides the first shot which will require 2. The OPRV on the bladder will kick in at about 20 full pumps. Since the blaster is full auto, once it is pumped up, simply pull the trigger and watch darts fly out.
Range is decent, though not exceptional. With the included Ultra Tek darts I was averaging about 10-12m ranges. About average among Nerf's (grey trigger) Elite blasters, though significantly below anything at orange trigger level, in particular many of Buzz Bee's other Ultra Tek offerings. Range is rather inconsistent with the Destiny though, one shot may soar to 13m, the next might drop to 8m. The variance in range is pretty large compared to most other blasters I've used.
Muzzle velocity with light blue FVJs averages somewhere between 50-55fps, which is close to (maybe a little more than) the muzzle velocity of grey trigger Elite blasters.
Shot accuracy is quite poor. Even at just ~8m, I was getting a spread around a metre wide. Using my standard testing doorway at ~8m distance, somewhere between a quarter and a third of darts fired didn't pass through the doorway.
Rate of fire though, oh my. Both the Magstrike and Rapid Madness are extremely impressive, capable of around 10 darts per second with a good amount of air. The Destiny though, at full pressure, can belt out 15-20 darts per second - easily living up to its "20 darts in 2 seconds" box claim. ROF can be highly variable, particularly depending on how much the blaster is pumped. Such a high ROF from a stock blaster is unheard of, and is extremely impressive.
Such a high ROF does have a significant downside though. The trigger response on the Destiny is not very good, so the smallest burst that can be reliably fired is about 3 darts. 2 dart bursts are possible, but not consistently achievable. Single shots are almost impossible, and pretty much impossible in combat conditions. With an entire clip of 20 darts, the most single shots I've gotten from one clip is about 3, and the rest became 2 or 3 dart bursts.
The Destiny serves much the same role as the Nerf Magstrike did, an empty-and-drop blaster, given that they are both air blasters and have ludicrously high ROF for stock blasters. Given how quickly it dumps its load, and how much pumping is required to full it up again, a lot of the time it simply isn't practical to reload in the middle of a game. Whether Buzz Bee will be selling extra clips separately remains to be seen, and will significantly affect its general use viability as cheap spare clips are one of the big advantages of the Rapid Madness. The Destiny is excellent for situations where you simply have to dump a heap of foam in a particular area/direction as quickly as possible. The raw amount of foam it puts out is ideal for room/area clearing and area denial. Its highly variable range, poor accuracy and fire control naturally make it very poor for regular cover-to-cover potshots. In the world of modded blasters, the Destiny faces stiff opposition from high speed Rapidstrike builds, which can put out a load of foam almost as quickly, has a more modular (and generally better) magazine system and doesn't need to be pumped up. For players who dislike flywheels though, the Destiny is the best modern foam firing blaster for raw dart output.
The Destiny should be available soon for 25USD in the US, which is pretty good value. The Nerf Magstrike retailed for around ~20USD when it was still available, and the BoomCo Rapid Madness started off at a very high 50USD. No blaster in that price range offers anywhere near the Destiny's raw foam output potential. Yes there are more sophisticated, accurate and powerful blasters in that range, but for raw fun factor the Destiny is easily one of the top blasters out there. The insane ROF and the awesome sound can give just about anyone a big smile, and that alone makes it a great blaster.
Power: 5/7
Accuracy: 2/5
Rate of Fire: 5/5
Usability: 3.5/5
Value for Money: 5/5
Overall: 3.81/5
Personal Rating: 4/5 - although pumping is annoying and the ergonomics are not great, it's just impossible to argue with 20 darts in around a second. Even with my significant experience with modded Rapidstrikes, the Destiny brings a smile to my face every time I fire it, and that in itself makes it worth purchasing.
Internally, as I suspected, the Destiny is extremely similar to the Magstrike. Its firing mech is a hybrid springer and air blaster system designed for high ROF and (relatively) low range. The one significant difference is the addition of the side valve, which allows venting of the air from the firing chamber.
The Destiny uses a rubber bladder that's essentially the same as the Magstrike's. It even has a release valve on the back of it like the Magstrike.
Mod potential for the Destiny is not so much about performance as it is about improving generally usability. Cutting down the OPRV on the tank would increase air capacity, though ensure you don't cut off too much, otherwise it won't actuate at all. The most significant mod I can think of though is hooking the Destiny up to a HPA/LPA system so as to completely eliminate the need to pump, and would likely also boost ROF. That, combined with a heap of spare clips, would give essentially the same advantages as a high speed Rapidstrike build without being flywheel.
A link to the review I posted on BlasterHub: link
Disclosure: This blaster was sent to me by Buzz Bee Toys for review. I would like to thank them for their contribution, however note that it will not bias the review in any way.
The box is pretty standard Buzz Bee fare, open style with most bits secured by cable ties.
The Destiny is a large, blocky blaster in typical Buzz Bee style. It doesn't look particularly sophisticated, and has limited shell detailing. It's particularly wide, and a lot of the surfaces are very shiny and smooth, contributing to the cheap look. Buzz Bee's plastic quality is certainly getting better, the Destiny's plastic is certainly much less "creaky" and flexible than previous Buzz Bee blasters, but still not quite Nerf quality.
Being that the handle is at the very back, the Destiny also feels quite unbalanced. Though it is not especially heavy, it still feels a little awkward to handle, certainly more so than most Nerf blasters.
The Destiny is a very large blaster, pictured here next to a Hyperfire. This sheer size is necessary for containing all the internals, but it could have been designed to be much more ergonomic. The Rapid Madness' design in particular is a good setup, since its primary weight is above or behind the handle, and it has a decently sized stock. Moving the trigger to the front handle would certainly improve balance and handling significantly.
Here's a close up of the "fiesta" texture. It does look a bit ridiculous and only adds to the cheap feel and further distances Buzz Bee's aesthetics from Nerf. Buzz Bee have said that future batches will have a "carbon fibre" texture, but the first batches to hit retail will still have the "fiesta" texture.
The Destiny is an air powered blaster, so has a pump on the bottom. It's quite a long stroke, about 20cm or so. A double action pump would have been nice for reducing pump count, but as seen with the Rapid Madness, also makes pumping a lot harder.
The pump handle is fairly small. It's comfortable enough for me, but could be a problem if you have large hands. The pump also freely rotates around.
The handle is decently sized, though again could be a little bigger. My hand fits on it comfortably, but there's not much wiggle room. The one handle complain I do have is the extrusion on the back, in the middle of the handle. It's a significant protrusion and is rather uncomfortable, you can see it digging into my hand in the above picture.
A close look at the Destiny's clipwell. There are several pieces of note. Firstly, the small orange piece at the back of the clipwell. This piece stops the clip from being inserted any further inwards, and lines up the first dart nicely for firing. It retracts when the trigger is pulled to allow the clip to advance, and is held back by the clip after firing the first dart. Also take note of the series of bumps along the channel in the clipwell. These are spring loaded to help keep the clip in place, both during firing and between bursts.
This button is something that was featured on the Rapid Madness. It is labelled as a "jam release" button, and vents the air from the firing chamber. This has a two-fold function. Firstly, the firing mechanism is reset to rest, which allows the clip to be moved freely. Second, by releasing the remaining air in the firing mech, the blaster also cannot autonomously fire after use. This problem occurs when the blaster is fully fired, and the firing chamber partially fills with air. Due to the nature of the system, the blaster is capable of suddenly and randomly firing once with the residual air. Venting the firing chamber naturally eliminates this problem.
The Destiny uses a unique 20 dart clip reminiscent of the Magstrike's clip, as well as BoomCo clips. The top of the clip has arrows showing which way to insert it, and ridges to align in correctly. Note the small cutout at the back of the clip. What this does is catches on the aforementioned small orange piece in the clipwell, preventing the clip from dropping out after being emptied if the trigger is released. This is a useful feature for not dropping the clip after firing, that is also easily bypassed if desired by simply holding the trigger down.
Like with the clips used by the Magstrike and BoomCo lines, the Destiny's clip uses a doublestack design. This allows it to be a lot shorter, but naturally a lot wider. The necessity for full barrels for each dart makes the clip a lot bulkier.
Here's the clip next to an 18 dart Nerf mag. Despite the higher capacity, the doublestack design allows it to be shorter, though is substantially bulkier otherwise. If Nerf darts weren't so squishy, doublestack mags would be something interesting to consider and develop.
Given that the clip is still quite long and the Destiny has a side clipwell, a fully loaded Destiny is quite large. The general bulk of the blaster itself plus the width of the clip can make it a little difficult to handle. Having a sideways clipwell can be helpful for a clip blaster however. Some of the Magstrike's problems stemmed from its vertical clip design. It prevented the use of clips larger than 10 darts, and had a tendency for partially fired clips to slip downwards. Furthermore, some Magstrikes struggled to advance past the first dart unless held sideways. Although a sideways clip is rather clunky, especially with a high capacity, the Destiny solves the Magstrike's aforementioned issues very well.
Finally for performance. How well does the air powered Destiny fare in a blaster world primarily filled with springers and flywheelers?
To fire off all 20 darts, the Destiny needs a minimum of around 15 full pumps. More will not improve performance significantly, but provides good insurance against air loss. A conservative rule of thumb for on-the-fly pumping is 1 pump per dart, besides the first shot which will require 2. The OPRV on the bladder will kick in at about 20 full pumps. Since the blaster is full auto, once it is pumped up, simply pull the trigger and watch darts fly out.
Range is decent, though not exceptional. With the included Ultra Tek darts I was averaging about 10-12m ranges. About average among Nerf's (grey trigger) Elite blasters, though significantly below anything at orange trigger level, in particular many of Buzz Bee's other Ultra Tek offerings. Range is rather inconsistent with the Destiny though, one shot may soar to 13m, the next might drop to 8m. The variance in range is pretty large compared to most other blasters I've used.
Muzzle velocity with light blue FVJs averages somewhere between 50-55fps, which is close to (maybe a little more than) the muzzle velocity of grey trigger Elite blasters.
Shot accuracy is quite poor. Even at just ~8m, I was getting a spread around a metre wide. Using my standard testing doorway at ~8m distance, somewhere between a quarter and a third of darts fired didn't pass through the doorway.
Rate of fire though, oh my. Both the Magstrike and Rapid Madness are extremely impressive, capable of around 10 darts per second with a good amount of air. The Destiny though, at full pressure, can belt out 15-20 darts per second - easily living up to its "20 darts in 2 seconds" box claim. ROF can be highly variable, particularly depending on how much the blaster is pumped. Such a high ROF from a stock blaster is unheard of, and is extremely impressive.
Such a high ROF does have a significant downside though. The trigger response on the Destiny is not very good, so the smallest burst that can be reliably fired is about 3 darts. 2 dart bursts are possible, but not consistently achievable. Single shots are almost impossible, and pretty much impossible in combat conditions. With an entire clip of 20 darts, the most single shots I've gotten from one clip is about 3, and the rest became 2 or 3 dart bursts.
The Destiny serves much the same role as the Nerf Magstrike did, an empty-and-drop blaster, given that they are both air blasters and have ludicrously high ROF for stock blasters. Given how quickly it dumps its load, and how much pumping is required to full it up again, a lot of the time it simply isn't practical to reload in the middle of a game. Whether Buzz Bee will be selling extra clips separately remains to be seen, and will significantly affect its general use viability as cheap spare clips are one of the big advantages of the Rapid Madness. The Destiny is excellent for situations where you simply have to dump a heap of foam in a particular area/direction as quickly as possible. The raw amount of foam it puts out is ideal for room/area clearing and area denial. Its highly variable range, poor accuracy and fire control naturally make it very poor for regular cover-to-cover potshots. In the world of modded blasters, the Destiny faces stiff opposition from high speed Rapidstrike builds, which can put out a load of foam almost as quickly, has a more modular (and generally better) magazine system and doesn't need to be pumped up. For players who dislike flywheels though, the Destiny is the best modern foam firing blaster for raw dart output.
The Destiny should be available soon for 25USD in the US, which is pretty good value. The Nerf Magstrike retailed for around ~20USD when it was still available, and the BoomCo Rapid Madness started off at a very high 50USD. No blaster in that price range offers anywhere near the Destiny's raw foam output potential. Yes there are more sophisticated, accurate and powerful blasters in that range, but for raw fun factor the Destiny is easily one of the top blasters out there. The insane ROF and the awesome sound can give just about anyone a big smile, and that alone makes it a great blaster.
Power: 5/7
Accuracy: 2/5
Rate of Fire: 5/5
Usability: 3.5/5
Value for Money: 5/5
Overall: 3.81/5
Personal Rating: 4/5 - although pumping is annoying and the ergonomics are not great, it's just impossible to argue with 20 darts in around a second. Even with my significant experience with modded Rapidstrikes, the Destiny brings a smile to my face every time I fire it, and that in itself makes it worth purchasing.
Internally, as I suspected, the Destiny is extremely similar to the Magstrike. Its firing mech is a hybrid springer and air blaster system designed for high ROF and (relatively) low range. The one significant difference is the addition of the side valve, which allows venting of the air from the firing chamber.
The Destiny uses a rubber bladder that's essentially the same as the Magstrike's. It even has a release valve on the back of it like the Magstrike.
Mod potential for the Destiny is not so much about performance as it is about improving generally usability. Cutting down the OPRV on the tank would increase air capacity, though ensure you don't cut off too much, otherwise it won't actuate at all. The most significant mod I can think of though is hooking the Destiny up to a HPA/LPA system so as to completely eliminate the need to pump, and would likely also boost ROF. That, combined with a heap of spare clips, would give essentially the same advantages as a high speed Rapidstrike build without being flywheel.
A link to the review I posted on BlasterHub: link
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